C'est le problème!

Thanks for your explanation, I didn't mean to be over-critical. I worked as a Tool and Diemaker for 25 years, was happy when I got within .001, surprized to get below that. Dimensions were give plus or minus .002, the tightest they ever came. I understand (microns???) your efforts, congratulate you on your presumed success.
 
I have a 3-4" Mitutoyo disc mic to solve this problem. If I could afford it I'd have the next 2 bigger ones, but alas!
 
Janderso said:
Click to expand...

Tom,
What car is in your Avatar?

Neil said
Click to expand...
53 Studebaker commander.

Yes, 1953 Studebaker Commander 5 passenger coupe, No. 1008 body, built in Mar, 1953. It came equiped with a 232 cu in overhead valve V8 engine and 3 speed overdrive transmission, two barrel carb. Still so equipped. It weighs about 3200 lbs, gets 24 MPG and goes like a scared rabbit. I bougth it Jan 6, 1959, or '58, not sure, restored in in 2000-2002, and haven't driven it in two years.
 
Shars has their 2"-3" "Aventor" brand micrometer for a bit over $100USD. Harbor Freight has a 3-micrometer set for far less than that. Being you're across the pond that probably isn't an option but there probably is an equivalent to be had.

To keep up with my moniker, I offer another option -- get yourself a micrometer head (Shars has one with .0001" graduations for about $20) and make a body to hold it. It appears you are interested in relative measurements so you don't need a tool with absolute accuracy. It doesn't need to look like a "real" micrometer, either....
 
homebrewed said:
Shars has their 2"-3" "Aventor" brand micrometer for a bit over $100USD. Harbor Freight has a 3-micrometer set for far less than that. Being you're across the pond that probably isn't an option but there probably is an equivalent to be had.

To keep up with my moniker, I offer another option -- get yourself a micrometer head (Shars has one with .0001" graduations for about $20) and make a body to hold it. It appears you are interested in relative measurements so you don't need a tool with absolute accuracy. It doesn't need to look like a "real" micrometer, either....
Click to expand...
I have considered a using a modified C-Clamp, butchered to mount a straight plunger type dial indicator.
I happen to have a nice "tenths" John Bull brand large face DTI that could go in there.
OR..
Cut and file a chunk of aluminium in a square-off U-Shape with a DTI mount hole + grub screw in one end.
OR ..
Space a couple of 123-blocks with some threaded studding rod, spaced apart, with DTI clamped up on it somehow..

I am unsure about Shars, and import arrangements into UK. I know the whole supply thing was upset somewhat by COVID consequences, but the underlying mess it masked was about Brexit. Right now, the dysfunctional nature of whatever customs and related bureaucracy was supposed to replace previous European import setups is pretty much scandalous, and is now kinda obvious to everybody, and making it into the news.

I know it's lazy, but I know if I see a price on Amazon, or Banggood, or eBay, then that's the price I pay, and it comes to my door. I notice McMaster Carr do sell into UK, but they seem expensive to me. Harbor Freight does not have a UK presence (I don't think). I have found a cheapo 3-micrometer set in tenths (eBay) that looks like it will do it. It happens to be in inches units.

My best stuff is metric, to 1/1000 mm which is about 39.4 millionths inches. I have not yet needed to use any of it fully to such a limit, but I do like that the Mitutoyos check out against gauge blocks absolutely accurately every time!
 
graham-xrf said:
I have considered a using a modified C-Clamp, butchered to mount a straight plunger type dial indicator.
I happen to have a nice "tenths" John Bull brand large face DTI that could go in there.
OR..
Cut and file a chunk of aluminium in a square-off U-Shape with a DTI mount hole + grub screw in one end.
OR ..
Space a couple of 123-blocks with some threaded studding rod, spaced apart, with DTI clamped up on it somehow..

I am unsure about Shars, and import arrangements into UK. I know the whole supply thing was upset somewhat by COVID consequences, but the underlying mess it masked was about Brexit. Right now, the dysfunctional nature of whatever customs and related bureaucracy was supposed to replace previous European import setups is pretty much scandalous, and is now kinda obvious to everybody, and making it into the news.

I know it's lazy, but I know if I see a price on Amazon, or Banggood, or eBay, then that's the price I pay, and it comes to my door. I notice McMaster Carr do sell into UK, but they seem expensive to me. Harbor Freight does not have a UK presence (I don't think). I have found a cheapo 3-micrometer set in tenths (eBay) that looks like it will do it. It happens to be in inches units.

My best stuff is metric, to 1/1000 mm which is about 39.4 millionths inches. I have not yet needed to use any of it fully to such a limit, but I do like that the Mitutoyos check out against gauge blocks absolutely accurately every time!
Click to expand...
It's always nice to have good metrology at hand :) But your DTI notion is a good one in that list of alternatives.

It's always tempting to put more bells and whistles on the get-er-dun thingie you're making, but that usually puts it into more of a get-er-dun-later thingie. Sigh. Sort of like my own "simple" lathe rebuild.....not done yet!
 
Transfer via caliper.

Calipers have inside and outside measurement ability.

Place calipers on to measure distance and use a 123 block to guide square.

If you need more precise measurement lock calipers and then place your mic across the opposite jas for inside measurement.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top