Cast Iron while its out for repair should I redo this braze?

If you do need to redo the braze/weld you could insert 2 dowels in the thicker area which would help in the alignment and also add strength to the joint.
 
Knowing some of the properties of cast iron , do you want to risk it , to mill out through the braze your losing an inch of length +- , I would smooth out lumps on the braze and repaint. Once it's painted no one will notice eventually you'll even forget it's been repaired. But it's up to you if it bugs you bad enough to get rebrazed , why not make a new one . Straight forward machining , cost of materials I bet less then the braze up. , good luck with the repair.
 
Whatever the material is that welded it, it's pretty hard. 2 flute didn't like cutting it. had to use a 4 flute, and even that didn't like it. Didn't feel like pulling out a carbide end mill for this.

So I started working on this a little more now that I have time. The weld is not aligned dead flat. the end drops down. So I started fly cutting the casting to level it. I've reached the max I want to go that way, still 25 thou out. I will take some off the mating part. I had to shim it to keep the chatter down to a minimum. It chattered a little because of the interrupted cut across the slot and distance unsupported from the flat to the supported shim.

I found that the other pieces of this taper attachment are not well made. This is not a southbend taper attach. it has to be a knock off. The part that attaches to the ways is not cut for the ways well. it wants to drop the taper too low and away, and force it out of alignment. Considering having it weld filled, or filling it with epoxy and re-cuting the Vee. pics to follow
 
Did it all fall down and break at some point, maybe forklift damage, should be able to make it right .
 
I have seen a lot of different rod alloy types that were said to be the latest, greatest and the last word in welding up cast iron. A couple of friend fool with a lot of old tractors. Carburetor sand exhaust manifolds were always sought after parts. They came up with some kind of rod that would weld about anything and do a pretty decent job. It looked like brazing rod, but after welding the stuff got real hard.
It also flowed into the pores of the cast iron way more than any brazing rod I ever saw.
As mentioned the brass will have to be ground out in order for the nickel rod to do a good job.

If all the parts are there and it is a knock off of what you are after, looks like a good pattern for a new build.
Jeff
 
2 plans of attack.

One...If not correct then look for correct one...

Two...take this one to a mill and on the bottom side cut a pair of slots lengthwise through the break and either epoxy or braze in a suitable brace that just fits into the slots.

Maybe cross drill and tap in some roll pins.

These things simply hold it in place and the forces are not cross to the unit so it will hold up fine.

Once this is all done time for "body and fender" work.

File or grind off the high spots and use body filler to return it to shape.

Cover work on bottom and fill all holes then paint.

It will look as good as you make it and will work just fine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
dlane said:
Did it all fall down and break at some point, maybe forklift damage, should be able to make it right .
Click to expand...
no idea, I bought it that way.
I don't want to crack it at this point. I've decided to live with the current weld. Hence the fly cutting to straighten it out.
The epoxy fill would be the V for the holder that holds the ways. I think I am going to use plumbing epoxy (the hard stuff you knead to mix) I'll put a coat of wax on the ways, and also cover with saran or wax paper then stuff the vee and lock it down, holding it in position so it doesn't slip down like it wants. Then if necessary I'll machine it.
That way I get close to begin with. I'll put a registration mark on both sides and take measurements just in case I have to go full bore machine it.
 
jsh said:
They came up with some kind of rod that would weld about anything and do a pretty decent job. It looked like brazing rod, but after welding the stuff got real hard.It also flowed into the pores of the cast iron way more than any brazing rod I ever saw.
Click to expand...

....and this product was what?
You can't torture us with that description and then not tell! :cry:
-brino
 
it's a taper attachment that I should not have bought from the seller. It's just got so many issues. I just spent all night working out the problem with the way holder not being aligned correctly. Some plumber epoxy helped Still not perfect, but now it's close to lining up on it's own.
 
Brino, I first saw this stuff at a farm show in the mid 80's. I thought it was some snake oil sales type stuff. Then a large metal shop had some in stock.
My boss at that time bought some, seems like it was several dollars for each rod. We welded up a exhaust manifold on a piece of equipment, while it was bolted to the head. Later that year after it had been used just patched up all season we took it off and welded up the rest of the crack. It was gouged out and cleaned up good of coarse.
It looked like brazing rod,yet it seemed like it would spark a little when hit with a grinder.
If I can find out what it was I will reply.
Jeff
 
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