Braze Or Nickle Rod?

This may seem like a silly question but what does one actually use an anvil for in the year 2015?

For me:
-using my letter stamps to mark things
-knocking out pins thru the pritchel hole (the round one)
-dies in the hardy hole (the square one) for forming metal bits over with a hammer
-using bending forks in the hardy hole
-forming various curves over the anvil horn

I use a homemade propane burner forge for heating the metal first.
-brino
 
Brino, I like the idea of using the anvil as a spacer for the press. I'm also working on building an anvil from a 12.5" section of mainline rail. The HF POS could still be used for its hardie hole and do double duty in the press.

I have Bealer's The Art of Blacksmithing, but it doesn't get into modern blacksmithing like the book you suggest (which I might purchase). When Bealer wrote the book in 1975, blacksmithing was pretty much a dead occupation/pastime and probably anvils were really inexpensive. These days everyone seems to be into blacksmithing and if you don't have much money, you use a rail. Otherwise anvils cost over $1k (they started making them again, but in 1975 there were no U.S. manufacturers).

Anyway, I'll save all of your replies if I do decide to affix the top to the POS.

The HF POS could always be used someday to "blow the anvil." It's a medieval tradition that Bealer describes in the book.

BTW, I might also use the HF horn to do shaping, once I grind it into proper shape. LOL, but I can envision the horn breaking off with a solid blow
 
I'm not a blacksmith. I couldn't do it as my right shoulder support lifting a hammer for more than a dozen repetitions.
I've got a couple of short length or railroad tie, they work very different than a real anvil.
Similarly the anvil shaped objects are different.
Can anyone explain in metallurgical terms what the differences are?

Daryl
MN
 
How about bolting the steel plate to the anvil. Clamp the plate to the anvil, drill the tap holes through the plate/anvil so they'll line up. Drill/countersink clearance holes in the plate, tap the anvil holes. Maybe 1/2 x 13 or 3/8 x 16 flat head cap screws in 4 spots? It'd let you replace/resurface the steel plate without carrying the anvil around. Cast iron treads really well.

Bruce
 
How about bolting the steel plate to the anvil. Clamp the plate to the anvil, drill the tap holes through the plate/anvil so they'll line up. Drill/countersink clearance holes in the plate, tap the anvil holes. Maybe 1/2 x 13 or 3/8 x 16 flat head cap screws in 4 spots? It'd let you replace/resurface the steel plate without carrying the anvil around. Cast iron treads really well.

Bruce
Worth a try, I suppose, but I think that you will find that the shock wave from a hammer blow will not be efficiently transmitted to the iron. The plate will rebound slightly from the interface, giving a very different "feel". You would certainly need to get both surfaces very flat, possibly with a very, very slight dome on one of them. [Edit] Perhaps use countersunk socket head cap screws and grind them off flush.

How about furnace brazing the plate on? [Edit] Coat the face of the cast iron with a paste of brazing metal and flux. Choose a brazing alloy with a relatively low melting point. You could combine this with the screw method for extra security but I doubt that you could break a full-face braze by hammering.
 
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Some people can get along with a cast iron anvil (made in China). The other folks will give you the raised nose treatment and with some good reason. I would just use your anvil the way it is. You will spend a lot of torch gas and time and with unknown results. Then down the road, keep an eye out for a real anvil and replace the cast iron thing. And if you ever decide to sell the real anvil, it will have held its value. Whereas the cast iron one will just be cast iron scrap price…Dave.
 
I'm not a blacksmith. I couldn't do it as my right shoulder support lifting a hammer for more than a dozen repetitions.
I've got a couple of short length or railroad tie, they work very different than a real anvil.
Similarly the anvil shaped objects are different.
Can anyone explain in metallurgical terms what the differences are?

Daryl
MN
Daryl, The primary difference is mass. For heavy pounding you want a big anvil. For dinking, a small one will work fine. You want the full impact of the hammer to reform the workpiece and need a large mass backing up the work. It also helps to have elasticity so the micro deformation which occurs in the anvil rebounds, working the piece from the backside. A good anvil has a bell like tone to it when struck. A hammer allowed to pivot and hit the face will rebound nearly to its starting height. Kind of like the difference between a lead hammer and a steel hammer.

Similarly, the shape. Anvils have a great many shapes but the best ones have well defined horns. Farriers anvils are designed primarily for working horseshoes and some have a larger flattened section on the horn and possibly a small ledge of to one side for drawing clips on horseshoes. Aside from that, there is a step on the anvil which can be used as a stop when upsetting iron increasing it's cross section. There is usually a hardy hole, the square hole toward the rear which is used for various accessory tools, the hardy being one of them. The hardy is essentially a chisel mounted upside down where a piece of hot iron is laid and struck with a hammer to separate. Finally, there can be a small round hole a little further back and to the side that a blacksmith would use for a backing when punching holes. The rectangular punch used to make holes in horseshoes is called a pritchel, hence the name. The anvil curves are somewhat like the curves on a drafting French curve; many different radii to make different curves in the workpiece.

From a metallurgic standpoint, anvils evolved from rocks to wrought iron to cast steel. Wrought iron was practically the only iron available and is fairly soft. Anvils were made by taking lumps of iron and forge welding the to make larger lumps. Pieces of chain a sometimes visible in old anvils. Somewhere in the past (I don't know exactly when, but probably 17th or 18th century) iron workers figured out how to make steel and they then forge welded a steel plate to the face of the anvil to provide a more durable work surface.

As steel making technology advanced, as well as more sophisticated methods of hardening the face, cast steel anvils were made and are the most common type of "professional" anvil today. The transition occurred in the early to mid twentieth century.

Cast iron anvils are poor caricatures of a real anvil. The horns are usually poorly shaped without a slender and sharp point needed to work small curves. Cast iron is not really good fro impact and can chip fairly easily if working on the edge of the face. The only good feature is they can be made cheaply.


I have a small anvil that I made from a section of rail that I have used for almost forty years. I cut the basic shape then forged the face to a squared and flattened form. Afterward, I hardened and tempered it. I use it mostly for sheet metal. My large anvil is a 100 lb. Mousehole pattern. It was a common anvil style in the eighteenth century. It has a shorter, wider face and the heel comes down to the waist at angle closer to vertical the more modern anvils. It is the anvil that a forge welded a new face on. It is also the anvil that I use for heavy iron work and can take working with an eight lb. sledge.

Bob
 
I have an old Peter Wright anvil I picked up at a garage sale, 1880 or something about 85 pounds, never weighed it, the top edges have some small chunks missing, is that repairable or feasible to try to repair? It was and is on a metal stand, should the stand be a large wood mass to absorb the shock??
 
RJSakowski,
Thanks for the carefully assembled response.
I know a sword smith here in MN. Makes European recreations, as close to authentic as he is able.
Multiple layers of steel working together to accomplish the objective.
Evidently the hammering side should not be brittle. I was thinking that some AR or surfacing rod could be used to create a very tough layer.
But, that'd likely be a hazard as chips break off and fly.

Daryl
MN
 
Has anyone broken off the horn on a HF anvil? I haven't read or seen anyone that has done so. That tells me the "cast iron" is really a poor grade of ductile iron. In some of the cast iron castings I've dealt with in the past few years from China have been "alloyed" to get the strength up in them. Which is fine for some applications, but for other applications, you cannot have any alloying of the iron. If the HF anvils have been alloyed into ductile iron, then they could easily be welded with nickel rod made for welding ductile iron. Just a thought.
 
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