Bought Clausing 6900 series lathe, has 7/8-14 leveling bolts but no isolator feet

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Can't find anything 7/8-14 to fit the leveling bolts for my isolating/leveling my lathe. Clausing sent me a drawing for the bolts, but they are already on the lathe so that's not what I was needing. This lathe is installed on concrete but I can't find any isolator feet that have a compatible thread or any other method of setting it up properly without rigging any home-grown band-aid. Any ideas or direction would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Can't find anything 7/8-14 to fit the leveling bolts for my isolating/leveling my lathe. Clausing sent me a drawing for the bolts, but they are already on the lathe so that's not what I was needing. This lathe is installed on concrete but I can't find any isolator feet that have a compatible thread or any other method of setting it up properly without rigging any home-grown band-aid. Any ideas or direction would be appreciated. Thanks.
The lathe is designed to put concrete anchors thru the holes in the 7/8-14 bolts. With 4 small steel plates (with holes in them for the anchors to pass through) for the leveling bolts to push against. This method allows you to push-pull as needed to take any twist out of the bed when doing a precision level of the machine. I put Steel casters on my 5913 Clausing (the stepbrother of the 6900 series Clausing) I chose casters over permanent installation because of my limited space.
 
I have a 6913 and had another 6913 as well until recently. I don't think anyone will offer what you're looking for. It's a simple piece of flat stock that has a rubber pad glued to it. There is a hole through both for the leveling bolt. The plate and pad are retained on the leveling bolt with an external retaining ring/snap ring. You simply fit the bolt through the plate/pad and pop the snap ring in place. That lets the retaining bolt rotate while the plate stays stationary.
 
Do you need isolators or vibration dampening? Is there some sort of performance issue you are hoping to solve?

To bolt or not to bolt is a much debated topic. My lathe is similar, perhaps a little bigger (15x60, light pattern weighs about 2500 pounds). I never bolted it down for the first 25 years, never had a significant problem. I simply used 4x4 plates and shimmed to level. It didn’t cut perfectly straight, but workable. A couple machinist friends insisted that it would never be right until it had been bolted down. So when I built the new shop, I bolted it down (again on plates and shims, it doesn’t live on the jack bolts). It made zero difference. I had avoided lifting the headstock, because the original equipment manufacturer always knows best. Well about 4 years ago, I finally investigated further, there was paint/filler on the V way - cleaned it well, reassembled, much better. I have three other lathes, 4 milling machines, two surface grinders, radial arm drill (50,000 lbs of metal) - plenty of gear, nothing else is bolted. I know plenty of guys that don’t bolt the machines down.

If you are just setting the machine up, try setting it on plates and shim to level (I used the pre-cut stainless “A” or “B” shims). If there is a problem then sort it out (if there is enough vibration that it won’t stay in one place, then you have bigger issues).
 
If you are just setting the machine up, try setting it on plates and shim to level (I used the pre-cut stainless “A” or “B” shims). If there is a problem then sort it out (if there is enough vibration that it won’t stay in one place, then you have bigger issues).
The OP hasn't made it exactly clear, but his machine is definitely missing parts in the foot/height adjuster setup.

The foot setup on these is an L-shaped bracket that bolts to the cabinet that is threaded for a hollow height adjustment screw. That screw has a turned down section at the bottom with a shoulder that goes through a flat metal plate with a rubber pad on the bottom. The shoulder bears on the metal pad. The pad is held to the plate with a snap ring. He says it's got the adjusting screws, but not the pads.

I wouldn't want to put the hollow adjusting screws on top of a metal plate, or directly on the floor as there would be very little surface area and it would either chew up the floor or chew up the adjusting screw.
 
Thanks for all the replies, to clarify, this is what I have (picture of the 7/8-14 bolt/leveling screw & lathe foot) vs. the Figure 1 P3.1 of the manual for the 6900 lathe. So I have everything except the Leveling Screw Pad which looks like a steel (assuming) plate bonded to a rubber isolator, which was the intent of my post/request. The lathe is sitting on concrete which the manual says that the Mounting Pads do not require anchoring [to the concrete floor]. I don't mind making a hybrid design for a Leveling Screw Pad, I was just trying not to band-aid it with a homegrown 'guesstimate' of materials, construction, etc.
 

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A water jet cutting company gave me 4 oval shaped steel drops that are maybe 5/8” thick. I’m drilling divots about 1/8” larger than the leveling screws using a twist drill, deep enough to get to the full diameter to about 1/8” below the surface. That’s all that I intend to use unless vibration becomes a problem. If the lathe needs isolation I’ll put some sheet rubber between the steel and the floor.
 
A water jet cutting company gave me 4 oval shaped steel drops that are maybe 5/8” thick. I’m drilling divots about 1/8” larger than the leveling screws using a twist drill, deep enough to get to the full diameter to about 1/8” below the surface. That’s all that I intend to use unless vibration becomes a problem. If the lathe needs isolation I’ll put some sheet rubber between the steel and the floor.
That wouldn't really work for the OP's setup. The screws are hollow all the way through. They have a shoulder at the bottom that rests on the metal pad and they slightly protrude through the bottom, but are much smaller diameter than the body of the screw. There's a groove at the bottom of the screw for a retaining ring that keeps the pad secured to the screw. Putting the level screw on the concrete or on a metal pad like you've done would have all the weight on a small circle maybe 1/2" OD with a fraction of an inch all the way around for surface contact.
 
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