Boring Head In Tail Stock

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Tozguy

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I am contemplating turning a 24'' long slow taper by using a centre in a boring head mounted in the MT3 socket of the tail stock quill. A centre in the boring head would be offset as required instead of moving the tail stock out off alignment.
The question is whether I should expect the MT3 taper (without tang or draw bar) to hold well enough for this kind of work. I'd be glad to provide any more particulars about this job as needed.
Thanks, Mike
 
There isn't a great deal of force applied to a lubricated center used in this fashion so I should think an MT3 taper would handle it easily. But remember, this is coming from someone who hasn't done it before.

I would be concerned about an inaccurate taper myself. How do you use a follow rest over a 24" long tapered work piece?
 
The idea is to taper a 416 SS barrel that is cylindrical 1,235'' in diameter, to .900'' at one end. It is to lighten and profile the barrel.
My plan is to set up the 24'' barrel between centers. The centre at the tail stock end to be held in a 2'' boring head that is offset to the required amount. The boring head is on an MT3 arbor to fit in the TS quill.
Taking light cuts with a sharp tool I hope to manage without using a steady rest. My concern is that cutting force will put torque on the boring head because of the offset, torque that must be held by the MT3 quill.
The MT3 tapers are in good shape and it is usually difficult to pop out a tool. But I have never used a set up like this before and seek some words of wisdom about it.
 
I have a center similar to what you are talking about, and it work very well. The only problem you may have is if you off set the boring bar to much you may have trouble holding the part in the head and tailstock centers. I f i off set mine a lot i use a ball center in the headstock. It is a ball bearing that replaces the point so you can off set the taper as much as you want.

018.JPG
 
Can't you just offset the tailstock? The boring head is just one more piece to take up space between centers and cause chatter.
I turn lots of barrels between centers on my 13" SB, and never need a steady rest. The trick is to use a tool shaped like this ^, take .015" per side d.o.c., and .015" per rev. Set the tool height as far as you can above center and still cut. It might even squeal at the tailstock end for a second. Use flood coolant even if you just have to use a spray bottle to apply it.
 
Glad to have your comments folks.

Kernbigo, The ball tipped centers is a great idea, thanks for the pic. How deep does the ball have to go into the work for a good hold? Wouldn't both centers need a ball?

derf, yes the idea of just off setting the tail stock is looking better and better. Thanks for the tool setting info. Could you give me an idea for nose radius?
 
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These are the 2 i use, tailstock is dead, headstock is a ball for a lot of off set, dog the piece using a face plate.

centers 001.JPG
 
OK I see, the Taper Tail looks like an MT3, I like!
 
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