Bill M's Pm1340gt Setup

Most of the precision test bars I have seen are made in India, they are usually listed as something like 0.0001"maximum run out (not sure over what distance, or this is the TIR at any one point)?

Most test bars are listed in parallelism at 0.0002". I have two, a MT4 & MT5. I had both measured and they came in under that in Dia., between centers and to the taper. I had the test bars measured when I was getting out of spec readings on a lathe spindle taper. The lathe spindle taper was out of spec.
 
The nice thing about machining a bar is it will give you a cylinder concentric to the lathe spindle, no run out issues. I did a bar similar to Bill's but setup an indicator at the end of the bar when doing the headstock adjustment. That allowed me to see how much movement I was getting with the screw. It isn't a one to one relationship to the test bar but does gives you some feedback.
That's correct sanddan. This is my 2 cents worth....When you chuck up a bar to machine, and use it for checking spindle to bed alignment... i.e... Headstock alignment, any runout in the chuck or work piece is irrelevant. One you turn down the piece it becomes true to the spindle as well as taking on the spindle to bed accuracy. Any runout in the chuck is canceled out as it rotates. (Because it's making a circle) If its out neg 10 thousands one way, 180 degrees from there it will be out pos 10 thousands. Thus offsetting any effect on the final accuracy. This is assuming though you don't take the piece out of the chuck. Once you do that you have to start over. Because your cutting tool follows the bed of the lathe, it will true the part to the accuracy of the spindle/bed combination no matter how much runout you have in the shaft or chuck. (assuming you are not deflecting the work by taking too heavy of a cut) you just have to make sure the diameter is large enough to makeup for the loss of material you machine off due to runout. Once the shaft is completely cleaned up and concentric, it will give you an exact reading of your headstock to bed accuracy. It seems some people don't understand the logic behind this test.
I like to tease my guys at work sometimes, and we were talking about headstock accuracy on the lathe. They told me you needed a precision test bar to measure this. I disagreed. I told them we could chuck up any old piece of steel or aluminum in there, machine it, and I would get an accurate reading. So the bet was on. At this point we already knew the headstock alignment was .0003 at 7 inches. I chucked up a piece of 2 inch steel about 12 inches long. Threw it in the lathe and just set it to about .010 runout at the outer end of the shaft. (This was to prove my point) took several light cuts till it was all cleaned up. Marked two spots 7 inches apart. Pulled out the mic and bam... .0003 difference.
There still is a reason to get the shaft chucked up with as little runout as possible.... Because the truer it is the less cuts you need to make!
This test is for checking the alignment of the Z to the X axis. It's assuming the Y axis is accurate. You can get bed twist that will mimic a headstock alignment issue. That's why it's important to make sure your lathe is dead nuts level before trying to adjust the headstock. You can also check to make sure your headstock is aligned to your cross slide (X Axis) by chucking a large diameter piece in the chuck, do a facing cut and sweep across it with a dial indicator
 
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"Lots of people don't understand the logic behind this test."

I'm not even close to being a machinist and it makes perfect sense to me. I don't question your comment, but I don't understand how this could be misunderstood by some folks if explained properly?
 
"Lots of people don't understand the logic behind this test."

I'm not even close to being a machinist and it makes perfect sense to me. I don't question your comment, but I don't understand how this could be misunderstood by some folks if explained properly?
I shouldn't say lots I guess, but I'm always hearing how you need a "precision" test bar for this. It's nice, but unnecessary. I think people tend to assume that if there's runout at the end of the shaft it will remove more metal then towards the chuck thus affecting the final readings? At least I can see how someone would think that.
I agree that it's all in the explanation, not that I'm very good at explaining it. I think this is one of those things that it would be easier to show.
 
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I scored very high in spatial acuity and am comfortable thinking in pictures. Yea, I'm weird... :rolleyes:
 
So, I used that high-dollar test bar to tweak the headstock alignment, and here is my first test cut after doing that.
Now the question: do I mess with it again, or call it good? (I probably won't rest until it's to the tenth)

IMG_20160413_222523040_HDR.jpg


test cut.jpg



- RIO
 
So, I used that high-dollar test bar to tweak the headstock alignment, and here is my first test cut after doing that.
Now the question: do I mess with it again, or call it good? (I probably won't rest until it's to the tenth)

View attachment 127018

View attachment 127019


- RIO
.0003 over 9 isn't too shabby. You could probably just every so slightly crank on the bolt that's more towards the tail stock. Wouldn't take much at all. When you get down to that little, it sometimes feels like you're chasing your tail ya know?? Mine tends to fluctuate between .0002 and .0003 over 6-7 inches depending on the material I'm cutting and the feed rate. I'm curious RIO, is your measurement consistent all the way across the finished surface? The reason I ask is the other day I was machining a 304 stainless shaft and it would be consistent within 2 tenths all the way across on both ends except, for one area 2-3 inches from the chuck, that would randomly increase .001 for a couple inches, then go back to my original setting. It was weird. Think I finally decided it must be something in the material over that area. Normally that would indicate a worn bed. But obviously that can't be the issue here,
 
Now the question: do I mess with it again, or call it good? (I probably won't rest until it's to the tenth)
I think we end up chasing our tail on this one. Chuck it up a little different you might get something else. Use another chuck, it may be better, but usually worse, the material, cutting tool and depth of cut will also factor in. I just do not have faith that the chuck can hold the material true out to 9" and expect to hit something like 0.0002" repeatably. Let alone change chucks, and trying to get the same accuracy. I have read several posts where gunsmiths have aligned their 4J independent and then never took it off the lathe thereafter.
 
Agree with Mark. You may end up chasing your tail or be off the other way by more than what you started with. A variance of .0003" in 9" is actually pretty respectable.

Mike.
 
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