Best way to deck a large piece of steel?

I'll second the palm sander. after running multiple passes with a 2-3" face mill or fly cutter. Or, sand blast it ...
 
I think I’m going to get it close with a few passes on a face mill, and then sand it. Thanks for all the tips folks! Much appreciated. Going to wait to get the new face mill with the squared inserts for an easier cut than my existing. The mill will be here tomorrow, but the inserts are slow rolling from China.
 
whitmore said:
If it were my project, I'd be inclined to flip it over and hand-stone the 'bad' side. You
want the face smooth, but there's no burrs on a hot-rolled surface, just soft oxide. The oxide will
rub off anyhow (and blueing will come off the rubbed surface too), but you can take it down quick with
a bit of elbow grease. It's imprecise, but the tooling is simple and easy.
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The plate was thicker than the plans called for so I had to size it down. Technically I diddnt HAVE to, but I’m using this project to learn my machines, and try to hit tolerances on each part. I’m new to machining. Aside for a lathe spider and some DRO mounts, this is my first thing I’m machining.
 
Alcap said:
For further reference if you need large steel , aluminum etc machined smooth and flat look up companies the surface grind with Blanchard surface grinders . Heres a nice explanation. https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/difference-blanchard-grinding-precision-grinding/.
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Very cool! I was lucky enough to find a piece in the drop room at a MS near me so only had to pay by the lb. Most of the other raw materials I have from winning an auction of “scrap metal” that included huge unmachined bar stock, round stock, etc in 12 foot lengths. Mostly aluminum.
 
ErichKeane said:
You'll note that I actually suggested a large shaper OR a planer. It seemed the requirement was to do it in 1 pass/setup, which there are very few machines that could do that. You'd be surprised at how many shapers and planers are around.
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Shapers yes, planers, Not many. Most were scrapped. I am sure there are a few around, but it's rare.
Shapers, Not as many big ones ... It's become a hobbyist rage, and a few machine shops use them for specific jobs,
Other than that, I don't think the big ones are so ubiquitous. I think (key word) most are small shapers in the hobby guys shop.

Then Christian knowing someone who owned one locally? Look, mentioning it is one thing, coming up with it as the goto solution, and inviting Christian over to Keith Rucker's.. I just thought let's get back to reality.. I'm sure if you were best buddies with KR, it would help, but without that ..
 
woodchucker said:
Shapers yes, planers, Not many. Most were scrapped. I am sure there are a few around, but it's rare.
Shapers, Not as many big ones ... It's become a hobbyist rage, and a few machine shops use them for specific jobs,
Other than that, I don't think the big ones are so ubiquitous. I think (key word) most are small shapers in the hobby guys shop.

Then Christian knowing someone who owned one locally? Look, mentioning it is one thing, coming up with it as the goto solution, and inviting Christian over to Keith Rucker's.. I just thought let's get back to reality.. I'm sure if you were best buddies with KR, it would help, but without that ..
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I guess perhaps the amount of large shapers around is somewhere between what you expect and what I do. The facebook shapers/planers group has quite a few members(about 2k, many/most with large shapers/planers) and quite a large number of both around (interestingly, seemingly biased towards the US East Coast, like where OP is from). I mention Keith Rucker because he seems frequently willing to take on viewer projects, and might love an excuse to run his new planer on a project.

Either way, it was a suggestion that I think is more valid than the static I'm getting here. Planers/shapers leave a unique finish that could very well work out nicely for OPs project, which is why I suggested it.
 
Usually the issue with mill multiple passes is to avoid a small step between passes. A bigger face mill can actually make that step worse, bigger sawtooth effect for any error. Another sorce of error is reclamping as you move the part. Cleaning, and if necessary stoning the table can help.

Random thought-a face mill or end mill will dish the face slightly if not trammed. A very slight dish may reduce the edge step with say a 75% or so step over?
 
Truth be told, putting a fine finish on mild steel plate for a belt sander is probably overkill. A soak in some Muriatic acid followed by a power sander to smooth it out would be more than sufficient.

Let's not get each other angry in our efforts to help.
 
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