- Joined
- Jan 22, 2014
- Messages
- 578
I just finished my version of a Ball Turner that is based on Steve Bedair’s basic design and dimensions (http://bedair.org/9x20camlock/…..oject.html). As Steve stated, the only dimension that is critical is the tool height.
I made mine specifically for my Grizzly G0602 that has been modified with the popular 4-bolt compound conversion. My bolt pattern is 4 1/2” X 4 3/4” instead of Steve’s 4” X 4”. I also left the handle straight and a bit longer. I made my first ball 7/8”, instead of his 1”. I also took Steve’s advice and made my tool holder double-ended w/triangle carbide inserts so I can make both convex and concave cuts.
I made the puck out of a chunk of hot rolled 3” round stock. I finished it to size, cut a shallow grease retention groove in the bottom and drilled and tapped for a 3/8”-16 CS screw.
I milled the tool holder groove and drilled and tapped the tool holder screws in the mill.
I used ½” steel plate for the base and cut it on my horizontal band saw. Sized and trued it in the mill.
I laid out the center hole and set it up in the 4-jaw. I trued it with the Dead Center / Dial Indicator method. I drilled a 3/8” hole and turned the 45* counter sink with the compound. I flipped it over, faced it off and cut the step.
I cut the tool holder out of ½” steel plate and finished shaping & sizing it in the mill.
I scribed the tool height on the tool blank and mill it for carbide inserts. I then cut the 60* reliefs on the mill in an angle vise.
I made a handle out of 3/8” round bar. I made and installed the “blank” knob and turned the ball.
I also tried a concave cut.
I wasn't sure how solid this tool would be so I left some extra material under the carbides. I found that I need to provide more relief on the holding side of the convex cutter because I was getting some interference near the shaft while cutting the ball. The other 3 sides had no problem. Theoretically, it will cut a ball up to 2" in size.
I made mine specifically for my Grizzly G0602 that has been modified with the popular 4-bolt compound conversion. My bolt pattern is 4 1/2” X 4 3/4” instead of Steve’s 4” X 4”. I also left the handle straight and a bit longer. I made my first ball 7/8”, instead of his 1”. I also took Steve’s advice and made my tool holder double-ended w/triangle carbide inserts so I can make both convex and concave cuts.
I made the puck out of a chunk of hot rolled 3” round stock. I finished it to size, cut a shallow grease retention groove in the bottom and drilled and tapped for a 3/8”-16 CS screw.
I milled the tool holder groove and drilled and tapped the tool holder screws in the mill.
I used ½” steel plate for the base and cut it on my horizontal band saw. Sized and trued it in the mill.
I laid out the center hole and set it up in the 4-jaw. I trued it with the Dead Center / Dial Indicator method. I drilled a 3/8” hole and turned the 45* counter sink with the compound. I flipped it over, faced it off and cut the step.
I cut the tool holder out of ½” steel plate and finished shaping & sizing it in the mill.
I scribed the tool height on the tool blank and mill it for carbide inserts. I then cut the 60* reliefs on the mill in an angle vise.
I made a handle out of 3/8” round bar. I made and installed the “blank” knob and turned the ball.
I also tried a concave cut.
I wasn't sure how solid this tool would be so I left some extra material under the carbides. I found that I need to provide more relief on the holding side of the convex cutter because I was getting some interference near the shaft while cutting the ball. The other 3 sides had no problem. Theoretically, it will cut a ball up to 2" in size.