Atlas V36 rebuild

Wa5cab, thank you. I ended up cutting a piece of quarter inch round stock to length, and driving it in. I found a YouTube video that clearly showed a pin in place between those two components. I thought about using aluminum or something, as a further protection measure for the geartrain. But after several moments of deep thought, I recognized that I wasnt smart enough to know if that would do any good. So, steel it is.
 
OK.

How did you originally get it apart? Or was it already disassembled when you got the lathe?
 
It was already disassembled. I bought this lathe as a neatly stacked pile of pieces, with ziplock bags full of fasteners.
 
Today I disassembled the backgear assembly , cleaned all the pieces, and put it back together. When I mounted it to the headstock, it bound up and wouldn’t rotate. I fiddled with it for an hour trying to come up with an explanation. I hit the internet in search of an answer. No luck. After another hour of pondering my dilemma, I went back to working on it. Eventually I realized I’d pinned the eccentric 180 degrees off. With that fixed, it’s mounted, and looks like it’ll do what it’s meant to do. I decided not to paint the cast pieces. I oiled them up really well. Not that it matters, but I found oven cleaner to be no more effective at removing ridiculously thick paint than any other way I’ve tried. The best way seems to be electrolysis, but I haven’t felt like setting that up this year.

Thanks for reading.
 
Paint is the fun part!!


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jwmay said:
Wa5cab, thank you. I ended up cutting a piece of quarter inch round stock to length, and driving it in. I found a YouTube video that clearly showed a pin in place between those two components. I thought about using aluminum or something, as a further protection measure for the geartrain. But after several moments of deep thought, I recognized that I wasnt smart enough to know if that would do any good. So, steel it is.
Click to expand...

Not being an engineer, I'm not sure whether it would make any difference, but it seems like even "hardened steel" wouldn't be out of the question. From the diagram, it looked to me like the part/pin gets a fair amount of strain (you can tell better). I definitely would not have thought of using aluminum. : )

Bill
 
wa5cab said:
It would appear so. The drawing clearly shows a hole in both the stub shaft and the gear. However, none of the Atlas 10" parts lists that I have back to 1942 nor the 9" list from around 1936 show anything that would keep the stub shaft from turning inside of the left reverse gear. Numerous people on here and on groups.io or the earlier Yahoo Group have indicated taking the gearbox apart but none ever mentioned this. I tried to call Clausing about it but they close a little early on Friday and I missed them. IFF you need to disassemble the 9-27X for some other reason, please report what you find.
Click to expand...
I finally remembered to call Clausing this afternoon early enough and asked Tom McNett about the question of what keeps 9-52A from turning inside of 9-48B. He dug up a drawing for 9-27X, which is the complete reversing gearbox. The answer is a 1/4" dia. by 7/8" long steel roll pin. I updated the final 1966 parts manual to include it. Anyone who has 10L-6 should download Revision 11.
 
So today the cat turned up with a broken femur. This is completely off topic of course. Anyways, I thought he’d made it to the end of his nine lives, but tomorrow he’ll be evaluated for amputation. Swmbo has decided.

Anyways I started working on removing the paint from the motor bracket and countershaft bracket. After too long outside with a wire wheel on a grinder, I decided I’ll set up the electrolysis bucket tomorrow. Too many curves and crevices on these pieces. I cleaned up the banjo, which appears to have been broken and brazed in 5 places. I may spring for the steel replacement I see on EBay. Just depends if this one will let the gears run true. If there’s a ton of oscillation, then a new one will have to be sourced. No progress so far with the thread protector or the plunger for the reversing gearbox. Thanks for reading.
 
Sorry to hear about your cat, I have a fondness for the critters
Making good progress on the Atlas
mark
 
Here's an article to get you started with roll pins (I was completely ignorant about them before I read it):

Tips for Inserting a Roll Pin

Roll pins are used in a variety of automotive and industrial applications to provide a clean, hidden method of connecting parts at 90 degrees, allowing the two parts to swivel in relation to one another. The roll pin mates two parts by passing through them. A groove in the pin allows the pin to...
itstillruns.com itstillruns.com
 
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