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Atlas Mfc Mill Arbor Drawing ?
- Thread starter Mondo
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2018
- Messages
- 880
Is he accepting new orders? I contacted him about a different part and mentioned the arbors always being "out of stock", and he said he was way behind on part-making.
Reminds me, still need to make an arbor - been limping along with an endmill holder
EDIT: Looks like he is!
Reminds me, still need to make an arbor - been limping along with an endmill holder
EDIT: Looks like he is!
Hello,
Is anybody had construct Arbor's for Atlas MFC yet???
This is the only component that gives me kick backs,I don't have neather 1" or the 7/8" variations...
My milling machine still incomplete without those parts...
Unless somebody willing to sell original or post production...
Is anybody had construct Arbor's for Atlas MFC yet???
This is the only component that gives me kick backs,I don't have neather 1" or the 7/8" variations...
My milling machine still incomplete without those parts...
Unless somebody willing to sell original or post production...
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,511
You should have read through this entire thread, which first would have told you that both factory drawings are in Downloads, much cleaner than they were when I first got them. Regardless of whether you are going to make the 7/8" diameter one or the 1", you should download and read both of them as each have notes that could apply to the other but aren't on the other.
The thread also has some other tips, like where to buy a commercially available nut that can be modified much quicker that you could make one out of hex stock. Also, although I didn't delete them at the time, the practice of downloading the drawings from our Downloads and then posting them here in the thread is discouraged for two obvious reasons.
Finally, although I think that he sold all that he had made, there was an eBay seller who was selling both sizes, plus a larger one that Atlas never made. You will not find the old ads on eBay thanks to their practice of hiding (or maybe even of deleting) and ads more than 60 days old. But the seller may still be on ebay and would probably at least answer a message sent through eBay.
Also, although I don't recall ever seeing any on Joel's site, you might try checking with MyMachineShop.net.
The thread also has some other tips, like where to buy a commercially available nut that can be modified much quicker that you could make one out of hex stock. Also, although I didn't delete them at the time, the practice of downloading the drawings from our Downloads and then posting them here in the thread is discouraged for two obvious reasons.
Finally, although I think that he sold all that he had made, there was an eBay seller who was selling both sizes, plus a larger one that Atlas never made. You will not find the old ads on eBay thanks to their practice of hiding (or maybe even of deleting) and ads more than 60 days old. But the seller may still be on ebay and would probably at least answer a message sent through eBay.
Also, although I don't recall ever seeing any on Joel's site, you might try checking with MyMachineShop.net.
Good,
I don't know why it was written by one of members here that 1" and 7/8 have identical 1/4 key's???
I knew that is BS,all the cutting saw's 7/8 center hole I seen at ebay have small key ways...
I had obtained 2 keyed rods for arbor construction project,one is 7/8" and other 1",the rod's have threaded end 3/4x16 TPI but it need to be reduced at end 15.8mm in order to fit into arm earing..
I had ordered 1 1/16 wide bushings which would be first retained by hex screw's/bolts and those area's would be weld shut,next front and rear gaps would be grund off and weld all together with arbor rod...
Last step installing MT2 shanks which would conclude arbor assembly,this is way cheaper to make arbor rather than buy them at expansive price at MymachineShop.net,the seller want too much waiting time like 10 days in order to mail those arbor's despites expansive price..
The keyed rod's been checked with actual cutting saw's and they sits perfect like they belong there...
The last part would be airing spacers and shims...
I had personally made 8 different parts for my MFC to avoid over spending more money,saddest part that I had to get my MFC piece by piece,the real saddest part that now that my MFC have all parts for assembly I seen complete machine getting sold much cheaper at ebay,where those sellers was 4 month's ago??
Arbor's would fully complete MFC,my MFC have totally different spindle..
Unlike original that have 7/8 rear body I had adopt 618 lathe by extending it and it's rear spacer by 1/2 longer..
The bull gears are exact same from 618 lathe and MFC so as back gear's,spindle pulley also looks exact same except have smaller belt tracks 3/8 wideness of the belt..
I was lucky to find close matching countershaft pulley that have parallel track,4 different size tracks means 4 different speeds for spindle....
The eccentric rod is self made so as handle and headstock side panel,cross slide screw bearing/bushing also self made and no difference from original except rear end have wideness that hold over arm plate better without allowing it to slip out...
I had made 2 crank handles for table and one locking piece for arbor arm was been replaced by making square hole for bottom,original piece was ugly like somebody was took bite from it..
I had to make spacer later from aluminum rod,all parts mostly available except motor mount bracket which I would make tomorrow at work..
As for headstock assembly I need collar with 1" hole for front of spindle,the bull gear must be retained properly and not allowed to move forward,if that happens bull gear indexing pin would bind with spindle pulley and cost damage,that issue is common problem on both Atlas 618 lathe's and Atlas MF series milling machines..
Atlas press Company wasn't provide drawings on their manuals that this critical collar is missing,same small part cost problems to over spend money to find expansive parts in order to fix damages...
Another issue is failure to adjust spindle bearings correctly,if bearings loose it would cost shifting and damage to spindle parts plus fast bearing wear outs....
I also found strange issues about Timken 07079 bearings,the one I bought before was too long than factory data sheet specify and it over passes headstock race by 3 extra milimiters longer,although bearing marked 07079 it was incorrect bearing,it took me times to get next bearing after that 4A but it too small and it overpasses race but center bore correct 3/4 size..
Last week I was asked about the bearing another seller and finally got correct British bearing instead of Timken 07079X,that is precise bearing to fit in race of headstock..
Yet without the collar with 1" center hole I won't start assembling headstock,only when all parts available...
The headstock with spindle would be assembled first,than it attaches to body cast and body cast attaches to bottom mounting plate,than goes gear mounting plate,countershaft assembly and motor mount with motor...
My MFC have very nice clean parts like from museum,I had repaired 3 parts bottom plate,countershaft hanger and table.
There was some small crack's and chippings but nothing major,each part was cost me 30 bucks and that was sweet deal I couldn't resist..
I have 12 different saw's with 1" hole,the most harder ones to get is slab or plain cutters,those are expansive and most never available with 7/8 or 1" holes,they goes 1 1/2 or 1/14 arbor holes..
The very interesting ones to get is gear cutting saw's,convex and shaped cutters like hob cutters..
I also have plan how to build vertical head attachment that won't depend on belts and pulley's extra setting,it would be attached to spindle directly instead and retained by draw bar,the outer flange would be attached at headstock by means of special indexing bracket that allow head to rotate at any degree's..
I think better to use R8 collets,I have whole complete set of them among with end mill cutters and shell cutters....
In past I had bought very huge lot of lathe cutters,milling cutters,reamers and various center drill bits,that was like nearly 17 years ago,they was dirt cheap and I bought them,now lot's like that no longer available or getting sold,it was worth it to spend 45 bucks back at that time...
I have my Craftsman 109 lathe under modification,when completed it would go beyond it's original capacity load,unlike original spindle which had weak 1/2 threaded chuck end my new spindle is 3/4 size instead and it hollowed allowing do some deep drilling..
The apron was been redone and balanced unlike before,bottom of it been extended and new parts would be installed like normal feeding gears with worm and geared rack for manual use,as for auto feed new half nut been made which would engage or disengage lead screw,still need to make camming lever for half nut...
Final part would be building gear box assembly for lead screw,the part that Craftsman never made,this would complete lathe assembly..
Another curious thing about 109 model lathes that secondary bed could be modified and attached to make over 56" swing,that easily can enable deep drilling operations.
I have cast's of steady and following rest's that I made but they won't be done until whole lathe is completed...
I had also made my own support column for Wen 12" drill press,new column have way thicker walls,I had mount geared rack direct to it and now table assembly no longer can self rotate which among new column eliminate drill press head to lean forward or table self rotation which result out of center drilling most from time to time...
The new column was weight tested and it hold 10 ton pressure,I made construction exactly 1:1scale,column fits as should firmly without to tight or too loose issues...
I had also added extra 1/2 longer over original I think 28 inches long column,I threw original one out,that wasn't been a column it was exhaust pipe with thin wall's,that is not a pipe,it is rolled sheet metal that spot weld into pipe shape..
That how modern drill presses are made,one single Chinese factory assemble them in China under different brands....
The older USA made machinery was much better made than new junk on modern days...
What I like about Wen is belt adjusting pulley's that regulate speed from 450 to nearly 3000 rpm,the only thing I think missing is spindle,it should be made hollowed and have end thread for draw bar,this would eliminate arbor's to came out from quill area,the drill chuck arbor have end threaded,the collet chuck ER32 also have hole threaded that means that draw bar must be used for them to proper retaining...
I have an milling compound table that easily installs at drill press table,also there enough room for small milling vises there as well,turning drill press into vertical milling machine....
From time to times vertical milling machine like Brigeport could become drill press by mounting R8 arbor with chuck inside,they work vise versa...
Horizontal milling machines use saw cutters,in some cases they need most,slab cutter allow remove lot of extra surface per single pass,this is similar to shell milling....
I don't know why it was written by one of members here that 1" and 7/8 have identical 1/4 key's???
I knew that is BS,all the cutting saw's 7/8 center hole I seen at ebay have small key ways...
I had obtained 2 keyed rods for arbor construction project,one is 7/8" and other 1",the rod's have threaded end 3/4x16 TPI but it need to be reduced at end 15.8mm in order to fit into arm earing..
I had ordered 1 1/16 wide bushings which would be first retained by hex screw's/bolts and those area's would be weld shut,next front and rear gaps would be grund off and weld all together with arbor rod...
Last step installing MT2 shanks which would conclude arbor assembly,this is way cheaper to make arbor rather than buy them at expansive price at MymachineShop.net,the seller want too much waiting time like 10 days in order to mail those arbor's despites expansive price..
The keyed rod's been checked with actual cutting saw's and they sits perfect like they belong there...
The last part would be airing spacers and shims...
I had personally made 8 different parts for my MFC to avoid over spending more money,saddest part that I had to get my MFC piece by piece,the real saddest part that now that my MFC have all parts for assembly I seen complete machine getting sold much cheaper at ebay,where those sellers was 4 month's ago??
Arbor's would fully complete MFC,my MFC have totally different spindle..
Unlike original that have 7/8 rear body I had adopt 618 lathe by extending it and it's rear spacer by 1/2 longer..
The bull gears are exact same from 618 lathe and MFC so as back gear's,spindle pulley also looks exact same except have smaller belt tracks 3/8 wideness of the belt..
I was lucky to find close matching countershaft pulley that have parallel track,4 different size tracks means 4 different speeds for spindle....
The eccentric rod is self made so as handle and headstock side panel,cross slide screw bearing/bushing also self made and no difference from original except rear end have wideness that hold over arm plate better without allowing it to slip out...
I had made 2 crank handles for table and one locking piece for arbor arm was been replaced by making square hole for bottom,original piece was ugly like somebody was took bite from it..
I had to make spacer later from aluminum rod,all parts mostly available except motor mount bracket which I would make tomorrow at work..
As for headstock assembly I need collar with 1" hole for front of spindle,the bull gear must be retained properly and not allowed to move forward,if that happens bull gear indexing pin would bind with spindle pulley and cost damage,that issue is common problem on both Atlas 618 lathe's and Atlas MF series milling machines..
Atlas press Company wasn't provide drawings on their manuals that this critical collar is missing,same small part cost problems to over spend money to find expansive parts in order to fix damages...
Another issue is failure to adjust spindle bearings correctly,if bearings loose it would cost shifting and damage to spindle parts plus fast bearing wear outs....
I also found strange issues about Timken 07079 bearings,the one I bought before was too long than factory data sheet specify and it over passes headstock race by 3 extra milimiters longer,although bearing marked 07079 it was incorrect bearing,it took me times to get next bearing after that 4A but it too small and it overpasses race but center bore correct 3/4 size..
Last week I was asked about the bearing another seller and finally got correct British bearing instead of Timken 07079X,that is precise bearing to fit in race of headstock..
Yet without the collar with 1" center hole I won't start assembling headstock,only when all parts available...
The headstock with spindle would be assembled first,than it attaches to body cast and body cast attaches to bottom mounting plate,than goes gear mounting plate,countershaft assembly and motor mount with motor...
My MFC have very nice clean parts like from museum,I had repaired 3 parts bottom plate,countershaft hanger and table.
There was some small crack's and chippings but nothing major,each part was cost me 30 bucks and that was sweet deal I couldn't resist..
I have 12 different saw's with 1" hole,the most harder ones to get is slab or plain cutters,those are expansive and most never available with 7/8 or 1" holes,they goes 1 1/2 or 1/14 arbor holes..
The very interesting ones to get is gear cutting saw's,convex and shaped cutters like hob cutters..
I also have plan how to build vertical head attachment that won't depend on belts and pulley's extra setting,it would be attached to spindle directly instead and retained by draw bar,the outer flange would be attached at headstock by means of special indexing bracket that allow head to rotate at any degree's..
I think better to use R8 collets,I have whole complete set of them among with end mill cutters and shell cutters....
In past I had bought very huge lot of lathe cutters,milling cutters,reamers and various center drill bits,that was like nearly 17 years ago,they was dirt cheap and I bought them,now lot's like that no longer available or getting sold,it was worth it to spend 45 bucks back at that time...
I have my Craftsman 109 lathe under modification,when completed it would go beyond it's original capacity load,unlike original spindle which had weak 1/2 threaded chuck end my new spindle is 3/4 size instead and it hollowed allowing do some deep drilling..
The apron was been redone and balanced unlike before,bottom of it been extended and new parts would be installed like normal feeding gears with worm and geared rack for manual use,as for auto feed new half nut been made which would engage or disengage lead screw,still need to make camming lever for half nut...
Final part would be building gear box assembly for lead screw,the part that Craftsman never made,this would complete lathe assembly..
Another curious thing about 109 model lathes that secondary bed could be modified and attached to make over 56" swing,that easily can enable deep drilling operations.
I have cast's of steady and following rest's that I made but they won't be done until whole lathe is completed...
I had also made my own support column for Wen 12" drill press,new column have way thicker walls,I had mount geared rack direct to it and now table assembly no longer can self rotate which among new column eliminate drill press head to lean forward or table self rotation which result out of center drilling most from time to time...
The new column was weight tested and it hold 10 ton pressure,I made construction exactly 1:1scale,column fits as should firmly without to tight or too loose issues...
I had also added extra 1/2 longer over original I think 28 inches long column,I threw original one out,that wasn't been a column it was exhaust pipe with thin wall's,that is not a pipe,it is rolled sheet metal that spot weld into pipe shape..
That how modern drill presses are made,one single Chinese factory assemble them in China under different brands....
The older USA made machinery was much better made than new junk on modern days...
What I like about Wen is belt adjusting pulley's that regulate speed from 450 to nearly 3000 rpm,the only thing I think missing is spindle,it should be made hollowed and have end thread for draw bar,this would eliminate arbor's to came out from quill area,the drill chuck arbor have end threaded,the collet chuck ER32 also have hole threaded that means that draw bar must be used for them to proper retaining...
I have an milling compound table that easily installs at drill press table,also there enough room for small milling vises there as well,turning drill press into vertical milling machine....
From time to times vertical milling machine like Brigeport could become drill press by mounting R8 arbor with chuck inside,they work vise versa...
Horizontal milling machines use saw cutters,in some cases they need most,slab cutter allow remove lot of extra surface per single pass,this is similar to shell milling....