Atlas/Craftsman Serial Numbers and Bearing Dates (if applicable) For Database Entries

[Bigolac]

Bigolac,

It was most probably made in 1936 and was sold as a wood lathe under the catalog number of 99PM2026. What's there is the same as on the Craftsman 101.07360. What the actual model number is would require finding the owners & parts manual that was sold with it.

However, to get back to the bearings, if the left bearing is getting hot after running a few minutes, it is too tight.

The Atlas babbit bearing lathes that Sears sold and Atlas made left the factory with two 0.010" shim packs, one under each gearing cap bolts. Each shim pack was made up of five 0.0002" shims laminated together. So you need to get a roll of 0.002" shim stock and cut out a few shims. Stack them and clamp between two pieces of wood. drill the 3/8" bolt holes. Add one shim under each bolt and torque them down to about 20 to 25 lb-ft. If too loose, remove one shim and try it again. If still too tight, and one more shim and check again. After several minutes run-time. the bearing should get a little warm but not hot.

There is a PDF of the 1936 Power Tools catalog in Downloads. Full access to Downloads requires Donor status (any level). Unfortunately, we do not appear to have a copy of the nearest to correct parts list. All that we have are about one revision too new. And all have the back gears. And the only illustrated parts list that we have is several revisions too new, being the one on the 101.07383.

Thank you for the information - I greatly appreciate it. Currently there are shims under 2 of the four bolts, so I'll mess around with some shim stock and try to get it dialed in better. The bigger issue seems to come from putting pressure from the tailstock into the headstock (like when I'm trying to secure a piece of wood between the dead center on the headstock and live center on tailstock). I can really slow down the speed if I crank on it to hard. Might just be me getting used to the thing (coming from a 8x12 pen making lathe).

Next steps will be to make a mount for the motor - the one I got with this lathe is a Craftsman 1/2hp that weighs about 40 pounds with plenty of torque.

Hard to believe how true this lines up after 80 some odd years of use. I think with a little care and attention, it will continue to give years of use and joy.

 

[wa5cab]

First off, I forgot yesterday to ask you to try to add at one or more photographs of the lathe made from the "other" side of the lathe. AFAIK, all of the catalog photos are made of the "other" side. And all instruction in any books (including the MOLO) assume that the operating side of the lathe is the "other" side. Meaning the side that the operator normally stands on. So that means that the head stock is on the left end and the tail stock is on the right end. By definition. So I and probably most if not all of the members will assume that definition when writing about any lathe.

One funny comment that I will make is that you probably have the newest condition early version 10" or 12" bed in existence. Because with no carriage present, there will be no wear on the bed ways except for a little bit from the tail stock.

You say that there are shims under 2 of the 4 bearing cap bolts. But you don't say whether both bolts are in one bearing cap or one is in each bearing cap. Do not run the motor any more until you have the shim packs sorted out.

The maximum difference in thickness of the two shim packs in each bearing is 0.002".

I forgot to mention that you can probably still buy new shim packs from Clausing Industrial. The part numbers are I think 9-128 for the left ones and 10D-128 for the right ones. And the part numbers for the bearing caps themselves might be 10D-3 and 10D-4. I found the Sears instruction sheets for the Timkin bearing version of the lathe, 101.06280. But nothing for the babbit bearing version.

 

[Bigolac]

First off, I forgot yesterday to ask you to try to add at one or more photographs of the lathe made from the "other" side of the lathe. AFAIK, all of the catalog photos are made of the "other" side. And all instruction in any books (including the MOLO) assume that the operating side of the lathe is the "other" side. Meaning the side that the operator normally stands on. So that means that the head stock is on the left end and the tail stock is on the right end. By definition. So I and probably most if not all of the members will assume that definition when writing about any lathe.

One funny comment that I will make is that you probably have the newest condition early version 10" or 12" bed in existence. Because with no carriage present, there will be no wear on the bed ways except for a little bit from the tail stock.

You say that there are shims under 2 of the 4 bearing cap bolts. But you don't say whether both bolts are in one bearing cap or one is in each bearing cap. Do not run the motor any more until you have the shim packs sorted out.

The maximum difference in thickness of the two shim packs in each bearing is 0.002".

I forgot to mention that you can probably still buy new shim packs from Clausing Industrial. The part numbers are I think 9-128 for the left ones and 10D-128 for the right ones. And the part numbers for the bearing caps themselves might be 10D-3 and 10D-4. I found the Sears instruction sheets for the Timkin bearing version of the lathe, 101.06280. But nothing for the babbit bearing version.

I'll get some pictures of the front side shortly - I forgot to take them. I'll also get some shots of the motor - looks like it could be of the same vintage.

All four cap bolts are present, but shims are only present at two of the four locations. I'm with you - I'm not going to attempt running it until I can try to dial in the clearances.

 

[wa5cab]

But are the two shim packs both on the same bearing or one under each cap. Answer that and also say what the thickness of each of the shim packs is.

 

[Bigolac]

I'm uploading some more pictures - hopefully you can get a better idea of what this is.

I was mistaken regarding the shims - there are three present - please reference the picture for placement and thickness. They don't appear to be laminated - they're just one piece of brass for each shim. Pretty obvious the shim on right side is 'aftermarket'....

I also noticed some scoring on the 'in' side of the left bearing - tried to get a pic of that as well.

As far as the motor is concerned, I can't find any other identifiers other than the plate pictured.

Let me know if you want to see anything else.

Thanks - Adam

 

[wa5cab]

OK. I don't think that I had ever seen the back side of a tailstock. The front view shows it to probably be the same as that used on the 10" metal working lathes up through the 10D and the 12" up through 101.07382 or 101.07383. Both bearings violated the rule of having the shims no more that 0.002" different front to back.

And although the text with the photo of the shims does not say which one shows the left and which the right, they do show that the left and right journals are not worn more than about 50%. Get some original shim packs or at least some 0.002" shim stock and you should be good to go as far as the head stock spindle is concerned.

 

[KentRigby]

Edited with title change 20200627

In the combined machine database (742 entries to date) there are 180 10" entries, 21 of which show no serial numbers. There are 113 Craftsman entries, 19 or which show no serial numbers. Plus we only have 30 10" and 22 12" bearing dates for Timken equipped 10" or 12".

Anyway, anyone with any Atlas built machine (not just lathes) who doesn't remember for sure entering your machine into the old Yahoo database or giving it to me recently, please send me the model number; bed length, serial number (including any prefix or suffix letters), type (10F, 10D, etc.), and if it has Timken bearings, the bearing dates if you know them. If no bearing dates are available, then anything that would give the original purchase date (no guesses, please). Also any comments you wish to make about condition, accessories, when and where purchased, price, etc.
If your machine is a MK2 6", there is a somewhat more detailed questionnaire also in this sticky area. If you've responded to that questionnaire, no response is needed here.

Thanks, Robert D.

I have an Atlas 618, I think it's an 18" bed, but don't quote me on that. I included a picture of the model/serial plates, which are attached in the center of the back of the bed. It has bronze bushings/bearings. Not roller bearings. I purchased it in Ohiopyle, PA for $400. Condition is good, not great. The back gears are missing and the ways are pitted. The tailstock ram was seized, but it did come with a three jaw chuck.

 

[wa5cab]

Kent,

Your machine is 18" between centers but all Atlas 618's have Timken spindle bearings. Your machine is a Sears 101.07301 and has bronze sleeve bearings. The majority of parts are the same as supplied on the 618. Exceptions are the headstock casting, spindle and sleeve bearings, ball thrust bearing, headstock/belt cover, legs, and a couple of other bushings. The missing back gears and associated parts are the same as on the 618 except for a couple of other bushings and the carriage rack.

Plus the countershaft assembly always originally supplied was the second version of the 618 countershaft. The Atlas 618 only had that version for about two years before changing to the third version.

 

[KentRigby]

Thank you for all the information. I was under the impression that a Craftsman 101 was just a rebranded Atlas 618. Mine does say Atlas on the change gear cover and the change gear table on the inside of the cover also says Atlas I believe.

I would like to find a back gear assembly. There is one on ebay right now but it is kind of pricey. Someday I may add a set of change gears, but I don't currently have any need to cut threads.

 

[KentRigby]

Thank you for all the information. I was under the impression that a Craftsman 101 was just a rebranded Atlas 618. Mine does say Atlas on the change gear cover and the change gear table on the inside of the cover also says Atlas I believe.

I would like to find a back gear assembly. There is one on ebay right now but it is kind of pricey. Someday I may add a set of change gears, but I don't currently have any need to cut threads.

I was wrong, the tag on the change gear cover and inside the cover say Craftsman, not Atlas. My memory was playing tricks on me.