Are people still using DC motors to power their machines?

While this topic seemed to develop into something more technical than i could hope to keep up with, I have a small warning regarding the treadmill motor idea. When buying a donor treadmill, you don't always know what's inside it. I bought one, and the motor ended up being completely open with no protection from swarf, and it's variable speed came by way of a plastic reeves type pulley. Completely unusable for machine tools. So in the end I ended up with a destroyed treadmill to dispose of, fifty dollars less in my pocket, and 6 hours of wasted time. In the future, I will pay more money for parts I know are useable.
 
When buying a donor treadmill, you don't always know what's inside it. . . So in the end I ended up with a destroyed treadmill to dispose of, fifty dollars less in my pocket, and 6 hours of wasted time. In the future, I will pay more money for parts I know are useable.

In the future, watch the free section of Craigslist and be patient, and keep your wallet in your pocket. :)

I've got the motor from a free one sitting on a shelf, another in shop ready to take apart, and two have popped up since I dragged that one home. There is currently one available about an hour from me that I refuse to look at anymore, because I might go get it.

That said, you're $50 doesn't have to be completely lost:
-Save the walking board, and put it down in front of your mill or lathe with the plastic sheath on it. It makes for a nicely padded place to stand, and swarf sweeps off the plastic easily. I expect it to get ratty in a few months. I'll rip the plastic off, use the MDF for trial cuts, and replace it with another freebie.
-Those two rollers at the ends of the tread are nice for making a work support system for cutting long boards. There is plenty of square tube in the treadmill for making the support frame.
-The lift motor (if the treadmill has it) is bi-directional and slow. It would make a nice power feed for a mill table or lathe.
-Did it have a power lift spring for the walking surface to flip up. Those can be quite useful in a number of projects.
-I keep all nuts and bolt that aren't mangled, and those treadmills are full of 'em. Good quality, too.
-That walking tread is some really tough material. Nice for anything you want to protect from swarf. Cut it and roll it up. Keep it on a shelf.

Even the motor: It's open, but a little sheet metal can fix that. That treadmill should have some. I just left mine open. If swarf destroys it, I'll be willing to pay double for its replacement. I turned down the pulley it had, and fitted the pully stack that came with my RF-30 mill onto the stub. I use the smallest one of the stack. And have a low-medium-high selection using the intermediate-to-spindle pulley setup. It shouldn't be hard to make an aluminum adapter.
 
You know I just knew somebody would have a million ideas for that old treadmill. Haha. I've since learned a little bit, and agree that there was plenty of usability in what I had. But that ship..err treadmill sailed away on a scrap boat many years ago now.

I can't even remember what I was trying to run with it now. The only thing I had back then was a treadle sewing machine base with a grinding arbor mounted to the table and hand tools.

Glad those days are behind me! Ha!
 
I know this thread is a little stale but y'all might be interested in this:


1.3 HP with a wide RPM range available.

Robert
Still prefer the treadmill motor, if you can find it. If you can find one with a working MC-60 or MC-2100 controller, it has several power takeoffs that are useful. I've pulled power for LED work lights and to power a $5 Walmart USB fan. It's all automatically tied into the switch that powers the mill.

There is also a power takeoff that controls the treadmill incline motor that runs at a good speed for power feed. I was working that into the project, but went with a purposed designed power feed instead. I got in a hurry for a solution.

Even if you have to get the control board on the aftermarket, there is just so much more utility there in the treadmill. I'm posting a good diagram to follow below. Using this, I figured out where to get the 8v to 12V to power a flexible-arm, LED desk lamp. Cut off the wall wart, and spliced it straight into the connector. You'll also see the power take-off for the incline motor, and the connector to tie into to control it with low power switches.

 
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