Any Suggestions for South Bend Lathe Belts?

When I bought my SB9 several years ago, it had a serpentine belt installed. In order to separate the drive motor from the lathe to move it, I ended up cutting it off rather than remove the spindle first. (I had to leave behind the wooden stand since it was literally falling apart.) I considered lacing the old, cut belt back on. But I ended up contacting Baltimore Belting:http://baltimorebelting.com/ I measured the length I would need and called. Leather was pretty expensive so I got a synthetic with end clips. Total price was around $30 delivered in a couple of days. It fit perfectly and I have been using it since. They have been around since 1902, so I figured they had made a few SB lathe belts before.
 
Oh, forgot to mention that I put the rib in. I'll can tell you that on several occasions I have forgotten to disengage the back gear after removing the chuck, with both the back gear engaged and the lathe in direct drive all you hear is the blade squeal and if you don't stop it soon enough the belt will pop of the top sheave. I am using a 3/4 hp motor.
 
Thank you gentlemen for all of your suggestions, after doing a little more research i decided to try a serpentine belt on ebay.
i was able to get the correct size belt really cheap.
I chose a Goodyear belt 1.09" wide by 62.5" long Part # 8PK1590, the Part # 4080625 gives the same belt dimensions as well.
i was able to get the serpentine belt cheaper than the other belts listed as replacements for the SB lathes!!
thanks everyone for the help and suggestions!

thanks as always for looking!
 
Even though you chose the serpentine I did get a pic of my belt today, and darn it, I'm going to post it! :biggrin:

newSBbelt.JPG

The belt is 1.5" wide and has a number of layers and is tough as nails. It also has a rubbery-sticky feel to it and seems to grip beautifully. You do hear a slight "tic - tic" as the belt goes around but I'm used to that. If you don't like it you could probably put a piece of cloth tape on the underside and silence it.

Good luck with your belt choice. Be sure to give us a follow-up on how it works out for you.

-Ron

newSBbelt.JPG

newSBbelt.JPG
 
i also picked up another goodyear belt p/n 10PK1600.
this belt is 1.38" wide as opposed to the 1.09" from the other belt i purchased.
i'll be able to test both belts and give an analysis!

once again thanks for all the input!!!
feel free to post your own pictures and comments, they may help someone else someday!
[h=1][/h]
 
wbrown said:
While looking for a belt for my SB-16 I considered a quick fix using automotive 2" wide seatbelt material. I cut a piece from some stock my wife was using to build waist belts for large internal frame backpacks. I used a 12" overlap, glued it with shoe-Goo, clamped it using c-clamp type vise grips and 1/2" plywood pads. let i dry for a day or so. It was put into service over a year ago, runs quiet, doesn't slip, and is still in service. I use my SB-9 for small stuff but do miost of my turning on the SB-14. I've turned up to 14" dia. with this belt with no problem. I stopped looking for a replacement belt and have no intention of using anything different than the seat belt material
Click to expand...

Interesting....who'd of thunk.....seat belt material......now that's inventive. Kinda McGyver'd it.
 
As I was raised country in the deep South of La., you get good at being resourceful making do with what you have and can latch onto for a fair price or barter. :)

Love the "seat belting" drive belt use, which is what I would call resourceful indeed.

Over my lifetime, as I've always been around and tinkering with cars, trucks and equipment manufactured around the 1900's, being adept at working with leather for drive belts, fan and w/p's, leather clutches etc etc, you tend to stick with the old school train of thought. Cutting, trimming glueing and lacing leather just seems natural for me, but I'm not against taking a shortcut when it comes to getting something done when I'm in a bind and have no leather for the fix.

All good ideas on this thread.

Particularly, thanks for the link to "Al Binos" website. It will come in handy for a local project coming up for a Thrasher.
 
I had to same issue and bought something off eBAY. The pic vs the product didnt appear the same but it works.

As I live in a town in which there is a leather shop, I took my original belt to the lady at the shop and she will make me custom belt with the same dimensions as the original as well at link together. I will post a pic once its finished.

You may want to look around and see if there is a leather shop nearby were you live. It's amazing these machines are powered with leather belts.
 
Jerry457 said:
You may want to look around and see if there is a leather shop nearby were you live. It's amazing these machines are powered with leather belts.
Click to expand...

I know I'm a new poster to the forum, but I'd like to give a little info on leather belting used for equipment. Back in the 80's a group of friends within the AACA and equipment crowd started heated discussions on using leather belting, how to join the ends, what worked best etc etc etc.

So I made a belt for one particular gent/friend that had an antique washing machine and antique gas engine driven by belting.

I cut the leather in 4 places, skived/scarfed joints on two each and butt joined two joints opposing the others. One pair were glued and stitched and the others just stitched, both using gut for the lacing. This little jewel has made about 40 shows over the years and the owner has since stopped carrying the canvas rubber impregnated belting he was so worried that he would need. The glues used were two different 'animal rendering' glues of different formula.

I know that the intent of this thread is about 'ease of application' and ease of accessing materials needed, but just wanted to sway anyone who's thought that something newer might somehow be more durable than the other. :)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top