Another new owner of a VN 12

What part of the cutter head are you talking about?
I'm not sure what you're asking. I would like to see a photo of your cutter-head so that I can tell which one you have. There is an oil reservoir in the cutter-head that needs to be flushed and filled. Depending on the model of the cutter-head, the front bearing may be lubricated from the oil reservoir or lubricated with grease; either way, the bearings need to be cleaned and greased if they are of that type. This should be done without disassembling the spindle.

Cal
 
Yours is pretty darn similar to mine (even down to the crappy paint! LOL)....I opened the access cover just to put an eyeball on things....it uses grease (also has grease fittings for each bearing...but that doesn't always mean much).

DSC04525.jpg
 
Depending on the model of the cutter-head, the front bearing may be lubricated from the oil reservoir or lubricated with grease; either way, the bearings need to be cleaned and greased if they are of that type. This should be done without disassembling the spindle.

Cal

Cal, how do you recommend doing this? With grease fittings, I'm unsure of how to get kerosene or similar solvents in there to flush things out.....

I imagine I could try to "wash it out" from the inside, but I fear I'd push more crap into the bearings.
 
Yours is pretty darn similar to mine (even down to the crappy paint! LOL)....I opened the access cover just to put an eyeball on things....it uses grease (also has grease fittings for each bearing...but that doesn't always mean much).


I believe mine uses oil, but I'm not sure. They look the same minus the grease fittings.
 
Here are the pictures of the cutter head..


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...
Yours is pretty darn similar to mine (even down to the crappy paint! LOL)....I opened the access cover just to put an eyeball on things....it uses grease (also has grease fittings for each bearing...but that doesn't always mean much).

DSC04525.jpg
Actually these are two different generations of cutter head. Steve's is the first generation head. Note how the two clamp bolts on the bottom are exposed. On the later generation cutter-heads the front clamp bolts are enclosed in cored holes in the casting. Both of these heads have front and rear bearings that are lubricated by grease. W's has grease cups instead of Zerk fittings; I believe this is the type where the operator is supposed to give the cup's cap a twist every so often to force a bit of grease into the bearings.

The center cavity is where the ring and pinion gears are. They are lubricated with OIL. W, if your cutter-head is packed with grease, that's a problem. You need to clean it out and replace it with gear oil. Mobile DTE Heavy-Medium should be fine and is what you need in the ram and feed gearboxes as well.

On both styles of cutter-head there are front and rear bearing retainer caps/plates that are held on with socket-head cap screws. Pull the bearing retainer plates off and you can clean and flush the bearings.

One thing to be aware of is that there is no grease seal to keep grease from the rear bearing from getting into the center reservoir and contaminating the oil that lubricates the ring and pinion gear. Over the life of these machines over zealous maintenance workers often pump so much grease into the rear bearing that it gets forced into the center reservoir; not good.

Some guys go nuts trying to find the grease used in the 1940s. Trust me, if modern greases were available back then, they wouldn't have used the grease that they did. I use Mobilith SHC 100 grease for the spindle bearings. It's far superior to the greases available when these machines were new and you can use it to lube the motor bearings (assuming they are that type). It's a good idea to pull the bearing retainer caps and clean out any excess grease every second or third time you grease the bearings.

The easiest way to service the cutter-head is to remove it from the ram. The best way is to do that is to use a collet in the spindle to grip a section of round bar. Turn the spindle vertical and bring the table and vise up to the bottom of the spindle, so that the vise supports the end of the spindle. Clamp the other end of the bar in the vise and crank the table to the left as you back off the clamp bolts, jacking the cutter-head away from the ram.

With the cutter head off of the machine you can flush the bearings from the ends. I like to use a recirculating pump to recycle kerosene and power flush. You can use an automotive inline fuel filter to keep from circulating debris back into the bearings. Use fresh kerosene for your final flushes.

Cal
 
BTW Steve I see my daughter's bike in the background of your picture...

Cal thanks for the information. I guess I'll add head flush and cleaning to my long list of stuff to do.
 
Man, I was waiting for that!:rofl: I guess the secret is out....I'm not a professional...LOL. Just an old iron aficionado.

Cal, thanks for that GREAT info. I will be moving in a few months, and currently have the machine broken down into its major assemblies. I will probably not repaint before moving it, since it is likely to get some dings en route....but I will definitely clean, flush, and relube so that it is in prime condition when I get it back together.

I'm digging this thread!
 
A little update, I found a very broken and repaired lead screw support and the table has a small chuck missing around the bolt hole...

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i also decided I don't have time to do a full cleaning and repaint at this time so the plan is clean, lube, wire and then mill stuff... Here is the progress so far, the knee saddle and table are back on and the cutter head had no oil in it, it looks ok so here is hoping the oil leaked out after the machine had been taken out of service.


A7B4CC39-B292-4F3C-A72A-F049C5F6ED9E-4146-00000843C3941B77_zpsa9cd0ea2.jpg

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A little update, I found a very broken and repaired lead screw support and the table has a small chuck missing around the bolt hole...

... the cutter head had no oil in it, it looks ok so here is hoping the oil leaked out after the machine had been taken out of service.
The table right end brackets seem to get broken on the majority of No. 12s. I bet it's because the table is power fed to the left, running the bracket into the saddle. I note that both the permanaent and moveable stops on the right side of your table are missing. I don't know why so many of them get taken off. You'll want to replace them before you use the power feed.

Have a look at the teeth on the ring gear and see if there is obvious wear on the teeth.

Cal
 
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