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[4]

[How do I?] Adjust SBL 13 Saddle Gib

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Bamban

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#1
I read a few threads on how to adjust the apron/saddle gib on the SBL 13, I went through the rebuild manual I bought online, still I am not sure whether I accept the procedure as the optimum. Basically, the adjustment is running the bolt against the split lock washer and let the tension against the washer as the only thing holding its adjustment
Can't lock the washer solid or the apron/carriage won't move, so just play with how much to tighten the bolt against the split lock washer for best apron/carriage movement.

I do not trust the lock washer system, I am thinking about getting socket heads with thread locker on them.

What do you guys do with your SBL apron/saddle gib? Modified the gib system, or just stick with the standard procedure?
 
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4gsr

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#2
Can you show us a snap shot of the gib arrangement?
 

Bob Korves

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#4
I'm with your way of thinking, Nez. I would use some purple or blue (lower strength) Loctite and forget the lock washers.
 

Bamban

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#5
I'm with your way of thinking, Nez. I would use some purple or blue (lower strength) Loctite and forget the lock washers.
Thanks, Bob.

For now till I finally decide what to do with standard gib adjustmemt system I will Locktite the threads. I just finished cleaning the threads, and happen to have some Locktite 246 handy.


nez
 

4gsr

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#6
I have the same arrangement on my 9" SBL. I've always adjusted them finger snug. On bigger lathes, I've seen both lock washers and adjustable gibs being used. With a adjustable gib, you want to run at least .002" to .005" clearance minimum, set with feeler gage or thereabouts. Personally, on big lathes, I don't see where they serve any purpose, other than acting as a scraper, removing sludge that builds up on the underside of the bed rail. Never had a carriage rear up from abnormal operation on larger lathes. Generally with a taper attachment hanging on the back side, it's not going to rear up on you. Now, on my 9" SBL, it's reared up a few times in it's past.
 

rick9345

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#7
I have the same arrangement on my 9" SBL. I've always adjusted them finger snug. On bigger lathes, I've seen both lock washers and adjustable gibs being used. With a adjustable gib, you want to run at least .002" to .005" clearance minimum, set with feeler gage or thereabouts. Personally, on big lathes, I don't see where they serve any purpose, other than acting as a scraper, removing sludge that builds up on the underside of the bed rail. Never had a carriage rear up from abnormal operation on larger lathes. Generally with a taper attachment hanging on the back side, it's not going to rear up on you. Now, on my 9" SBL, it's reared up a few times in it's past.
If its rearing up best rethink the setup or ones ability/knowledge base.
 

Bamban

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#8
There is no front saddle gib on this SBL 13, I suppose SBL did not believe in them. Even my little 1024 has them, I wonder what is being given up without any saddle gibs.
 

4gsr

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#9
There is no front saddle gib on this SBL 13, I suppose SBL did not believe in them. Even my little 1024 has them, I wonder what is being given up without any saddle gibs.
Nothing. Again, no need for them. Tool pressures prevent any upward carriage movement on a normal operation. Unless you ran your cutting tools upside down and the spindle in reverse, that would be the only condition that could cause the carriage to raise up. But I doubt it. Smaller lathes, maybe. Like on my 20" L & S I had, there were gibs on the front of the saddle. When I went back together, they were left out. My dad even commented that they took them out on lathes he used to work on.
 

4gsr

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#10
If its rearing up best rethink the setup or ones ability/knowledge base.
It get's your attention quickly most of the time. Generally happens when you start rubbing a tool against your work instead of cutting in a rude way.
 
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