A couple questions about the Model C

[tcarboy]

Hello,

I recently picked up a Model C from Craigslist. It's a big step up from the Unimat SL-1000 I've been toying around with. I've been reading through How to Run a Lathe, and I bought a guide on disassembly and renovation, and I've got a couple questions I wanted to ask the community.



I've seen this ball-headed pin on the tailstock opposite the quill lock in a lot of images, and my lathe didn't come with it. I haven't seen it named in the parts diagrams. Is this just a mounting point on the tailstock for some accessory? Or am I missing something important?


The hinge pin on the headstock gear cover is bent, enough that the spindle rubs against the cover when it's fully closed. What is the best way to go about fixing this? Can I bend the pin back to square? Or is it hardened and likely to snap if I try? Should I drill it out and turn a replacement once I get the lathe cleaned up and running again? Should I just look for a new cover on EBay?

I appreciate any help you all can provide.

-Tom

 

[G2]

The "ball-headed pin" is actually a Dauber. The shallow well it sits in was filled with a lead based lubricant back in the day for lubricating dead centers. These went the way of the DoeDoe bird with the wide spread use of live centers. You can buy replacement on Ebay. I keep mine filled with High Pressure lubricant just in case I want it.
As far as the cover goes... I have bent mine back into position before. Its risky so go slow. If for some crazy reason the casting breaks, you arent out anything since the only other option is to replace the cover anyway. My .02

 

[Manual Mac]

remove the pin from the cover before trying to straighten. Don’t crack the cover.
and if the pin breaks who cares, you have the means to make another, just a pin.
i sold my DB200 (same basic lathe as sl1000) for parts. it had no motor, bad spindle bearings & a broker pully.
it Was an early one with the cast iron frame.
i kept the 2-1/2” 3 & 4 jaw chucks, made mandrels for them so I can use them on my SB9 & my rotary table.
and,,,I regret selling that DB200.
so it goes…..

 

[SLK001]

The pin is just set in with a babbitt pour. Just melt it out, position the pin correctly and re-pour the babbitt. The dauber info is correct.

 

[tcarboy]

Thanks for the heads up.

The "ball-headed pin" is actually a Dauber. The shallow well it sits in was filled with a lead based lubricant back in the day for lubricating dead centers. These went the way of the DoeDoe bird with the wide spread use of live centers. You can buy replacement on Ebay. I keep mine filled with High Pressure lubricant just in case I want it.
As far as the cover goes... I have bent mine back into position before. Its risky so go slow. If for some crazy reason the casting breaks, you arent out anything since the only other option is to replace the cover anyway. My .02

Thanks for the info about the dauber! Now that I know the name I'm finding all sorts of info about it, including dimensions to turn my own.

The pin is just set in with a babbitt pour. Just melt it out, position the pin correctly and re-pour the babbitt. The dauber info is correct.

What temperature does babbitt melt at? I was thinking whether or not to hit it with a torch before I started bending it, I would have felt like a real idiot if things started melting unexpectedly.

 

[Manual Mac]

Or you could just try straightening it while in the cover.
but first ask yourself “Do I Feel Lucky?
Did your SB9C come with change gears & a thread dial?

 

[Jim F]

The dauber should be made from brass.
Mine has a steel plug right now.

 

[tcarboy]

Or you could just try straightening it while in the cover.
but first ask yourself “Do I Feel Lucky?
Did your SB9C come with change gears & a thread dial?

It's got all the change gears including the 127/100 tooth compound gear, a 3 jaw and a 4 jaw chuck. No thread dial, unfortunately.

 

[derf]

Read this: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/9a-project-completed.72707/

 

[Manual Mac]

This is what I do with the empty dauber hole..
I am NOT advocating this. Do @ yer own risk.
Yes, I’ve already been told I will break the tail stock casting doing this. And then go to machinist hell.
i made the holster out of a brass fitting machined VERY thin for a breakage failsafe.
Made this mod 35 yrs ago, & haven’t lost the chuck key since. Or broken the tail stock. Knock wood.
reproduction thread dials can be obtained pretty cheap. With this & your change gears threading will be fun.
Cheers!