5/8 Straight Boring Head Shanks (7/8-20)

If you look close, I think you will find one hiding in a pice of round stock in the pile. You will just need to chuck it up in the lathe and cut away every thing that doesn't look like the arbor you need. I find all sorts of things that way.
 
If you look close, I think you will find one hiding in a pice of round stock in the pile. You will just need to chuck it up in the lathe and cut away every thing that doesn't look like the arbor you need. I find all sorts of things that way.
Thanks, Michelangelo.
 
Takes 1/2 hour to machine one and maybe half of that is finding the stock in the junk pile.lol you can do it!!!!!
 
Very easy to make, if you have a lathe, and if you know how to thread.

Smoke Walker, if you have a lathe, but are new to threading, there are people here that will walk you through it. If it is your first time, you may end up with a few pieces of precision scrap. Consider them trophies. And hang them on the wall.

Please let us know should you decide to thread this yourself and want some help. There might even be a HM in the Chicago are who might be willing/able to give you hands on mentorship.

Daryl
MN
 
Very easy to make, if you have a lathe, and if you know how to thread.

Smoke Walker, if you have a lathe, but are new to threading, there are people here that will walk you through it. If it is your first time, you may end up with a few pieces of precision scrap. Consider them trophies. And hang them on the wall.

Please let us know should you decide to thread this yourself and want some help. There might even be a HM in the Chicago are who might be willing/able to give you hands on mentorship.

Daryl
MN

Takes 1/2 hour to machine one and maybe half of that is finding the stock in the junk pile.lol you can do it!!!!!
Why not just make the whole thing, easy project to do…Good Luck, Dave.

I do have a lathe!
And if there is anyone in Chicago who can help and is up for a trip to the far northwest side (!), I might be game. Send me a PM. I have a lot of work to do in the next few weeks, and
  • Even if I just reduced the diameter of one of the 3/4" ones, this seems like a job that should probably be done between centers, so I'd need to get a lathe dog, which I don't have.
  • I have done non-precision threading before, but for this I'd need to do an accurate 60º thread, and while in principle I should be fine, I'm a little nervous since I've got some projects that need to get finished ASAP, and I want to avoid losing any time if I can help it.
  • Also, I've never ground a 60º cutting tool. I have a fish gauge, and I imagine I could work it out, but the cost/benefit analysis makes me wonder if it would be more productive and efficient to just shell out the money and buy the part ready made.
 
Even if I just reduced the diameter of one of the 3/4" ones, this seems like a job that should probably be done between centers, so I'd need to get a lathe dog, which I don't have.

Consider that the boring head shank does not need to be an absolute precision job. The head is offset anyway to bore a hole. The most important is that the face of the flange is true to the shank so the head doesn't wobble. Chucking on the shank and facing the flange is all you need there. The shank needs to be on-size and not tapered for a good fit in the holder. The threaded end only needs to be a pretty good fit, this is done by test fitting as you are threading. It is not important that the threads are exactly concentric with the shank, unless your lathe chuck is in really bad shape, it's close enough.
 
Consider that the boring head shank does not need to be an absolute precision job. The head is offset anyway to bore a hole. The most important is that the face of the flange is true to the shank so the head doesn't wobble. Chucking on the shank and facing the flange is all you need there. The shank needs to be on-size and not tapered for a good fit in the holder. The threaded end only needs to be a pretty good fit, this is done by test fitting as you are threading. It is not important that the threads are exactly concentric with the shank, unless your lathe chuck is in really bad shape, it's close enough.
Right!
This makes the turning down of the 3/4" sound much more manageable. What do you think about just chucking the flange in my 3 jaw (I'd use a 4 jaw independent, but I don't have one) and turning down the end of the shank to 5/8"?
 
Please keep us posted on progress!
Mount the trophies on the wall.
When you get frustrated years from now you can look up at them and think about how far you've come.

Daryl
MN
 
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