4X6 band saw

[ltlvt]

I am looking for a source to get parts and a parts diagram for my 4X6 horizontal band saw. It is What I would call a reverse clone of the Harbor Freight saw. Being that I have had it for at least 35 years I don't think HF was born yet. I bought it from Tractor Supply when Tractor supply still was a tractor store. LOL When I load the saw down the blade binds and then comes off. The top ball bearing rollers that should hold the blade are letting the blade slip to one side and then off the roller causing the blade to get pinched by one of the side rollers. The saw still works but I get tired of putting the blade back on and would just like to go ahead and do a serious cleaning and replace all the bearings while I have it down. Also going to build a better table/stand and get rid of the cheesy Sheetmetal stand. Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

[hotrats]

Years ago, I purchased and rebuilt a HF looking band saw. the bearings were available on Amazon, very cheap. YouTube has many videos on things to tweak and improve. Oddly enough, just yesterday I started making a new motor mount for my band saw. One tip I can share - if you start doing that, plan and make all cuts of metal you'll need "before" taking saw apart.... (don't even need to state "ask me how I know")

 

[markba633csi]

All the bearings should be standard types available anywhere- I got all mine from a bearing house on Ebay when I rebuilt my saw
The numbers are printed on the outer races
Blades popping off can be a couple things- oily or mis-aligned drive wheels, too much downforce, blade twist or pinch

 

[C-Bag]

My HF 4x6 was bought in ’79 and they were down in LA earlier than that. The only thing I’ve replaced in 45yrs is the guide bearings and like has been mentioned all bearings on them are available. The Jet 4x6 at work was always jumping and the culprit was the bearings in the gearbox that hold drive wheel. They were super cheap and replaced them with decent sealed bearings, grease in the gearbox along with the guide bearings and it might still be going AFAIK.

 

[markba633csi]

I think I read someplace that you want to adjust the spring for somewhere between 5-8 pounds of downforce
on saws without a hydraulic cylinder

 

[ltlvt]

I think I read someplace that you want to adjust the spring for somewhere between 5-8 pounds of downforce
on saws without a hydraulic cylinder

How is this done?

 

[C-Bag]

To my mind the most crucial adjustment was tension on the blade. I’ve always tensioned it enough where if the blade stuck it would slip. The old Jet I mentioned the roving band of destructive shop bozo’s would always over tighten the blade to be able to take them standing there pressing down on the saw instead of just letting it feed. This wore out the bearing in the gearbox which made the drive wheel cant and not track, jumping the blade under too much pressure. So they would tighten the blade even tighter and on the downward spiral went until it would not keep a blade on under drive. When the bozo’s abandoned it I was able to go in and repair it. We had a good working saw for the last 6mo I was there.

Feed pressure on any bandsaw is dependent on the material. Personally I prefer my spring to hydraulic.

 

[C-Bag]

How is this done?

I use my eyes and ears like with all machines I use. But maybe you could use a fishing scale?

 

[homebrewed]

I use my eyes and ears like with all machines I use. But maybe you could use a fishing scale?

That's what I use.

 

[Larry$]

How is this done?

There is a threaded rod connected to the spring. Tightening or loosening the spring tension helps, sort of. When I'm cutting thin stuff I just keep my hand on the head so it doesn't plunge & bind up.