4 Jaw Chuck

[Heckle and Jeckle]

Mounted the 4 jaw chuck, and went to school indicating a work piece. Watched a couple of videos before attempting the dance. Using two chuck keys machinist make it look like a no brainier.

Made a few feeble attempts to copy the moves, going around the chuck (laughing @ myself) in circles. Started to understand the concept, and developed my own routine using a single chuck key.

Came together nicely, I'll go back a few times just to indicate some different size and shape of bar. I like the 4 jaw and the goal is to use it most of the time.

A question, other than the expense & holding power of a 6 jaw chuck are there other advantages to know about?

Greg

 

[bfd]

6 jaw chucks work well on thin walled material less crush and distortion bill

 

[Bob Korves]

They work really well on hex stock... But then, a three jaw works pretty well on hex, too. I have never used a six jaw, and I assume that they are pretty much all scroll chucks, not independent jaws... Yes, I also understand that they hold round and hex stock really well.

 

[tomh]

Just remember to tighten on the high # and to loosen on the low#. I was taught that method in my shop class in the late 1960s. Once you get used to dialing in your work you may even save yourself a lot of money as you will gravitate to a 4 jaw regularly and find other chucks unnecessary.
abom79 is a good one to watch as he regularly goes to a 4 jaw and will dial it in fast.
Think of your 4 jaw as the do all Mack truck of machining.

 

[Heckle and Jeckle]

Just remember to tighten on the high # and to loosen on the low#. I was taught that method in my shop class in the late 1960s. Once you get used to dialing in your work you may even save yourself a lot of money as you will gravitate to a 4 jaw regularly and find other chucks unnecessary.
abom79 is a good one to watch as he regularly goes to a 4 jaw and will dial it in fast.
Think of your 4 jaw as the do all Mack truck of machining.

I agree and is why I decided to just throw it on and learn how to get along with it.

I like this "tighten on the high # and loosen on the low#" good to keep in mind proper thinking !

Thanks,
Greg

 

[kingmt01]

I started using mostly a 4 jaw but as time has why on I find myself using the 3 jaw mostly. It doesn't bother me to dial in a 4 jaw & at times it's a must use or at least the easiest way. What I have learned over the years is no matter which chuck is on the lathe it's not going to be the one you'd rather use for the next job.

 

[ndnchf]

If you have not done so already, do yourself a favor and make a toolpost mount for your dial indicator. Something like this, with its own dedicated tool holder adjusted for center height, makes dialing in a 4 chuck much easier. It takes 10 seconds to install on the tool post, then you are ready to dial in the jaws.

 

[tweinke]

With repetition dialing in stock gets easier. When I use my four jaw it usually gets put on and left there for a while so l use it for everything. Takes a bit to get back into the swing of it.

 

[David S]

Can't help with the 6 jaw chuck question. I use the 4 jaw all the time. For most non critical work I just put a tool in the QCTP loosely and bring it up to the high point and use it as a reference.

For more accurate stuff I use the dial indicator and if you don't have a back lug one like in the photo above this is what I use.


David

 

[Paul in OKC]

One thing I have done when using the 4 jaw regularly is first measure between opposing jaws and set that close to part dimension. While doing that, use the scale on the outer side, measure the distance between the chuck and the jaw and set that equal. This will keep you close to center. After a while you can make a chart with the numbers on the outer side for a few diameters and set up is pretty easy. (Hope this makes sense )