3 jaw and 4 jaw Chuck sizes

Back years ago when we were still drawing on the board with a pencil we use to say the trick is to pick up on the pencil just before the lead broke... I suspect that is similar the the line between use and abuse.....
I enjoyed drawing on a board with pencils and my old Universal Drafting Machine from the WW-1 era, I think that drawings made manually, with some enhancements such as line work can be made much clear as to what one is looking at than CAD drawings, having said that, I have too much tremor to draw any more. A nicely drawn object can be a work of art; I have a drawing of a marine compound steam engine done in black India ink and shaded with several other colors of ink that is a master work.
 
I keep looking a the 6 jaw chucks, I hear they center better than the 3 jaws do and have some adjustment for dialing them in....
They are nice. They put less pressure on the work piece, so they leave fainter marks. I wouldn't say they center better, but they provide more support for the work. My first real grown-up's chuck was a 6 jaw set tru. I don't know if it was the quality or the number of jaws, but I loved using it. Going up to a 17" lathe, I have 4 Bisons now, so picking up a six jaw just because I like them would be financially stupid. Why can't 6-jaw chucks spontaneously accumulate in my backyard and on my roof the way Nerf footballs seem to?
 
I keep looking a the 6 jaw chucks, I hear they center better than the 3 jaws do and have some adjustment for dialing them in....

No reason they should center better than a 3J, if anything they are worse because they require the stock to be perfectly round otherwise the stock will move. They have less holding power than a 3J, they are also much worse to clean the swarf out. They apply pressure evenly for thin wall work, and some gunsmiths seem to prefer them maybe because the pressure on any individual jaw is less, but what I see most commonly used is a 4J independent or some fixture/spider. Combination chucks give you a bit of both worlds, they give one the ability to quickly switch out stock and then tweak the TIR as needed, but they are heavy and tend to be slightly wider than standard chucks. I have the 8" Bison combination and it is a great chuck for a wide range of stock, but they are heavy and when doing a a lot of repetitive tasks I revert to my PBA Setrite which is a 6.25" chuck, and for anything under 1" I use 5C collets. One also needs to think of the size of the jaws and doing any work close to the chuck. An 8" scroll chuck can be a bit of a beast if you mostly deal with smaller stock, but may ne desirable if you have a larger spindle bore on your lathe.

Set-tru, Setrite, micro-adjustable chucks are not commonly used to center stock on an individual bases, you set them to dial down the TIR and leave them there. It is more for repetitive work in/out of the chuck with multiple ops. Most new ones will repeat at 0.0004" or better depending on the size and brand. I do a lot of repetitive work, so this factors into using them for my 6.25" and 5C chucks. Chucks should last a lifetime in a hobbyist scenario, I went through several cheaper chucks before ending up with the ones I have. Bottom line, if you can afford it buy a better chuck up front so you are not replacing it down the line. I do have the PM/QMT 8" 4J independents chuck, I use it for messy work and holding odd size material, it has performed well and smooth to 2000+ RPM, which most of the generic chucks were a lot worse. I rarely use it, but happy I have it.

On a scroll/self centering chuck you can flip the jaws and hang them out pretty far, but you really want at least 4 teeth in the scroll, as others mentioned less than that any you are more likely to break the teeth when tightening.

Bison 4L combination you can quickly aero the TIR, and they will repeat (scroll) to 0.001", the 8" can also hold small stock down to 0.2", which I would never do with a 3J. Indicator below is 0.0001" and you dial the work down to where the movement only represents the stock uniformity.
Bison Combo TIR Zero 2.jpg

Flip the jaws and you should be able to hold close to 8", you also nee to factor in jaw swing on a smaller lathe.
Bison Combo Maximum Internal Jaws Clamping.jpg
 
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Common sense would dictate being careful not to overtighten the jaws when they are extended really far out.
It's a balancing act since one doesn't want the workpiece to come loose. A bit too much force on the chuck key and CRACK
Someday it will get me, hasn't yet
 
I have chucks from 6"-12.5" and while I really like my 6" set tru type 6 jaw, I don't think a 6 jaw in the 6" range is a great bargain. They are expensive, the jaws tend to be more delicate, and as Mark has aid, they accumulate crud. I have a 6" and a 10" combo Bison and they are also expensive but probably a better value than a 6 jaw as they are more versatile. I particularly like that i can set the stock in the four jaw and then loosen each jaw and slip a soft shim in and then dial in like an independent chuck but still use it as a scroll 90% of the time. You want a stout spindle as the work is a long ways from the bearings and that causes some stress although you don't take heavy cuts with a 12x36 machine. A regular independent chuck is much lighter and easier on the machine, a little tougher on the operator.

Also keep in mind that in your chuck bolts from the front, you don't really need a set tru as you can adjust the plate enough without the set screws and then bolt it down hard.

Finally, in a larger chuck like my 12", a 6 jaw is a joy to use and my favorite.

Dave
 

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This is strange.... Somehow, I have two threads with the same name. Like a double post. Maybe one of the admins can delete the other one with only three responses?
 
I was looking at Precision Mathews web site and there 6" 3 jaw comes with a D1-4 back plate (which my lathe has) and the 8" 3 jaw comes with a D1-5 back plate.

I have been kicking around the idea of buying an 8" 3 jaw adjustable chuck. I wonder If I will be able to get a D1-4 back plate for their 8" chuck.
 
I was looking at Precision Mathews web site and there 6" 3 jaw comes with a D1-4 back plate (which my lathe has) and the 8" 3 jaw comes with a D1-5 back plate.

I have been kicking around the idea of buying an 8" 3 jaw adjustable chuck. I wonder If I will be able to get a D1-4 back plate for their 8" chuck.

If you regularly work on pieces that large that won't fit in a 6" chuck, then you need a lathe with more horsepower anyway. Smaller chuck is lighter, easier to manipulate, could be higher precision, higher RPM, less rotating mass. Match the chuck to the work. You don't just buy a bigger one because it's bigger than the neighbors.
 
On a scroll/self centering chuck you can flip the jaws and hang them out pretty far, but you really want at least 4 teeth in the scroll, as others mentioned less than that any you are more likely to break the teeth when tightening.
If I followed the four tooth rule, the largest diameter that I could mount in my 5" 3 jaw with the internal jaws is 3/4". In my 4" 3 jaw, it is 3/16". Actually, it is worse than that since there are only three scroll teeth to engage the jaws at any given position; two on the 4".
 
I agree that you do want to overwhelm the machine. I think the reason most recommend a slightly larger independent chuck is that they are lighter than the typical scroll chuck with a separate backplate. I have an 8" scroll and a Jacobs rubberflex for my big Monarch as starting and stopping is so much easier and faster with less rotating mass, especially for threading. My CVA which is basically a 10ee with a 12.5" swing ( as is the 10ee ) but a much heavier build than your 12x36 runs a 6" chuck almost all of the time. The 8" is usually set for outside jaws and larger stuff. Dave
 
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