2015 POTD Thread Archive

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I spent some quality time in my shop today making a drive adapter for a co-worker. There are actually 2 guy's that I work with that have started hot rodding riding lawn mowers. The bar stock that I had on hand was as far as I can tell by the color code on end of the bar indicated it was 4340. All cutting was done @ 720 rpm and .010" depth of cut and .100" IPR, with tcmt 21.51 carbide inserts107230 . Hopefully the recipient will be as happy with it as I am!
 
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almost forgot , earlier last week I had been commissioned to make a fiber wad cutter for a friend here in town that belongs to our gun club that shoots cowboy action with brass shot shellsIMG_1150_1.JPG IMG_1152_1.JPG . The main cutter is turned from 4140 ( heavy truck air brake cam shaft ) then using a slotting saw on the milling machine I cut the teeth.
 
Yesterday, I put up some more pegboard. Cut a 4x8 sheet in half lengthwise, framed on the back with furring strips, and secured it to the south wall of the shop. They're mounted opposite of the workbenches, mirroring what is already on the north wall.

My buddy George came over, bringing a cooler full of brown soda "aka beer", which he makes himself. And he does a dang good job. As always, the conversation drifted towards machining, so I grabbed a chunk of 3/4" bar out of the scrap bin, and he turned it down a tad. I cut some reliefs with a parting tool, then showed him how to single point thread. Arbitrary sizes, but the goal of the lesson was to teach him the procedure and method. Forgot to grab a pic of the finished product, but he's got a nice desk widget now. I cut an inch of 13TPI threads to demonstrate, then he cut two 1" sections of 20TPI and 8TPI. The stock being CRS, and turning much too slow for a good cut, the threads looked less than optimal, but I kept the speed down so he could go through the routine at a sane pace. He did good. Then we celebrated with some brown soda. :)

Today, I have yardwork, and to fix the garage door opener. The coupler from the opener unit to the screw split into pieces because it's mis-aligned. I'll have to drop the whole unit and put some washers in to get it aligned properly. Not a major undertaking, but a pain in the nether regions nonetheless.

So, off to get busy. I may even get a little shop time this evening, but who knows.
 
Bit of a short story to start, but I finally got to go fishing on Lake Erie last Thursday for perch and possibly walleye. Bought $25 worth of emerald shiner minnows and some fat dew worms for my spinner rigs for the eyes. There were many other boaters spread all over the water. My sonar was marking hundreds of fish - some on bottom and some suspended 25 feet down in 50 foot of water. With thousands of dollars worth of lures and a dozen fishing methods, you would think I could choose one that would entice a fish to bite. For all my time and trouble, between my son and I, I caught one GOBY !:bawling:
Still feeling a little down Friday morning, I went and picked up a new Mitutoyo 3 axis digital readout for the milling machine. :laughing: Spent the balance of Friday removing the old Acu-rite Unit and scales, cleaning the milling machine, and making up slotted brackets. Saturday was spent installing. Today I will fit a few aluminum angle guards over the scales.
My oldest son took the boat out Saturday with his girlfriend. When he dropped the boat off he had already been home where he filleted 8 smallmouth bass which he brought over for a feed. (I'm glad I taught him how to fish!):drool:

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If anyone has a use for this fully functional Acu-rite without scales, they can have it for $50 plus cost of shipping. Send me a pm.

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I lived in Monroe, MI as a kid near Lake Erie, you brought back fond memories.
 
Today, I got a little bit of shop time in. I stopped by Home Depot to grab some plant stuff for the wife, and remembered that I needed a bag of perlite while I was there. Snagged one on the way out.

When I got home, I hung up the stag horn fern that she'd gotten recently, then got busy.

I have some chilled cast iron scrap that I'd like to turn into something useful. Unfortunately, the only thing that seems to cut it is a grinding disc, and that's not my idea of a fun project. Sorta hard to hold good tolerances with an angle grinder, too. So, I need to heat the crap out of it, and let it cool. I don't like running the big furnace for that, as it drinks propane like soda on a hot day, and my hobby funds are severely depleted. Used my last $5 on a bag of perlite.
I already had fireplace cement on-hand (purchased in Tennessee when we visited, it isn't available in FL apparently...)
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Yeah, it's got 'miracle grow' in it. I'll stand upwind when I get some heat on it. ;)

I drilled a hole in the coffee can, then used a nibbler to enlarge it. No fancy templates for this, it's a quick-n-dirty job. Gotta stay hydrated too.
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Some elbow grease and two pairs of nitrile gloves later, I've mixed up enough refractory. You'll use a surprising amount of perlite in this. Some of it gets pulverized, but eventually it'll get mixed in good. A few splashes of water go a long way in making the cement a lot more mixable. Not too much water, though. It should be the consistency of thick, sticky dough. I'll pass on the taste test though.
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I didn't get any pictures of ramming the coffee can up with the stuff. Mostly because it's incredibly messy, and I didn't want to chance getting smears of this indelible goop on my tablet. I used my hands to ram the mix in good, and a piece of 1" conduit cut at an angle on the end (around 30-40 degrees, I just eyeballed it, it isn't critical) was put in place to serve as the tuyere. Tuere. Teuyeyweir.....

The pipe the burner goes in.

After getting the bottom rammed in up to the level of the pipe the burner goes in, I inserted the pipe, eyeballed it to the appropriate wall thickness I wanted, and resumed packing the stuff in. A half inch more in the bottom, forming a shallow depression, and I began packing it up the sides. Once I had a nearly uniform thickness, I shoved a plastic container into the middle and rammed around it with a wooden dowel. Filled in the newly created voids, and repeated until it was full. Removed the plastic container, and smoothed the sides a little bit.

I stuck a MAPP gas torch in the pipe the burner goes in, with barely a flame on it, and put a piece of plate steel over the top. Let that run for 15-20 minutes to get some heat into the thing, then killed the torch and covered the hole in the plate to keep the heat in. I do not recommend firing this mix up to operating temperature immediately, but I wanted the bore to get a little crispy so it wouldn't slump.
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It's a 3 lb coffee can, maybe a 3-3½" cavity in the middle.

I need to fabricate a little baby burner for this thing. I have a 3/4" venturi burner for the regular foundry, but that's *way* overkill for this thing. I think a 1/4" burner or so will work just fine. Don't scoff at a 1/4" burner, either. It ain't no little Benzomatic torch....

So, by this weekend, it should be cured enough that I can use it to soften up that dang chilled cast iron, provided I can knock together the burner for it. Gotta go dig through my scrap and see what's on-hand. I think I have the fittings and materials I need for it. I know, everybody's gonna want pictures. I'll try to remember to get some while I'm working.

So far, I have about $15 into this tiny little furnace. It's just the ticket to melt a teacup sized crucible of aluminum. ;)
 
Making a tap
Last week, as I described in my "Greg's French 75 mm Field Artillery Model" thread, I made a pair of tapered reamers.
Today, not for that long-term project, another POTD task, supporting the repair of a 4 Kw generator. Specifically, the carburetor had a stripped thread, and of course it was not one I had a tap. In this case, it is a 5/16 - 32 UNEF (as in Extra Fine) thread. None of the local stores had the tap, nor did they have a bolt to use as an expedient starting point.
So I turned down a short piece of 3/8" drill rod and single-point threaded it, making a bottoming tap. Then milled two longitudinal grooves into the threads, and flats on the other end for a tap wrench. I was worried the end mill would mess with the extra fine threads, but that didn't happen.
Since this is just to clean up the buggered threads in the pot metal carburetor, I will not (yet) bother to harden and temper it.
Here is the tap, along with the screw that will use its resulting hole.
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Followup on the prior posting: - the tap worked fine. I guess I'll engrave it with "5/16 - 32 UNEF", heat treat it, and add to my collection of odd taps. For some other POTD, I need to make a better storage container for my UNC taps and dies. Back around 1977, I got a cheap set at a garage sale for maybe $3 and still have the sheet metal/styrofoam tray that still works but doesn't hold my whole collection. I suppose the easy way would be to drill and route holes into a 2x4 and make a matching top. As I gradually augment my collection with additional taps (e.g. bottoming taps as needed, and most recently, some size 0, 1, 2, and 4 for my in progress artillery scale model), maybe I'll leave open holes for a complete set. And for storage and access, I'd make a few separate boxes rather than one monster unit. A box for #12 and below, another for 1/4" and up. Anybody got ideas on this? (My metric taps and dies are a rather new Craftsman set, and are in a molded plastic case.)
Greg
 
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