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2014 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter Smudgemo
- Start date
Outstanding work, I did the same thing 40 years ago and still using them today, only difference is I used Copper as it does not fatigue like brass. I made mine from scrap electrical buss bars that were 1 1/2 square stock.
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- Joined
- Dec 29, 2012
- Messages
- 394
As a part from an on-going cnc transformation, in my shop today I tried to make threads to a ballnut from 1605 Chinese ballscrew.
My 7x12 lathe and screw cutting tool managed to just scratch the surface of the ball nut!!!
So I had to improvise!!!
A new more powerful lathe from Santa would be the solution but I think is too heavy for him to carry.
I thought when a big machine, like the lathe, cannot do the job and a bigger machine is unavailable, a wise man should try a even smaller machine (dont think that I am a wise man though!!!)
It was time for my good old dremel to prove its versatility and any other capabilities it has!
I secured it to the tool holder of the Lathe and used it instead of the threading tool.
An hour later and numerous forward and reverse passes of the dremel the ballnut has its threads (sort of).
As these threads are not exactly as they should a special nut, with added security would be a necessity.
Here is the special nut with "locking capabilities"
And the nut on the ballnut
Thank you for reading
Petros
My 7x12 lathe and screw cutting tool managed to just scratch the surface of the ball nut!!!
So I had to improvise!!!
A new more powerful lathe from Santa would be the solution but I think is too heavy for him to carry.
I thought when a big machine, like the lathe, cannot do the job and a bigger machine is unavailable, a wise man should try a even smaller machine (dont think that I am a wise man though!!!)
It was time for my good old dremel to prove its versatility and any other capabilities it has!
I secured it to the tool holder of the Lathe and used it instead of the threading tool.
An hour later and numerous forward and reverse passes of the dremel the ballnut has its threads (sort of).
As these threads are not exactly as they should a special nut, with added security would be a necessity.
Here is the special nut with "locking capabilities"
And the nut on the ballnut
Thank you for reading
Petros
I've been thinking about a lathe spindle-bore stop for a while, but had no "3AM epiphanies" waking me up. Then I saw a post on another forum of maybe using a Harbor Freight exhaust pipe expander. Seemed ideal. The small one would fit my spindle bore. http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/exhaust/small-tail-pipe-expander-69550-9156.html
The original threaded rod in the expander is 12x1.5mm with a 17mm nut. A 7/16-14 rod with a 11/16 nut is a perfect replacement. I decided a hollow threaded-rod with a smaller threaded rod through it would work for a stop. So, a 7/16-14 hollow threaded rod ??? Junk box to the rescue. A 1/8" black pipe has a slightly smaller O.D. than a 7/16-14 thread and has a slightly larger I.D. than a 1/4-20 rod. I decided that one expander would be a hassle to use, so I went with two, one on each end of the spindle bore. Ran a die down each end of the 1/8" pipe, far enough to have a nut and jam nut at the end of the expander. This acts as a fixed stop for the inboard end of that expanders. The 1/4-20 rod needed a way to be centered, adjusted, and locked. I made two threaded caps for the threaded pipe. Drilled one for clearance of the 1/4-20 rod. The other was drilled and tapped for 1/4-20. A nut on the rod on the left end of the spindle allowed for stop-depth adjustment and locking. Tightening the outboard nuts on the expanders, over the extended 1/4 -20 rod and caps was a problem. Too much for even deep sockets. Since not much torque is needed, I bored a 11/16 socket a much as possible and brazed it to the end of a piece of 3/4" electrical conduit...and now I have a "very" deep socket.
So you slide the assemble into the spindle, hold the left end of the pipe while using the deep socket to expand the chunk-end expander. Then use the socket to expand the one in the other end. Now you can loosen the 1/4" jam nut, screw the 1/4" rod in or out to set the stop depth, and tighten the nut. The concept was for short stock in the chuck. The length of the 1/8 pipe could be changed if you want the stop to be deeper in the spindle. Still trying to think of an easy way to use just one expander.
Anyway, this works for me.
Ken
The original threaded rod in the expander is 12x1.5mm with a 17mm nut. A 7/16-14 rod with a 11/16 nut is a perfect replacement. I decided a hollow threaded-rod with a smaller threaded rod through it would work for a stop. So, a 7/16-14 hollow threaded rod ??? Junk box to the rescue. A 1/8" black pipe has a slightly smaller O.D. than a 7/16-14 thread and has a slightly larger I.D. than a 1/4-20 rod. I decided that one expander would be a hassle to use, so I went with two, one on each end of the spindle bore. Ran a die down each end of the 1/8" pipe, far enough to have a nut and jam nut at the end of the expander. This acts as a fixed stop for the inboard end of that expanders. The 1/4-20 rod needed a way to be centered, adjusted, and locked. I made two threaded caps for the threaded pipe. Drilled one for clearance of the 1/4-20 rod. The other was drilled and tapped for 1/4-20. A nut on the rod on the left end of the spindle allowed for stop-depth adjustment and locking. Tightening the outboard nuts on the expanders, over the extended 1/4 -20 rod and caps was a problem. Too much for even deep sockets. Since not much torque is needed, I bored a 11/16 socket a much as possible and brazed it to the end of a piece of 3/4" electrical conduit...and now I have a "very" deep socket.
So you slide the assemble into the spindle, hold the left end of the pipe while using the deep socket to expand the chunk-end expander. Then use the socket to expand the one in the other end. Now you can loosen the 1/4" jam nut, screw the 1/4" rod in or out to set the stop depth, and tighten the nut. The concept was for short stock in the chuck. The length of the 1/8 pipe could be changed if you want the stop to be deeper in the spindle. Still trying to think of an easy way to use just one expander.
Anyway, this works for me.
Ken
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2013
- Messages
- 790
You can accomplish something very similar to this with expanding rubber plugs sold at Menards and most hardware stores. I used three of them to make a manual crank handle that uses the internal bore of the spindle. Adapting it to make an internal stop plug would be quick, easy, and cheap. Just change out the washer by the adjustment nut with one that fits inside the spindle bore. I also turned down the rubber part of the plug until it was a nice fit for the spindle bore.
GG
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,575
KMoffett, I think you've made yourself a very useful accessory there. Most of all, I enjoy the adaptation of available parts to achieve a new purpose.
It's said that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I hope you're flattered because I intend to imitate the hell out of your stop.
Here are two additional ideas that have occurred to me and might be useful to yourself or others. For the central tube, I'm going to use a steel lamp pipe which comes fully threaded and 36" long. I'll need to buy (or make) the mating nuts also. The lamp pipe is available in 3 different diameters to suite ones specific purpose. Here's a link to a source: http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/product/2103_36-seamless-all-thread-pipe
The second thing I intend to try is to cover both expander ODs with an elastomeric tube to maximize grip at minimum pressure on the spindle.
Thanks for sharing your project.
It's said that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I hope you're flattered because I intend to imitate the hell out of your stop.
Here are two additional ideas that have occurred to me and might be useful to yourself or others. For the central tube, I'm going to use a steel lamp pipe which comes fully threaded and 36" long. I'll need to buy (or make) the mating nuts also. The lamp pipe is available in 3 different diameters to suite ones specific purpose. Here's a link to a source: http://www.antiquelampsupply.com/product/2103_36-seamless-all-thread-pipe
The second thing I intend to try is to cover both expander ODs with an elastomeric tube to maximize grip at minimum pressure on the spindle.
Thanks for sharing your project.
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- Joined
- Oct 4, 2011
- Messages
- 727
Off this week so getting some shop time. Got 3 projects done today.
Project 1 is a new bench light with magnifier. The head was from an old lamp that the spring had broken. The base is an old computer monitor arm.
Project 2 is a holder for hookup wire for my electronics bench. The ends are .125" aluminum. The body was made out of 2" PVC couplers. The 2" pipe was to small inside and the 3" was way to large but the couplers were just right inside. I turned a stepped lip on each of them and glued them together. I made an end cap so I could turn the outer length and hold the end with a live center.
Project 3 I added a tool holder to my sheet metal break. It takes 3 tools to make adjustments to the break.
Project 1 is a new bench light with magnifier. The head was from an old lamp that the spring had broken. The base is an old computer monitor arm.
Project 2 is a holder for hookup wire for my electronics bench. The ends are .125" aluminum. The body was made out of 2" PVC couplers. The 2" pipe was to small inside and the 3" was way to large but the couplers were just right inside. I turned a stepped lip on each of them and glued them together. I made an end cap so I could turn the outer length and hold the end with a live center.
Project 3 I added a tool holder to my sheet metal break. It takes 3 tools to make adjustments to the break.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,394
that is one sweet articulating magnifier church, lovely job!
I finally finished making the brackets for my replacement Z "DRO" for my minilathe. Lots of fiddly set ups and it didn't help when I realised I could have simply used some right angle for one of them afterwards
Anyway, it seems to work a treat and I'm pumped at having a read out for the full 4in travel of my compound.
also got the 1st lick of paint on the paper mache dragon I'm helping my daughter make
I finally finished making the brackets for my replacement Z "DRO" for my minilathe. Lots of fiddly set ups and it didn't help when I realised I could have simply used some right angle for one of them afterwards
Anyway, it seems to work a treat and I'm pumped at having a read out for the full 4in travel of my compound.also got the 1st lick of paint on the paper mache dragon I'm helping my daughter make
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,575
Churchjw,
That wire holder is great. I especially like your ingenuity selecting inexpensive PVC fittings to modify plus taking the time to machine registration diameters for alignment during fit-up and gluing. Very cool piece.
That wire holder is great. I especially like your ingenuity selecting inexpensive PVC fittings to modify plus taking the time to machine registration diameters for alignment during fit-up and gluing. Very cool piece.