2000 Enco 110-2034

[rodm717]

I bought this lathe about 2 years ago and found some issues. Having another working lathe, this has sat on the back burner for some time. I'm back into it full swing now with some work coming up that the old 9 is just a tad small for.
To recap on another thread, I bought this knowing there were some issues, but for the money, it seemed to be a good gamble. I replaced motor and electrical with a new 2HP 3 Phase motor and VFD. Then it sat after finding a crazy vibration, manifesting at the motor, that ruined any type of decent finish.
I finally pulled the tailstock apart and found the key that locks the ram to be badly worn. Luckily a replacement was found at Grizzly for $3 and will be inbound along with new way wipers and a few other odds and ends.
The vibration issue had me stumped for a bit and working back and removing the chuck, indicating the headstock spindle, jack shaft, and motor spindle, to considering a motor replacement, I was at a loss for what was causing the problem. The motor was brand new, albeit from ebay, but i couldnt put my finger on the shutter and vibration.
As a last ditch effort to dropping $300 on another motor, i found a few posts and related articles that mentioned belts. Belts?? Really, a v-belt that appeared almost new and visually in good condition would be the culprit? YES!!! To my amazement when i replaced the motor to jackshaft pully belt, all that crazy shutter and vibration was reduced to almost nill. I'm amazed that a $35 link belt from Harbor Freight fixed the issue. I definitely learned something today about a belts contribution to the proper operation of a machine.
Needless to say, I will be replacing the headstock spindle to jackshaft belt and can only imagine that will take any remaining vibration away from the machine and has given me much needed motivation to continue to bring this lathe back to some of its former glory.
Another example of taking a risk, spending some time and polishing what appears to be turd, can take the place and save of spending a few $5K on a comparable new machine.

 

[pacifica]

I bought this lathe about 2 years ago and found some issues. Having another working lathe, this has sat on the back burner for some time. I'm back into it full swing now with some work coming up that the old 9 is just a tad small for.
To recap on another thread, I bought this knowing there were some issues, but for the money, it seemed to be a good gamble. I replaced motor and electrical with a new 2HP 3 Phase motor and VFD. Then it sat after finding a crazy vibration, manifesting at the motor, that ruined any type of decent finish.
I finally pulled the tailstock apart and found the key that locks the ram to be badly worn. Luckily a replacement was found at Grizzly for $3 and will be inbound along with new way wipers and a few other odds and ends.
The vibration issue had me stumped for a bit and working back and removing the chuck, indicating the headstock spindle, jack shaft, and motor spindle, to considering a motor replacement, I was at a loss for what was causing the problem. The motor was brand new, albeit from ebay, but i couldnt put my finger on the shutter and vibration.
As a last ditch effort to dropping $300 on another motor, i found a few posts and related articles that mentioned belts. Belts?? Really, a v-belt that appeared almost new and visually in good condition would be the culprit? YES!!! To my amazement when i replaced the motor to jackshaft pully belt, all that crazy shutter and vibration was reduced to almost nill. I'm amazed that a $35 link belt from Harbor Freight fixed the issue. I definitely learned something today about a belts contribution to the proper operation of a machine.
Needless to say, I will be replacing the headstock spindle to jackshaft belt and can only imagine that will take any remaining vibration away from the machine and has given me much needed motivation to continue to bring this lathe back to some of its former glory.
Another example of taking a risk, spending some time and polishing what appears to be turd, can take the place and save of spending a few $5K on a comparable new machine.

You might want to check the balance and roundness(run-out) of your sheaves also.

 

[rodm717]

Excellent point. After all, the belt doesn't bottom out and rides on the wall of the groove.
The new link belt is narrower and sits deeper in the groove of pulley. I have no doubt wear on the pulley played no small part in the issue.

 

[markba633csi]

If the old belt had a lump in it yes that would cause problems. Carlisle belts by Timken are my favorite high quality V belt.
-Mark

 

[Nogoingback]

You might want to check the balance and roundness(run-out) of your sheaves also.

+1 on checking the pulleys. My Jet drill press was a shaker from the day I bought it. Balancing the center pulley
made a HUGE difference in calming it down.

 

[rodm717]

I decided to replace the headstock spindle belt with the accu-link, since it did such a nice job on the first belt. The huge advantage of this belt is that you don't have to remove anything to install it, but the old belt. And after poking and checking i found the jackshaft to have a bit of play and ordered new 6005zz-c3 bearings.
Having finally eliminated that crazy vibration, i feel going over the little things are definitely worth it at this point.
I have a rough set up to power the lathe and the next project is to reinstall forward and reverse switches, power switch and light, and the e-stop.
However, I will also add a rheostat and rpm display. The trick is getting it wired correctly with the vfd. With the preconfigured modes of the vfd, it shouldn't be that difficult, but the jog button will have to fall to the way side.
I'll upload some pics, but this is definitely not a "show piece" and more of a resurrection to some extent. The last owner was none too kind and not a machinist by any stretch of the imagination. Again for $750 vs. $5k for new, its hard to complain and fills a need in my shop for a larger 1-9/16" bore machine. Next in line is a plasma table build and 2nd mill.

 

[markba633csi]

By all means cover up those exposed electrical terminals- last thing you need is a big wad of metal chips in there
-Mark

 

[rodm717]

Thanks. Won't be any cutting until I wrap up some other details. As I said previously, it is a rough test set up for operation. Not utilization yet. I'm a manager of a sheetmetal and fab shop so a few F360 drawn files posted to our plasma table and into break, makes a custom electrical enclosure pretty easy. Question is aluminum or steel??
Actually tuning motor frequency today. Other than some vfd whine, extremely quiet. Anyone have any suggestions for frequency adjustment? I'm at +8mhz on the carrier frequency. Much easier on the ears. This vfd also has a overheat function that will drop the frequency at a threshold and then back up when it has cooled. You may or may not have noticed a SEW Drive braking resistor that will be used.
When I picked the lathe up the motor mount was broke and constructed and welded new from ss angle and plate. Along with some washers as shims, the motor is locked down and weakest link and only area showing any type of noticeable vibration, the original cast bracket to lathe bed. L shaped casting with no gusset.

 

[rodm717]

I decided to up grade a bit while fixing the tailstock quill stop. I ended up purchasing the new stop shaft, handle, and key pin.
And I purchased the graduated collar and hand wheel that came with the Grizzly G9249 variant. Only thing needing modified is the hand wheel outer hub face needs counter bored to allow the nut to engage the quill threads. It's about 3/8" short so something else was different between the two lathes as well.
New way wipers, springs for F/R lever on apron, I had already replace the corresponding switches as well.
I'll most likely be moving onto the apron, cross slide and compound. The carriage gibs need adjusted for sure and the cross slide and compound exhibit quite a bit of slop. Should be interesting to exactly what is causing that. Not always the nut and lead screw, but I will attempt to adjust the take up on their respective nuts initially.
I also just received new 24v "icecube" relays to supplement the functions of the vfd.

 

[rodm717]

I countered the hub out to accept the nut to secure handwheel onto tailstock leadscrew. The other difference and fix that i did not previously mention, is the need for a different key. The stock 4mm (.157") key will not work as the handwheel has a very odd tall profile to the its keyway. Its close to .25" tall.
I will end up using a .1875" thick plate cut to .4375" x .4375" and will sand if necessary to fit. Other than this key and installing the ball and spring into the graduated sleeve, this should wrap up work on the tailstock.
I did find that one of the adjustment screws on the cross slide lead screw to be missing and will be taking the remaining adjustment screw (there are two) out to find a replacement. Hopefully the local hardware store will have a match. The compound slop is another story and luckily seems to have a possible key issue, as the handwheel turns and is not engaging the screw properly. I will have to take the handwheel and collar off to verify and hopefully is as simple as replacing or fixing the key or keyway.
My hope in sharing is that someone in a similar situation has reference and can perform some of the work i am doing with a little more ease.