1994 Enco 110-1340 (13 X 40) lathe.

Patrick & Zigeuner:
Thank you both!!
My concerns have been fully answered.
 
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I'm new to this forum so if i'm in the wrong section for this please let me know. I just acquired a Enco 110-1340, a early 1990's model, looks complete with the standard additions. My question involves moving this machine. Can any one tell me how heavy it is, should I brake it down to smaller chunks ie, take it completly apart. Or maybe just take it off the base to transport it home.........other side of town. I wouldn't mind taking parts off it just so I can repaint it and get it back to an earlier state of condition.
I thought I would take it off the stand using a motor jack, set it on some skate rolls to get it out the door and into the yard, and then lift it with the engine jack to pickup.
Again, any suggestions from those who have moved one like this and does anyone know the weight as it sits there, or a close number, I'm guessing 1300 lbs.
thanks in advance for the help!
gene martin, efm
 
Welcome to the forum, Gene. You're probably not far off with your weight estimate. I used to have a 1983 model12 x 36 Enco similar in construction, and it weighed in around 900 lbs. You could move it in one piece if you have the overhead clearance and lift capability to clear the stand. Otherwise you need to take the lathe off and handle it separately. If you do it in one go, just remember to sling it from high points, as it will be very top heavy, and heavy on the headstock end. Even then, it helps to run the carriage and tailstock to the far right to help balance things out a little. Be sure to lock the tailstock down regardless of moving it or not. Nylon lift straps or slings are the best way to go. There usually is some argument about thins, so I won't tell you not to throw a loop around the spindle right behind the chuck, but I won't tell you not to either. It's my personal belief and experience that on smaller machines it doesn't do any damage, and I have done it before, numerous times. But if you're the least bit concerned that it may, then simply rig it some other way. The further apart the lift points are, the more stable the lift will be. just be sure they won't slip from where you put them.

Have fun and enjoy your new toy!
 
thank you Carl, I haven't identified the method of lifting it yet, probably one of those engine hoists only on steroids you can rent from the equipment company. as for slinging it, I will look at your method. It sits just inside a regular door way, in fact the door hits it when you come in it is so close.
I plan to lift it up and roll it through the door, turn it 90 degrees and then lift it into my pickup. Since it is top heavy I will have to tie it down very securely, I only have about 10 miles to travel so that won't be bad and then my shop has double 4 x 8' doors.
Hope it goes as smooth as this sounds!!!! Will let you know.
thanks again for the advise.
gene
 
here is how to move/hoist with an engine lift:

Supplies:
(2) 4 foot straps rated for the load. not 6 foot.. (and dont try and wrap to shorten a long strap)
(1) load balancer from Harbor freight. An absolute requirement.

(*) location of straps:
the headstock strap under the bed and behind the lead screws. all the way against the headstock, not more than a few inches away at max.

(*)second strap : will place its self by the load balancer.

(*)engine lift: adjust the overhead arm to the location/bolt hole for the weight. This will give only just enough clearance of the hoist legs widht to place the lathe on the stand, btw.

(*)the balance: tailstock end ever so slightly lower. thats important. because if it gets higher than the headstock, there is always a chance the headstock strap could slip forward toward the tailstock, and that can be a disaster.

(*) orientation: the lathe is oriented in line with the hoist, as is the stand as you approach it.

(*) safety net...lol.............. stout pieces of wood (at least 2x4) across the hoist legs,
during the lift-off-crate, move, etc. there if you need them.

Also one other thing that really important:
when the crate is delivered, ask the the driver to pallet-jack roll it into your shop, and then lift the crate off of the pallet. the pallet size can cause hassles using the lift to get the pallet removed.
Pay him $20 for his trouble and make a freind you will need later :) we needed an auto jack at the other end and a large prybar to help with the pallet jack's capability.
 
Moving a lathe on the floor:

get 8 to 12 of those 1" galvanized water? pipes, 24" long.
crowbar up the end of the lathe/stand, place pipe. repeat other end.
start rolling the lathe and inserting/removing the pipes as you go.

aka "egyptian style"
works like a charm including going around things not just straight :)
 
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