1" band saw blade for Doall

[Aukai]

1 good blade, or switch between a general purpose, and a dedicated blade for 316 SS. Most cutting will be MS, AL, etc, but I'm not sure if I should be cutting SS with this saw. What blade, tpi and brand is recommended?

 

[Ulma Doctor]

for 316 you may need a carbide toothed blade for extensive cutting
hardened teeth will be a must no matter the material
Lennox used to be an excellent blade, i can't comment on current production
usually between 6 and 14 teeth is appropriate for metalwork- i usually choose 10TPI as an all around blade pitch and would make it my go to blade

 

[mikey]

I cut everything with one blade, including stainless, in both horizontal/vertical modes. I use a Lenox Diemaster 2, bimetal 10-14 vari-tooth blade. I don't use coolant or cutting oil, just stick wax, and I don't have a hydraulic feed control; I just use the ghetto spring downfeed adjuster that came with my Jet 5X6. Works just fine for me.

 

[Aukai]

I forgot to add it would be .125 wall tubing. 2 Mikes in a row I'm going to order the new capacitor tonight, and the table is back on. Gotta go walk the dog....

 

[projectnut]

Here's some information on bandsaw blade selection from the Ellis Manufacturing Company. They make bandsaws as well as drill presses and belt grinders. Under the "How to select a blade" section it gives recommendations as to the type of blade material to use for the type of stock being cut. The "Tooth selection" section covers the TPI guidelines to avoid blade damage and maximize blade life. The "Tooth types and sets" section covers the tooth styles and sets used on different materials under different cutting conditions.

Band Saw Blades - Ellis Mfg, Inc. (ellissaw.com)

This company makes their own blades in just about any material, tooth configuration, and size you can think of. Personally I use their bimetal, variable tooth design on all materials. I have a few different TPI blades for use on small and large stock. They last several years if treated properly. My blades cost about $40.00 each with a minimum order of 2. I started using their blades mainly because my saw came with one on it, and they're only about 10 miles from my front door.

They do make excellent blades, but I doubt it would be economical for you to order from this company, however the information they offer applies across the board.

 

[ddickey]

And proper break in, don't forget that.

 

[talvare]

I've had one of the small horizontal band saws for 40+ years that I use mostly the 10-14 bi-metal blades on. I do use 6 TPI bi-metal blades for cutting heavier stock (usually 1" thick and above). I recently purchased a WWII era 18" vertical bandsaw that I just finished completely refurbishing and needed blades for. I purchased a 3/4"x .035 10-14TPI M-42 blade and a 3/8"x .025 10-14 TPI M-42 blade for it. I've only done a few test cuts with the 3/4" blade so far, so can't yet attest to it's durability, but it does cut well. These are German made blades and the company I purchased from is:
Bandsaw Blade Warehouse
Ted

 

[Mitch Alsup]

At least a bi-metal blade--at best a carbide tipped blade.

The number of teeth per inch is dependent on how thick the thing you are cutting is.

I use Lennox bimetal blades, typically 11-14.

 

[Aukai]

Thanks for all of the info guys. Duane, this is the first I'm hearing about breaking in a blade, could you elaborate please.

 

[projectnut]

At least a bi-metal blade--at best a carbide tipped blade.

The number of teeth per inch is dependent on how thick the thing you are cutting is.

I use Lennox bimetal blades, typically 11-14.

We might be playing a game of semantics here, but my interpretation of "thickness" is the amount of material measured vertically from the top to the bottom. The width of the material is the amount in the horizontal plane i.e. from left to right.

When choosing a bandsaw blade the rule of thumb for TPI it that there should be a minimum of 3 teeth engaged at all times to avoid breaking off (stripping) a tooth and a maximum of 24 teeth (to avoid loading the gullets to the point of damaging the blade.

If the material to be cut is 1" wide (using my interpretation) and 12" from top to bottom (thickness by my interpretation) you could use a blade anywhere from 3TPI to 24 TPI. In this case I would opt for about a 6TPI blade (if I had one) for speed, and being assured there would be sufficient teeth in the material to avoid stripping a tooth. This would also satisfy the "less than 24 teeth engagement rule and allow the gullets to thoroughly clean themselves on exit of the material.

On the other hand if cutting stock 12" wide, and 1" thick (by my interpretation) the TPI would have to be in the 2 TPI range. I am not aware of any blades standard with less than 3TPI.

Again this may be old school, but I was always taught to to cut stock in a bandsaw with the thinner surface facing the blade. Cutting the afore mentioned 1" x 12" stock on a horizontal saw the stock would be positioned standing on the 1" surface making the thickness 12" and the width 1". On a vertical saw the stock would be placed in the opposite orientation with the 1" edge facing the blade. The blade would be cutting on the same surface as the horizontal saw. In this case the stock would be seen as 1" thick and 12" wide.

If you're not confused by now you're a better man than I. The key thing I was taught to remember is the thinnest side of the stock "is supposed to" face the blade.

As to the reality of the situation I have sinned countless numbers of times. Both in TPI selection, and orientation of the stock. Sometimes it's a real PITA to have to change out a blade just to make 1 cut. You put the stock in place, hold your breath, and start cutting. If you're cutting wide stock with a high TPI blade be sure to clean the gullets as they leave the stock. A built in brush saves a lot of time, effort, and blades. Fortunately I don't have any bandsaw blades in the 3 or 4 TPI range, so I rarely have problems with blade selection for narrower stock.

One (somewhat) valid reason for allowing the widest side of the stock to face the blade (on a horizontal saw) is that if you lower the blade with minimal pressure you will minimize the top to bottom wander of the cut. I have seen (horizontal) saws with bearings so worn that there will be as much as 1/2" runout in a 1" x 6" piece of stock when the stock is placed in the vise with the 1" side facing the blade. With the 6" side facing the blade there will be only a few thousandths runout.