1.75" pipe joiners

4R8

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My first real combined lathe/mill project, a set of tube joiners for 1.75" x .120 tube

They'll be going into my panhard frame mount brace on the front to allow easy installation and removal of my sump. I still have to turn/mill the second set but only did the one as a test to see if i could.

I didn't run off any drawings, just kind of ran with what was happening. The next pair will be to a drawing which i'll do in the next few days (but won't make them for about a month as usual).

I didn't think of taking any happy snaps while turning down the stock but here's a few i did get while in the mill.


Starting to remove some material on the mill from one of the halves
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junk pile
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two halves with the bulk removed
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Slotting the halves. The next pair will have only the one slot. Not sure why i did two as the chance of both taking load is slim to bugger all. Especially when I'm machining it!
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I then stuck the two together and put them back in the vice. Followed by milling a slot to counter sink the two M8 cap screws.
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After pilot drilling, drilling and counter boring the top half, I cut a thread in th elower half and checked with a pair of cap screws. These are a stainless screw but i'll be using a Grade 8 or 12 high tensile screw when it comes time to install them.
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Overall, I'm happy and will feel safe with them in use. As they are not going into any cage or body armour, just the panhard brace, they only receive load in the one direction.

I've learnt a bit with using the vice and should have used the soft jaw against the non fixed jaw to ensure things stay square. Along with a few other handy things and look forward to the next pair.

Even though the time spent making these vs. the cost of a bought set makes them not worth it, it definitely helps get to know the machines.

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IMAG0260.jpg

IMAG0262.jpg

IMAG0249.jpg

IMAG0252.jpg

IMAG0254.jpg

IMAG0258.jpg

IMAG0260.jpg

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For the cost of a washer and dryer, you could go to the laundromat many times. It is always worth it to make your own parts, if time is available. Nice, solid connection and nicely finished. I like it.

Mike
 
Re: 1.75

Do those slip inside of the pipe and weld on?

Sure do. If they were intended for a join which had more than one plane of stress, I would make the shank a bit longer to allow a plug weld or two. (but that's just me)

author=Hawkeye link=topic=3787.msg27856#msg27856 date=1317482789
For the cost of a washer and dryer, you could go to the laundromat many times. It is always worth it to make your own parts, if time is available. Nice, solid connection and nicely finished. I like it.

Mike

Thats pretty much my motto. I've spent a lot of time making things that can be bought, just to be able to sit down with a frothie beverage after and tell someone that i made it.

Thanks for the comments
 
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Re: 1.75

author=4R8 link=topic=3787.msg27917#msg27917 date=1317507568
author=November X-ray link=topic=3787.msg27883#msg27883 date=1317489196
Do those slip inside of the pipe and weld on?

Sure do. If they were intended for a join which had more than one plane of stress, I would make the shank a bit longer to allow a plug weld or two. (but that's just me)

author=Hawkeye link=topic=3787.msg27856#msg27856 date=1317482789


You would not need to utilize any plug welds if you did a full penetration circumferential weld that was sound, matter of fact you would only need a small amout of "stub" to be inside the pipe, assuming you are using a filler metal of equal to or greater tensile strength of the base material.
 
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Yeah, NX. I've never been able to get quotes to work out smoothly, either. :( Makes it look like I said that.
 
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Yeah, you have to be careful where the [quote ] and [/quote ] end up. Everything between them is something you are bringing in from a previous post. It gets sticky when you are doing multiple quotes.
 
You would not need to utilize any plug welds if you did a full penetration circumferential weld that was sound, matter of fact you would only need a small amout of "stub" to be inside the pipe, assuming you are using a filler metal of equal to or greater tensile strength of the base material.

That is true. But for a join in an external rollcage, I like to have a plug weld on the inside of the join aswell (opposite to the anticipated side of impact). It helps avoid the weld and/or surrounds tearing in the event of an impact. I've seen the difference it makes on many occasions.
 
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