Z Axis Setter 20$

It doesn't look like he's comfortable using it, picked up the sensor and touched the tool with it, rather than bringing the tool down to meet it 1.000 above the work.

I'll stick with my .001 feeler stock.
 
I'm not comfortable with any of this, that's why I joined this forum, to learn.

I picked it up to save time.

Lanham
 
Didn't mean to sound critical, sorry if I came off that way. We all learn by trying. I remember using a toolsetter when I was employed, we were always frightened of breaking off the Ruby. Now that I'm retired I try to save as much money as I can for things I need. It would be nice to have a 3D setter, but my boss won't authorize it.
 
I'm not comfortable with any of this, that's why I joined this forum, to learn.

I picked it up to save time.

Lanham
Lanham,

Is the the contact plate spring loaded?

My version of Mach 3 (Tormach) has a screen for z axis and a screen for x & y axis. Although they are set up for a touch probe, they should work as well for your tool. If you are using a cutting tool to locate the edge, you will need to make sure that the leading edge of the cutting tool is the point of contact. It would be better to use a pin than the actual cutting tool. Another factor will be spindle runout. One way to compensate would be to permanently mount a piece of round stock in an R8 end mill holder and use the mill as a lathe to turn the round stock to a reduced diameter. The resulting tool will be true to your spindle. If you turn to 1 mm you will have to add .5 mm to the 20mm offset for your tool to locate the spindle axis at the edge of your work.
 
Thanks RJ, I don't have a screen for the axis like yours, I got a homebrew mill. I hit auto zero and the z axis moves but not the other two axis. I'll turn a rod like you said once I figure this out

Lanham
 
Just ordered 2 of these to play with. Thanks for the heads up on them. I have been using one I made from a keychain led light from HF and some Acetal. Lights up when Z is 1 inch above workpiece.
 
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