WTB Atlas shaper vise and parts

Cmsmoke

Registered
Registered
Joined
Nov 2, 2017
Messages
2
Hi,
I am in search of an Atlas 7 shaper vise. I also need a 10-80 step pulley.
Thanks.
 
Keep your eye on E-Bay. The vises pop up from time to time. There is a slightly damaged step pulley listed on E-Bay right now.
 
The 10 in the PN of the pulley says it is from a 10" lathe originally. You might give Clausing a call on it as they still carry a lot of parts for the lathes. Not so much on the Shaper and Mill specific parts.
 
I will add that Atlas made a Shaper vise and a Mill vise. In the typical photo they look similar but they are NOT interchangeable.

Also, if you call Clausing about the cone pulley, don't confuse them by saying that it fits the 7B Shaper. And don't be surprised by the price. They only sell new parts and most of what they have in stock were made within the past 5 to 10 years and will be priced accordingly.
 
After having a 7b for several years now I don’t think what people want for the stock Atlas vise is worth the $3-400 they go for on eBay. And a majority are not in even good shape. Now if you’re one of those who are restoring and need OEM ok. But about 50% of the time I don’t use mine for the projects I do. And the rotating base is pretty much worthless because it eats up precious Z clearance and was taken off an put in a drawer soon after I got the shaper operational. IMHO a very worthy project is to make your own zero/two part vise instead. I made a backstop early on with the 7b in mind and it has done many setups with some toe clamps. Also some kind of like dogs used on planers have come in really handy too. If you’ve ever seen the video with Rudy Kouhoupt about using a shaper he uses a vise he made there and if I ever get my todo list down I’ll make a version of that in conjunction with the backstop I’ve already mentioned.
 

Attachments

  • 5A28C0BE-9A8F-47D8-A118-AF78BF073AAB.jpeg
    5A28C0BE-9A8F-47D8-A118-AF78BF073AAB.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 51
  • 66D5DB13-8A03-4A52-9C9D-6CF67FC064E2.jpeg
    66D5DB13-8A03-4A52-9C9D-6CF67FC064E2.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 46
  • 3580E4AF-19EE-460D-B734-74880E85CBF3.jpeg
    3580E4AF-19EE-460D-B734-74880E85CBF3.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 42
  • 70C086E4-AB2B-41EE-B916-874C37EF0A61.jpeg
    70C086E4-AB2B-41EE-B916-874C37EF0A61.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 40
  • D45E96D4-D8C2-405E-8236-BA1831613C7E.jpeg
    D45E96D4-D8C2-405E-8236-BA1831613C7E.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 37
  • F6AE14DD-1C18-4E18-BC16-FC42CF3AF3CD.jpeg
    F6AE14DD-1C18-4E18-BC16-FC42CF3AF3CD.jpeg
    630.5 KB · Views: 44
Sorry for replying late. Thanks for all the help. I do watch ebay and see what is offered. My shaper has a 3 step pulley on the jackshaft and although it still works just fine, I am missing one speed. It would also make it slightly easier to turn by hand with the correct one. Yes those vises are expensive and no I am not a purist. I just want to make good parts.
I have been looking at the Chinese 3" vises, but they are push type, not pull type like the original Atlas or a Kurt DX series. I currently have an Abwood vise on it that is also push type that I believe no matter what I do rises on the moveable side and is prohibiting me of making a true test part. A Kurt DX4 is around $525. That is almost what I paid for my whole shaper, but am considering it.
C-Bag...So how much cut can you take with the set-ups you show? I am definitely not opposed to toe clamps or mighty bites, if they hold well enough. I would sure like to keep that Kurt vise money in my pocket! I'm a firm believer buy once, cry once, but I also know it will eat up z space and won't work in a lot of situations. I am studying your photos right now. Also, did you make those dogs and if so what material? If they are bought, do you have a part# or at least name brand? I could only seem to find mitee-bites in this size and struck out on toe clamps. Can yo tell me where you got those?
 
Last edited:
All those setups I could take .030 to .050” DOC, same as what I take with the vise. I can take deeper cuts but it’s not really made for that and it goes all schwangle at deeper cuts. The 7b is going to flex unlike it’s big brothers. As long as I stay inside it’s envelope it does real nice accurate work. i use it for flat finish work mostly while I’m doing other stuff. Start standing over it like you’re in production pushing it and you’re going to be disappointed IMHO. I only use the slowest speed. Faster than that and it gets a weird pattern like fine chatter. Slow it gets as close to a ground finish as I can get in my garage.

The dogs I made out of Dura-Bar cast iron I got off eBay. I also got an assortment of 6 old TeCo toe clamps of eBay for $70.

I don’t have a Kurt but one of the problems I have with the OEM Atlas is the jaw lifts. It’s nice and tight on the body, push or pull don’t matter, it lifts. The toe clamps don‘t, they can’t. I don’t have any mighty bites. I run out of table with the TeCo’s so it’s always a real exercise in creativity to do a setup on the 7b no matter what the job. This was the last run I did with it leveling the mounting stop on my Manley screw press.
 

Attachments

  • 846DD2B4-678E-44B2-A5B4-43FE4D2E4384.jpeg
    846DD2B4-678E-44B2-A5B4-43FE4D2E4384.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 33
  • 93E98944-5CF2-4083-AE8C-8B3375670039.jpeg
    93E98944-5CF2-4083-AE8C-8B3375670039.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 39
Back
Top