Wood: Enemy of Metal?

I have recently been making tool storage boxes out of teak, which is a reasonably oily wood. Do you think this will be a problem? Am I wasting my time with this? Should I oil the teak with mineral oil? Or even and anti-rust product like Boeshield?
Robert
 
Last edited:
The report, which has been moved but can be found with a search on the site, says teak is on the higher end of the corrosion scale.

I just made about 15 wood boxes for tools myself. I did coat them with polyurethane.

I read an article about the rust inhibiting properties of lanolin. That is a grease made from lambs wool. I thin it with paint thinner or diesel and brush the stuff on my metal tools. I think it’s about the best product I’ve come across. I bought a tub of it on eBay.
 
I think I am going to soak my teak holders in Boeshield and see how that goes. I will report back if I see any corrosion.
Robert
 
The report, which has been moved but can be found with a search on the site, says teak is on the higher end of the corrosion scale.

I just made about 15 wood boxes for tools myself. I did coat them with polyurethane.

I read an article about the rust inhibiting properties of lanolin. That is a grease made from lambs wool. I thin it with paint thinner or diesel and brush the stuff on my metal tools. I think it’s about the best product I’ve come across. I bought a tub of it on eBay.


Does not the combination of lanolin and diesel smell a little ?

Stu
 
Diesel is what I had at the time but I’ve used paint thinner and lacquer thinner with good results.
 
I'm both into wood and metal working. I save my lathe and mill metal chips for staining my wood slab benches.
I sprinkle on the chips and water it down for the night. The next day I brush the chips off. Great looking stain..
I’d love to see a picture of that if you have it.
 
Since this thread has been revived I will report back that there has been no identifiable corrosion on my steel parts stored in teak treated with Boeshield.
It seems the original link to the reference article is now broken. Here is a similar article:

Also
 

Attachments

I have tuned pianos that have wood soundboards, wood pin blocks, with steel strings, steel pins, and cast-iron frame for a living. Shot steel barrel rifles that had wooden stocks. Own wooden toolboxes that held tools made of steel and brass. In just about in every case if there was a problem, it was high humidity over a period of time. Although recently, I've learned to be careful of certain glues especially the PVAs (white or yellow wood glues) have a gassing off problem.
Many of you have replace those funky plastic handles on your machines with metal. I prefer to replace mine with wood, because it has a wonderful feel to it. The tool that I had for tuning pianos has a rosewood handle. This was not just because it is pretty (which it is, in fact it is beautiful), but because wood is easy on the hand and less tiring than other materials. When you spend two or three hours tuning a piano, it can be quite a strain.
My conclusion is that the real problem is high humidity, and I might add is neglect. Keep these things clean and oiled or waxed or whatever it takes.
 
Back
Top