This did the trick! Thank you!!! I wouldn't have guessed to run neutral directly to the motor. Really thank you.
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[Newbie] Wiring split phase motor to drum switch
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This did the trick! Thank you!!! I wouldn't have guessed to run neutral directly to the motor. Really thank you.
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Ah yes, good catch clueless
Dayton doesn't make it easy sometimes
Is there no start capacitor on that motor? Perhaps not if it's for a blower I.E. low starting torque application
mark
Dayton doesn't make it easy sometimes
Is there no start capacitor on that motor? Perhaps not if it's for a blower I.E. low starting torque application
mark
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Correct, it has a start winding and a centrifugal switch but no start capacitor. It is a split phase motor.
Capacitor start motors are better for applications with high starting loads. Split phase motors are typically used in fans and blower.
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Aha, that explains it. I have a similar motor on my Rotex vertical milling head, Westinghouse 1/3 hp with centrifugal switch but no cap
mark
mark
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Awright, lets get a little more basic here. The photo of the motor shows two studs. Those are the line leads. Connect (L)Black to one, (L)White to the other. The motor should run. Direction is not important here. Now remove the (L)Black lead from the stud. In its' place connect one of the runners to the switch. Then connect another runner to the (L)Black lead from the line cord. When these two runners are tied together, the motor will run. Assuming the cord is plugged in first, of course.(humor intentional) Those are the two wires to connect to (S)5 and (S)6.
Proving the motor isn't that important. It's new, it most likely works OK. Where this "exercise" does matter is proving the wiring as you put it in. That, and taking things one step at a time. And paying attention to what you're doing as you do it. That's why I brought up the universal lubricant. It makes this part go so much smoother. A most important part of doing any electrical work. I have had this deformation since 1968. A semi-permanant deformation of the starboard thumb and fore-finger. Known more colloquially as "Petty Officer Fingers". It almost resembles rhumotoid arthritus, having the same deformation, but limited to those two digits. Now, I used a few "abreviations" that may or may not be standards. I'm getting old and the memory doesn't work as well as it once did. FWIW, the "Avatar" picture is over 10 years old. What was once salt and pepper is now salt.
(L)Black and like is the line cord
(M)Black and like is the motor
(S)1 and like is the switch
EDIT: Or call it an afterthought... ... There are many ways to make up this connection. I have explaned it the way I do it. The line cable coming in to the motor. It may also come into the switch. But drum switches are rather close. There is not a lot of excess room inside. Bringing the line cord into the motor usually has a little more space to make up. Using the proper "lugs" on the wires does help some. Just make sure wires don't touch.
As an aside, if needed, I purchase AWG14 extension cords, usually 10 foot, occasionally 25. Cut off the female cap and get your line cord. Be sure not to get the cheaper cords, AWG-16 or smaller. Cut the cap with long leads so you can splice it on to something if you ever need it. Rare though, I have a box full of cutoffs "Just In Case". Also, I want to "rant" just a little. Only take a few lines.
All readers, please note. Electrician and Electronics are NOT the same. I am mildly qualified in electronics, but not a master by any stretch. And then both are further divided into many different disciplines. My brother was a master LORAN mechanic. I am an electrical engineer. We can barely understand each other in a technical conversation. About the only common ground is "Basic Electrical Theory". If you touch a "hot" wire, you get zapped. Another way to put it, is that I speak three languages: English, Electricity, and Computers. Brother also speaks three languages: English, Electronics, and Radio.
Proving the motor isn't that important. It's new, it most likely works OK. Where this "exercise" does matter is proving the wiring as you put it in. That, and taking things one step at a time. And paying attention to what you're doing as you do it. That's why I brought up the universal lubricant. It makes this part go so much smoother. A most important part of doing any electrical work. I have had this deformation since 1968. A semi-permanant deformation of the starboard thumb and fore-finger. Known more colloquially as "Petty Officer Fingers". It almost resembles rhumotoid arthritus, having the same deformation, but limited to those two digits. Now, I used a few "abreviations" that may or may not be standards. I'm getting old and the memory doesn't work as well as it once did. FWIW, the "Avatar" picture is over 10 years old. What was once salt and pepper is now salt.
(L)Black and like is the line cord
(M)Black and like is the motor
(S)1 and like is the switch
EDIT: Or call it an afterthought... ... There are many ways to make up this connection. I have explaned it the way I do it. The line cable coming in to the motor. It may also come into the switch. But drum switches are rather close. There is not a lot of excess room inside. Bringing the line cord into the motor usually has a little more space to make up. Using the proper "lugs" on the wires does help some. Just make sure wires don't touch.
As an aside, if needed, I purchase AWG14 extension cords, usually 10 foot, occasionally 25. Cut off the female cap and get your line cord. Be sure not to get the cheaper cords, AWG-16 or smaller. Cut the cap with long leads so you can splice it on to something if you ever need it. Rare though, I have a box full of cutoffs "Just In Case". Also, I want to "rant" just a little. Only take a few lines.
All readers, please note. Electrician and Electronics are NOT the same. I am mildly qualified in electronics, but not a master by any stretch. And then both are further divided into many different disciplines. My brother was a master LORAN mechanic. I am an electrical engineer. We can barely understand each other in a technical conversation. About the only common ground is "Basic Electrical Theory". If you touch a "hot" wire, you get zapped. Another way to put it, is that I speak three languages: English, Electricity, and Computers. Brother also speaks three languages: English, Electronics, and Radio.
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Hi CluelesdNewB,
I know this is a very old post and don't want to hijack anything but you did such a great job working through this motor to drum switch issue that I have to ask for your help too.
I got the exact same motor as the original poster but i have a different drum switch. I have spent quite some time myself trying to work through the issue but i don't think i can use my drum switch for this type of motor. Can you take a look at the things below and give me your thoughts?
The last picture of what I can up with and it shows that i am able to reverse the starter winding with this switch but a can think of any way to also switch the main winding in and off.
Thanks, Heiko
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Hi Heiko910, your motor red and black are correct on drum 3 and 4. The motor 1 and 4 should go to drum 1 and 5.
The power should connect to drum 2 and 6.
If the motor rotation doesn't match the switch handle then swap the red and black wires.
-Mark
The diagram called "split phase" is the correct one, upper right picture inside the switch cover
The power should connect to drum 2 and 6.
If the motor rotation doesn't match the switch handle then swap the red and black wires.
-Mark
The diagram called "split phase" is the correct one, upper right picture inside the switch cover
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Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I have already tried that. In this configuration the centrifugal switch for the starter winding is disabled, starter winding will therefore stay engaged/energized and eventually burn up. If you go into the responses from two years ago you will see a schematic that explains that.
My switch doesn't have enough poles or contacts, I think. Was just looking to get that confirmed.
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Ah I see. OK then, you will need to go behind the motor terminal board and find out how the centrifugal switch connects, then break the connection to the power terminal(s). You need to bring out the start winding and the centrifugal switch in series, to the drum switch 3 and 4 terminals. Most likely you would need to splice a wire and interrupt one of the links from the centrifugal switch to either motor 1 or 4.
I think I said this before: Dayton doesn't make it easy sometimes. It's true that if your drum switch had another isolated pair of contacts this would be easier to accomplish (as in post #20). The fact is many of these motors were not designed to be remotely reversed.
-Mark
You could use the drum switch simply to reverse the red and black leads and add a second switch for on/off, but I'm guessing you would rather not?
I think I said this before: Dayton doesn't make it easy sometimes. It's true that if your drum switch had another isolated pair of contacts this would be easier to accomplish (as in post #20). The fact is many of these motors were not designed to be remotely reversed.
-Mark
You could use the drum switch simply to reverse the red and black leads and add a second switch for on/off, but I'm guessing you would rather not?
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I agree with everything you just posted.
I guess i will go with option #3.
Buy a different switch. Dayton 2x441 will allow me to reverse the starter winding and turn on and off one of the two line connections going to the main winding. Thanks again for you reply
