Window shopping, and dreaming

[Aukai]

I have the PM 1228LB lathe, and I'm considering going to a 1236, the T ultra is 1K more, 1/2 hp less(2vs1.5) for the T, only 1/16 more through bore. The foot print listed is 60" for the 1228, 61" for the 1236, and 67" for the ultra, I'm space limited. Knowing myself, I doubt my skill level will get to the level of being able to need the ultra. Then there is buy once cry once, but the 1 K diff can go to shipping. I like the 1228's RPM readout, that the 36s seem to be lacking. My 1228 has had limited use in the last 2 years, so is it unrealistic to be thinking in the 3K range for resale with some extras, and tooling? Thanks for reading my ramble, insight, and criticism welcome.

 

[Aukai]

Your back
If a good deal doesn't come up on a quality used lathe, I'm leaning to the 1236T

 

[mikey]

Mike, what exactly is it about your PM1228 that you don't like? What is driving you to consider upgrading your lathe? And if you're really looking to upgrade, is the PM 1340GT not a better candidate?

 

[Aukai]

I am length challenged, but for what I'm doing at the moment the 1228 is too short, spindle bore I'll have to live with it seems. 70" is going to crowd me, but is/can be tolerated. Now I'm another K out, plus shipping, but my horded parts will transfer, the 1228 can go still equipped well, and hopefully at a decent price. All the axa stuff will go, 3 jaw, and 4 jaw too. If I can sell the 1228 it will make it easier. Gonna have to stay off Ebay

 

[mikey]

Oh, okay, too short and you want to be able to use your existing tooling on your new lathe - got it.

Stay off ebay? Not happening!

 

[shooter123456]

I have the PM 1228LB lathe, and I'm considering going to a 1236, the T ultra is 1K more, 1/2 hp less(2vs1.5) for the T, only 1/16 more through bore. The foot print listed is 60" for the 1228, 61" for the 1236, and 67" for the ultra, I'm space limited. Knowing myself, I doubt my skill level will get to the level of being able to need the ultra. Then there is buy once cry once, but the 1 K diff can go to shipping. I like the 1228's RPM readout, that the 36s seem to be lacking. My 1228 has had limited use in the last 2 years, so is it unrealistic to be thinking in the 3K range for resale with some extras, and tooling? Thanks for reading my ramble, insight, and criticism welcome.

I have the 1236T and there are a few big things going for it. The biggest thing I think is the QCGB giving you all your imperial threads and a range of feeds without having to mess with the gears. That has been a huge time saver for me. Turning up the feed to find one that will get a chip to break is also a nice bonus.

I don't know how much your skill level will matter in this case as your skill will improve with more time and practice regardless of what machine you are using.

The reason there is no RPM readout on the 1236 models is that they have a single speed motor with gears to change the speed. Since they aren't infinitely variable, a readout would be redundant. You will know the speed based on the gear arrangement you selected.

Resale value will vary, but if you clean it up well, present it well, and are patient, I imagine $3k would be doable.

 

[mksj]

If you decide to go with the 1236T, I would recommend going 3 phase, add the WJ200-015SF to the order and do a basic VFD install that has been posted. You can add a spindle tach for $30-40 or just get a handheld. You will get controlled acceleration and quick braking, surface finish and motor longevity are improved. I would check with Matt, I seem to recall the 3 phase motor was 2 Hp and the single phase was 1.5Hp on this model. Small differences between the 1236T and 1340GT. I guess one needs to decide if going from a 1228 to a 1236 is worth the spend factor.

 

[Aukai]

The great instigator has me checking out the 1340GT now, all my chucks, and stuff will cross over. I have a 5 hp RPC for the saw, if that will power the 3 phase lathe too. I have read that the 3 phase is preferred, and promotes a better finish quality, but I have not seen an explanation as to why. I'll check with my electric Doc to see on the 5 hp RPC

 

[mksj]

Three phase has smoother power delivery of 3 staggered phases simultaneously which results in less motor pulsations then single phase. There are different factors that effect this and also depends on the type of work one does as to the impact. Seems somewhat variable to the degree that one notices it and also depends on the lathe drive system. Other factors to consider is much faster controlled braking with a VFD, in particular w/o a mechanical foot brake. Another concern that one sees with single phase motors is that if one attempts to do a fast switching from forward to reverse, the motor may not reverse. If you have an RPC or decide on a VFD, I would recommend 3 phase. You also do not need to deal with failing start capacitors and limited start/stop cycles due to capacitor over heating.

Single Phase or 3-Phase?

Hi Guys I am in the process of purchasing a new lathe. I have the option of 1-phase or 3-phase power. My shop is wired with single phase. I am aware of the benefits of a VFD ..... but that adds about $500 to the cost of the lathe. And, based on the anticipated use of the lathe, I do not place...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[mickri]

I know nothing about these machines.

My first thought was that if you only need more distance between centers why not buy just the longer bed and swap all of your stuff over to the longer bed. You would need a longer lead screw also. Then I looked at the parts list for both the 28 and the 36 and the beds look to be different. Probably won't work.

Second thought is a to buy another bed for your lathe. Cut off the tailstock end of the bed at the length you want and mount it inline with your existing bed. To get that extra 8" you want only the tailstock is going to be on the extension. You might get away with the existing lead screws. If you need the cross slide to go further back then you would need longer lead screws. I know this sounds really off the wall but it would get you the longer bed you want at a fraction of the cost of a new lathe. I recall seeing an old photo of a craftsman lathe where somebody had done this. Something to think about.