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Why Way Oil?
- Thread starter TIB
- Start date
Way oil is:
1) Optimized to prevent "stick-slip". In other words, aids smooth motion.
2) Has additives that still help prevent wear when there is only a very thin film of oil (boundary lubrication)
3) Generally has additives that aid "clinginess" and makes it stay put.
4) FWIW, is generally compatible with industrail recycling schemes.
SAE 30 is designed for hydrodynamic lubrication (oil film), usually has detergents in it keeping particles in suspension (some oils don't), and is a bit thin (IMHO) for way oil.
I use the Mobil Vactra series. #2 is a "all purpose" formula for non-vertical ways.
If you don't have way oil, SAE 30 is way better than nothing at all, but really isn't the right stuff. That said, many do use it with success for way lubrication.
John
1) Optimized to prevent "stick-slip". In other words, aids smooth motion.
2) Has additives that still help prevent wear when there is only a very thin film of oil (boundary lubrication)
3) Generally has additives that aid "clinginess" and makes it stay put.
4) FWIW, is generally compatible with industrail recycling schemes.
SAE 30 is designed for hydrodynamic lubrication (oil film), usually has detergents in it keeping particles in suspension (some oils don't), and is a bit thin (IMHO) for way oil.
I use the Mobil Vactra series. #2 is a "all purpose" formula for non-vertical ways.
If you don't have way oil, SAE 30 is way better than nothing at all, but really isn't the right stuff. That said, many do use it with success for way lubrication.
John
My understanding is that way oil, unlike mineral oil will not float on top of water.
When coolant is used with mineral based oil it is also washed into the coolant tank where it starts the microbiological action
that is the reason for coolant breakdown. This info came from a discussion with a machine shop operator who was buying 200 litres of it,when I was at the tooling shop.
Ozwelder
When coolant is used with mineral based oil it is also washed into the coolant tank where it starts the microbiological action
that is the reason for coolant breakdown. This info came from a discussion with a machine shop operator who was buying 200 litres of it,when I was at the tooling shop.
Ozwelder
Yes, way oil has its benefits. I had a much older machine and used way oil but didn't notice any difference in how it felt vs. 30W non-detergent. When I got a new lathe, I could feel the difference in how the carriage moved. Much smoother.
BTW: Regular detergent automotive oil has a lot of additives that you're probably better-off not coming into regular contact with. Indeed, some of the additives are quite simple (such as calcium and phosphorous) but there are indeed some heavy-duty, nasty chemicals in it. We have our hands soaked in this all day long and about 70% of what gets on our skin ends-up getting processed by our liver and kidneys... -Just a thought.
Ray
BTW: Regular detergent automotive oil has a lot of additives that you're probably better-off not coming into regular contact with. Indeed, some of the additives are quite simple (such as calcium and phosphorous) but there are indeed some heavy-duty, nasty chemicals in it. We have our hands soaked in this all day long and about 70% of what gets on our skin ends-up getting processed by our liver and kidneys... -Just a thought.
Ray
One difference that needs to be stressed (it was mentioned), as I understand it, is that your automotive oils are designed for keeping particulates suspended in order to carry them to the filter. In an engine this is great as it removes those particles from the system. On a lathe or machine not designed for this kind of filtration, not so much. If the metal particles are kept suspended in the oil they will continue to act as an abrasive thus shortening the life of your ways/slides. Way oils are designed so that they will not carry those particulates.
While any oil is probably better than none it is still best to use the one best designed for the task at hand.
-Ron
While any oil is probably better than none it is still best to use the one best designed for the task at hand.
-Ron
Engine oils are formulated for a different set of lubrication parameters that are easily identified. As such, they are certainly better than nothing, but otherwise, have little to offer other than availability. Not so with chainsaw bar oil. It is formulated to be used in an open system and clings like an insecure nympho. It's gotten to be my "oil can" lube, using it as a general machine lube as well as ways.
It seems some do not like it, but I think if it was marketed in a bottle with a machine shop oriented label, it would be considered the best thing to hit the shop since WD 40 forty years ago.
Bill
It seems some do not like it, but I think if it was marketed in a bottle with a machine shop oriented label, it would be considered the best thing to hit the shop since WD 40 forty years ago.
Bill
NEVER use detergent motor oil on your machines. You can buy non detergent,but correct oils like way oils are better by far.
Although a billion time debate. I grew up in shop atmospheres bathing in oils gas laquers grease cast
iron dust welding fumes you name it im 67 aint dead yet & the only Dr I ever had in his 1947 black
Ford coupe died around 1958 the only and ever Dr I have had. I beleive in family genes i guess,
grandfathers drank like fish rolled cigs and just died of natural well into their 90s. My father was always
covered in oil the leads brake asbestos I got age 94 from him sitting under a tree with a huge brush
fire, him with stick sunglases bottle of brandy garden hose for fire and just said see ya. His job is finished.
Now back to the oils>> this is I gotta know so I have to be set straight. All say no detergents or plain
ole #30: OK so in engines why is this OK with precision cranks bearings cam shafts extreme load pressures
heat just a total bad envoirment. Show me a crank journal, looks like a mirror dealing with .0015 and
a lathe bed or mill with nicks and bruises, that does not get hot, no extreme loads, and needs special oil.??
So I am holding about .004 on my inherited GK 1918 100 yrs old and use what ever is in the oil can.
Headstock #90 gear oil no oilers on this just holes that gets the squirts. So If Im wrong how come
I do not have problems. This subject reminds me way back, a lawnmower needs white gas and non
detergent oil thats balonie. HOWEVER I am constantly cleaning & oiling. Winter we go to #10. shelf
bought. So I read here I am doing harm to my machines with plain old oil, by not using way oils?
I dont like being long winded but I cant condense, bad in school, but I do know this whole shop a
hand me down, still earning a pay runs on store bought oil. And then those who use chain saw oil,
I cant do that, that to me is like fly paper so be it. So in closing, if you are working machines 5 days
a week, and they are still runnin for (most) are more than 60 yrs old and still on the job I just gotta know.
iron dust welding fumes you name it im 67 aint dead yet & the only Dr I ever had in his 1947 black
Ford coupe died around 1958 the only and ever Dr I have had. I beleive in family genes i guess,
grandfathers drank like fish rolled cigs and just died of natural well into their 90s. My father was always
covered in oil the leads brake asbestos I got age 94 from him sitting under a tree with a huge brush
fire, him with stick sunglases bottle of brandy garden hose for fire and just said see ya. His job is finished.
Now back to the oils>> this is I gotta know so I have to be set straight. All say no detergents or plain
ole #30: OK so in engines why is this OK with precision cranks bearings cam shafts extreme load pressures
heat just a total bad envoirment. Show me a crank journal, looks like a mirror dealing with .0015 and
a lathe bed or mill with nicks and bruises, that does not get hot, no extreme loads, and needs special oil.??
So I am holding about .004 on my inherited GK 1918 100 yrs old and use what ever is in the oil can.
Headstock #90 gear oil no oilers on this just holes that gets the squirts. So If Im wrong how come
I do not have problems. This subject reminds me way back, a lawnmower needs white gas and non
detergent oil thats balonie. HOWEVER I am constantly cleaning & oiling. Winter we go to #10. shelf
bought. So I read here I am doing harm to my machines with plain old oil, by not using way oils?
I dont like being long winded but I cant condense, bad in school, but I do know this whole shop a
hand me down, still earning a pay runs on store bought oil. And then those who use chain saw oil,
I cant do that, that to me is like fly paper so be it. So in closing, if you are working machines 5 days
a week, and they are still runnin for (most) are more than 60 yrs old and still on the job I just gotta know.