- Joined
- Apr 10, 2016
- Messages
- 6
Over the past few years I have developed a number of Electronic Edge Finders (EEFs) to be used on both my lathe and mill. All of them tried to have a simple "idiot light" on them that indicated when the cutter (or equivalent) touched a conductive reference surface clamped to the rest of the machine.
This is easy when the change in resistance is greater than 3 ohms. Not too bad when the change is around 0.15 ohms, and down right hard when around 0.02 ohms.
Along the way I found that I needed to develop a milliohm meter so I could precisely set test resistances. Much to my surprise, this meter has turned out to be the best EEF I developed. I've used it for over a year now and it has not failed me yet. This meter can measure down to 0.0001 ohms yet uses only a 10 mA test current.
On my mill I have a change in resistance at touchdown of at least 0.1 ohm so the meter easily detects it. Once in a while the change is only 0.02 ohms but it easily sees that too. You can see my "Resistance Amplifier" at rick DOT sparber DOT org/electronics/ramp DOT pdf. You can read about the theory as it applies to a lathe at rick DOT sparber DOT org/ueef DOT pdf
Note: GoDaddy scans all of my files for tampering at least once a day.
Now, my Resistance Amplifier is designed to precisely measure milli ohms and that is overkill. All we need in order to have an EEF is see changes in resistance. I have been playing with a version that is far simpler which actually can fit inside a Harbor Freight multi meter and should cost under $5. As with the Resistance Amplifier, it would have no on/off switch. I have a bad habit of forgetting to turn battery powered devices off. So instead, removal of the probes turns the device off.
On my mill, I use the Tormach Tooling System. When I want to find zero, I slide a 0.750" diameter length of drill rod in the TTS collet. When zero is compared to running my mechanical rotary edge finder, they agree to within a tenth. So run-out is acceptable. On my lathe, it is best to take a skin cut so the surface is at a constant radius. Then I can set zero to better than a tenth. This EEF is particularly handy when I must touch down a boring bar in the bottom of a hole.
Rick Sparber
Rick DOT Sparber DOT org
KG7MQL
This is easy when the change in resistance is greater than 3 ohms. Not too bad when the change is around 0.15 ohms, and down right hard when around 0.02 ohms.
Along the way I found that I needed to develop a milliohm meter so I could precisely set test resistances. Much to my surprise, this meter has turned out to be the best EEF I developed. I've used it for over a year now and it has not failed me yet. This meter can measure down to 0.0001 ohms yet uses only a 10 mA test current.
On my mill I have a change in resistance at touchdown of at least 0.1 ohm so the meter easily detects it. Once in a while the change is only 0.02 ohms but it easily sees that too. You can see my "Resistance Amplifier" at rick DOT sparber DOT org/electronics/ramp DOT pdf. You can read about the theory as it applies to a lathe at rick DOT sparber DOT org/ueef DOT pdf
Note: GoDaddy scans all of my files for tampering at least once a day.
Now, my Resistance Amplifier is designed to precisely measure milli ohms and that is overkill. All we need in order to have an EEF is see changes in resistance. I have been playing with a version that is far simpler which actually can fit inside a Harbor Freight multi meter and should cost under $5. As with the Resistance Amplifier, it would have no on/off switch. I have a bad habit of forgetting to turn battery powered devices off. So instead, removal of the probes turns the device off.
On my mill, I use the Tormach Tooling System. When I want to find zero, I slide a 0.750" diameter length of drill rod in the TTS collet. When zero is compared to running my mechanical rotary edge finder, they agree to within a tenth. So run-out is acceptable. On my lathe, it is best to take a skin cut so the surface is at a constant radius. Then I can set zero to better than a tenth. This EEF is particularly handy when I must touch down a boring bar in the bottom of a hole.
Rick Sparber
Rick DOT Sparber DOT org
KG7MQL