what's the right way to machine the middle of a rod?

Ken from ontario

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I'm working on a piece of Aluminum rod 1.9" in Diameter,3.5" long I want to machine the middle part 1" wide, to a diameter of 1.25", 1.187" away from either ends ,the workpiece will have a "dumbbell" shape.
I have been using my triangle carbide insert ,it does the job but I'm taking .003" on each pass, it'll take forever to get to the desired diameter.

Should I cut two beveled reliefs on either ends first and then machine in between?what cutting tool is more appropriate.
I'd appreciate your help.

inch-dumbbell-replica-01.jpg
 
Ken, I would use my parting tool and define the end cuts. I would make two cuts per side to widen it, then go in with a 1/4" HSS tool with a somewhat pointed end and then round the nose of the cutter. The cutter will cut both ways, toward the chuck or toward the tailstock. If you use a 15 degree relief angle on the sides and leave the top flat, it will easily take a 0.030" deep cut in aluminum.
 
Why not cut the end sections, and fit straight rod between them?
 
Mike, thanks for your quick reply, I'm on my way back to the shop to do it, will let you know .:cheerful:

Forgot to tell you that it is called a round nose tool and is very handy. I use it mostly in brass but have cut steel and aluminum with it. Leaves a nice finish, too.
 
You are creating a groove so use a grooving tool or at that depth a parting tool, if there is a radius at the bottom rough with the parting tool then finish with a round profile tool of the correct radius. If a NC lathe program the angles and radii using both sides of the parting tool.

If doing so on a manual machine turn one face at a time using the compound when finishing.
Use a tool like so https://www.iscar.com/eCatalog/Family.aspx?fnum=417&mapp=IS&app=27&GFSTYP=M
 
Forgot to tell you that it is called a round nose tool and is very handy. I use it mostly in brass but have cut steel and aluminum with it. Leaves a nice finish, too.
It worked perfectly Mike, thanks. I happened to have exactly the tool you described, it was part of the set of of 6 I got from LMS as my training set, it looks like a grooving tool with a round nose and a 22° relief angle on the sides, I didn't dare taking off .030" on each pass , the most I removed was .015" .:).

Why not cut the end sections, and fit straight rod between them?
The part I'm working on is going to be a drawbar wrench/ hammer with a hex wrench on one end and a flat on the other end , your way works but I'd prefer it to be one piece just like a hammer .

If doing so on a manual machine turn one face at a time using the compound when finishing.
Use a tool like so https://www.iscar.com/eCatalog/Family.aspx?fnum=417&mapp=IS&app=27&GFSTYP=M
That bit is on my shopping list , I have their nogaflex indicator holder and it is a decent tool.
 
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