Whats the deal with all the Antifreeze

It seems like all the car manufactures want to have there own formulation. Whether they are all different I don't know. I know some of the Diesels are definitely different.
 
All the usual stuff looks to be "normally" priced.

And a warning to those that have other people service their vehicles: If you have someone else change you coolant, whatever you have will be dumped and replaced with the cheap yellow crap even if your vehicle should absolutely have something different.

GsT
 
The one that was listed at $100 was for a case of 6 gal.
 
Most of the stuff in your link is RV & marine antifreeze. It's only meant to be used in potable waterlines to flush out water. It will freeze, but it does not expand when it freezes like water. There are usually 3 different concentrations. One will remain liquid or turn to a slush at -25*F. One is good to -50*F, and the 3rd is good to -75*F.

None of it is worth more than about $6.00 a gallon. We buy it at the local farm store by the case for our motorhome.


ON EDIT: I don't know why the link keeps displaying as "Pardon Our Interruption" but it does go to the antifreeze available at one of our local Farm & Fleet stores.

A number of different vehicle manufacturers use different color antifreezes. They're a little more expensive in that they are used for summer coolant as well as antifreeze during the winter months. The most expensive ones are usually for extended use. Traditional antifreeze was changed every other year or 24,000 miles. Extended service antifreeze is usually good for at least 50,000 miles or 5 years.

Also look at the concentration on the container. Many of the offerings today are already diluted to 50/50. We've been using Prestone Extended life antifreeze in our vehicles for years. Full strength gallons run $14.00 at the local farm stores.

 
All the usual stuff looks to be "normally" priced.

And a warning to those that have other people service their vehicles: If you have someone else change you coolant, whatever you have will be dumped and replaced with the cheap yellow crap even if your vehicle should absolutely have something different.

GsT
That may be true in some places, but not in reputable garages. We have our cars, trucks, and motorhome serviced at the local Ford dealership. They only use Motorcraft full concentrate unless the customer specifies something else. The invoice details each part with the part # and cost.
 
That may be true in some places, but not in reputable garages. We have our cars, trucks, and motorhome serviced at the local Ford dealership. They only use Motorcraft full concentrate unless the customer specifies something else. The invoice details each part with the part # and cost.
When I bought the F250 diesel , I joined the Ford Truck Enthusiest forum . Read up on this for a few days and did an entire oil and radiator flush etc . I remember it was a red color and had to flush the system 4 or 5 times with distilled water after super flush . Did the work myself and it was still close to $500 after all the filters and fluids . Haven't really put many miles on it since Ive had it but so far so good . ( other than the turbo downpipe broke and lit the hood insulation on fire twice ) :eek: Never heard of stickion (sp) before owning a diesel either , but I added it into the 15 qts of oil . Thats an expensive oil change and I don't trust mechanics in the area any more after finding what they did on the Honda .
 
I've torn down a lot of engines, and corrosion is definitely a problem. Different metals, temperatures, all sorts of variables contribute to eating holes here and there in heads, blocks, sleeves, bulkhead seals, on and on... It's worth the price for the spec stuff. The big benefit of modern coolant is it lasts a very long time, and may not need changed for many years compared to the seasonal or annual flush for the yellow stuff like we had to do in decades past.
 
Newer cars have specific types of coolant mixes to use,as well as the coolant longevity. There has also been discussions on mineral content if you add water to anti-freeze. There is a reason to use a manufacturer's recommended coolant type, but doesn't mean that you need to buy it from the dealer. I have a older Toyota Tundra and newish BMW, they take different coolant types. I also add a water wetter which can lower coolant temperature significantly as well as additional anti-corrosion inhibitors.
 
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