What to get for new lathe

A

alan camby

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Hey everyone,
Just ordered my first lathe today, a new G4003G.
I have been watching all the Tubal Cain video's and many others on YouTube. I would like to start out with just a few tools for the lathe.

I would like some boring bars, some kind of thread cutter, and obviously a few cutters for cutting the OD and face of a part.
Will just be cutting mild steel for now and most of the time in the future.

Boring
Are these Ok for boring bars, or should I look at something else? http://www.grizzly.com/products/Carbide-Insert-CCMT-Boring-Bar-Set-4-pc-/T10439
I realize that these require Inserts.

Would I be better off with brazed carbide cutters like this? http://www.grizzly.com/products/Carbide-Boring-Bar-9-pc-Set-1-2-Shank/G4053


Threading
I was wanting to start out with a tool to cut the OD of a part and learn the ID (boring bar threading) later.
So was thinking about getting a few "E" brazed carbide tipped tools. Thought this would be a good starting point?

OD and face cutting
What are the must have tools for cutting down the OD and facing a part. Can I get by for now (learning) with a AR bit or should I get a few styles, if so which style? Should I go with the largest shank size my tool holders can handle for rigidity, Or should I do something like 3/8, ect. What is your "Go to" turning tool for most jobs?

I will also want to get a cutofff tool. Is the Grizzly OK or am I wasting money.http://www.grizzly.com/products/Parting-Tool-Holder-Series-200/G5704
and http://www.grizzly.com/products/M2-HSS-Cut-Off-Blades-3-32-x-5-8-x-5-/H4268
What is a good thickness/size for the HSS cut off blade. 1/8", 3/32", ect.

I know I am also going to need some tool holders (think my machine uses the 200 style post) for boring bars and square tools.

I have a excellent set of general tools in the garage. Taps, Dies, drills to 1",Drill bits for tap sizes, milling machine with endmills, Powermatic 1150 DP, 2 Wilton vises, ect, ect, and a full 72" tool box.

I don't have any problem spending a few hundred dollars to get up and going at learning a few things.

Any help on brands, must haves, tools to avoid, ect. All would be great.
I get a really good deal on USA made square shank brazed carbide tool bits (not boring bars) so this is why I want to go that route with those.
I can get the E, AR, AL, C, D, BR, and BL at cost thru my work. They are all C-5/C-6 carbide.

Thanks for any help, know there is a lot here.

Alan
 
Alan,
Nice lathe you have ordered.
The more experienced members will probably recommend that you get hss/cobalt blanks and learn to grind your own cutters.
I recommend the same except that if you can afford it go ahead and get the carbide insert boring bar set. Make sure you have a boring bar tool holder with sleeves that will accept each size of boring bar. It will need to fit to your quick change tool post. While your at it get a set for turning/facing as well.

Like this:http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-Piece-Indexable-Carbide-Set-1-2-/T10294

That cut off tool will work well for you. I have the same. 1/8" is good.

Getting the carbide insert sets will get you going right away. Please dont use that as an excuse not to learn how to grind your own hss tools. Grinding your own will go a long ways towards giving you a good understanding of tool cutter geometry.


I noticed your lathe has a quick change tool post. That is one of the first things i got for my lathe as i was really getting frustrated with setting tool on center every time i changed cutters.
And get extra inserts, you will need them.
 
Well, all good questions and all good preliminary choices for tooling...

I'd really recommend getting your hands on about 50lbs of 6061 AL bar stock in 2 and 3" diameters along with some HSS bits and go to town for a week or two. After that, switch over to some 1018 steel. Then you can add carbide to your list. Everything you learn about HSS will apply to carbide and sooner rather than later, you will need HSS -as carbide completely goes south on cuts less than 10 thou or so. For carbide, get the appropriate inserts for the material you plan to use but starting out with basic TiN coated is a good bet. Also, you'll need a grinder and grinding wheels. 60 or 80 grit AL oxide is fine for HSS and a diamond wheel for carbide. BTW: I'm not a big fan of brazed carbide except for the cheapo HF 3/8" units that come in packs of 10 or 20. Those are sacrificial when cutting interrupted pieces.

For carbide, I'm starting to really like greanleaf products. Visit their web page.

As for tool holders, just get yourself the BXA kit sold by Tools4Cheap.net and if you can, order as many extra holders as possible. I'm up to about 30 and still could use more. My "go to" cutter really depends on what I'm cutting but a RH TCMT 3251 or 3252 followed by the LH tool is probably high on the list.

Suggest you steer clear of really hard or tough metal until you get your bearings with AL and low-carbon. Start basic and work your way up. You have the advantage of starting-out with a decent lathe which will cut down the number of variables for things to go wrong.

Be careful, never lose respect for the machine -and have fun.

Ray
 
Hello Alan,
Some more "for what its worth" info.

Boring Bars
I have an older set of the insert style boring bars. I think they are Sandvig brand, but the Griz version you show looks a lot like them.
The Sandevigs have a round shaft with flats milled so you can either clamp it in a boring bar holder, or just clamp it it a regular tool holder. The flats hold the insert at a fixed rake angle when clamped in a regular holder - I think about -7 deg.
I also have a full set of Armstrong boring bars that use HSS insert. For the Armstrongs, you have to use a round clamp and set the rake angle.
I find that I reach for the Sandvig version just about every time. I usually keep one clamped in a regular tool holder - ready to go.
Only rarely have I felt the need to use the Armstrong with the adjustable angles.
You might also check places like the allindustrialtoolsupply on EBay. They have a lot of imported toolpost components at low cost.

Cut-Off
I have the BXA sized cut-off mount similar to the one you show. It is designed for the 5/8" cut off, but you can also install a 1/2" if you use a 1/4" HSS blank for a shim. I have parted off 2" solid steel rounds with the 5/8 blade with no problems. Buy a couple of spare blades in case you break one off. Carbcuttool on EBay is one source of the Empire blades - you can get them TiN coated.

Threading
Others may have different experience, but I am never able to seem to get a smooth thread with the E style brazed carbide tool. I always end up going back to a ground HSS thread tool. Maybe it's because I like to thread at low speed - easier to catch the dial. Remember to get a "fishtail" gage for setting up the tool.

Turning and Facing
I end up using a lot of brazed carbides for this - mostly because I have a large stock that came with an old toolbox that I bought. I have lots of 1/4", 3/8" and a few 1/2" sizes. I seem to use the 3/8 size a lot. Heavy enough that they are fairly rigid, but small enough to get into places where the 1/2's are too big. I use mostly AR and AL versions. I have a lot of BRs and BLs - but for some reason I don't seem to use them a lot. One issue with the brazed carbides is chip breaking. If you need a chip breaker, you pretty much have to grind it in yourself. I've never been able to pull that off, so for problem materials, I use an insert type tool with a pre-formed chip breaker.

Drills
You didn't mention drilling. I find that I end up doing a fair amount of drilling on my projects - either just to drill, or to open up to get a boring bar in. For sure, you need a set of center drills of various sizes for drilling centers. For regular drilling, I like to use "stub length" screw machine size drills - at least to get started. They are shorter than jobber length and present a more rigid set-up to get started. Otherwise, regular jobber length drill bits will work for most situations. I suspect that your lathe will come with a drill chuck for the tailstock. Another addition is some type of plug to keep the ID of the tailstock MT clean when it is not being used. I have seen some guys use a cork, others a piece of tape. Or, for a starter project, you can try your hand at turning a Morse Taper plug that will fit. Any type of swarf or grit that gets into the MT bore or on the MT shank can damage the fit if it remains it there when you set the chuck. There is less to clean if you keep the MT bore covered. You could just leave the drill chuck installed, but I then I find that the drill chuck fills up with debris.

Others
Your lathe will probably come with dead centers and a dog for turning on centers and maybe a live center. I have a couple of live centers - one regular and one inverted. I find that I almost never use a dead center in the tailstock - the live center is too easy.

Don't believe everything I have to say. See what some of the other guys have to recommend.
Terry S.

edited to correct BL
 
We use the HSS insert tooling from AR Warner, www.arwarnerco.com. All their kits work great but, we really like their profiling and threading tools. To resharpen, just rub the insert upside down on an oil stone. For general turning with a polished looking finish, use the Diamond Tool holder sold by www.bay-com.com.
Bobby
 
Thanks guys for all the input:))
I appreciate your time and effort to help me out.

Bobby,
I looked at that diamond tool holder and it looks pretty slick. I looked all over the site and can't find anywhere to order a RH holder?

Edit: I found where to buy on the Bay site.


Anyone else use these?
 
Just ordered the cut off tool, 2 blades for the CO tool, a 3/4" 1" boring bar tool holder, 1/2" boring bar/square tool holder, a spare square tool holder. All of this was from Grizzly.

I ordered from Mcmaster-Carr a 3/8" square AR-6 carbide insert holder with c5 insert, and 1/2" boring bar with two 3/16" M2 HSS tool blanks. All The Mcmaster stuff is USA made.

That will get me started.

I really would like to try the Diamond tool holder. Anyone else using it? What size should I get for my 12x36 lathe?

thanks
 
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I am enjoying the use of A. Warner toolbits also.
In additon to the HSS inserts, they have carbide inserts.
Having just ordered the carbide inserts, I cant say how well they work, but I would certainly think the outcome will be good.

Its good down the road to have the grinder and good wheels. But even with the harbor freight grinder low price, two good wheels set you back another $150+.
Having said that, there have been two instance where the frinder does "pay off". one was a large radius bit - a form tool so to say. and a small., almost minature, 45 deg bit to reach inside for a little ways. And fly cutter bits.
although now having spent the big bucks on a Glacern face mill..... ;) no more fly cutter whomp-whomp.
I am still learning newbie also.
 
timbertoes said:
I am enjoying the use of A. Warner toolbits also.
In additon to the HSS inserts, they have carbide inserts.
Having just ordered the carbide inserts, I cant say how well they work, but I would certainly think the outcome will be good.

Its good down the road to have the grinder and good wheels. But even with the harbor freight grinder low price, two good wheels set you back another $150+.
Having said that, there have been two instance where the frinder does "pay off". one was a large radius bit - a form tool so to say. and a small., almost minature, 45 deg bit to reach inside for a little ways. And fly cutter bits.
although now having spent the big bucks on a Glacern face mill..... ;) no more fly cutter whomp-whomp.
I am still learning newbie also.
Click to expand...

Why are the grinder wheels $150? Guess I haven't bought wheels for a while. My last two were free samples from work.:))
I have a very nice Baldor 8" grinder that I got for free from my last job. They did a audit of the plant and said the grinder was a fire hazard since sparks were produced when grinding. So i helped the company by removing the fire hazard.

I also have a 2x72 belt sander. Does anyone sharpen HSS on a belt sander?
 
The very first thing you need to do is to get acquainted with the lathe. Over time it will tell you what it needs and what it doesn't.

"Billy G"
 
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