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what size cutting tools
- Thread starter downeast
- Start date
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- Oct 18, 2016
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What kind of toolholder does your lathe have?
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2016
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Hello downeast,
You'll have to give a bit more info aye? Like what is the lathe? Size? There are quite a few lathes in the 'mini' category and each has its foibles.
You'll have to give a bit more info aye? Like what is the lathe? Size? There are quite a few lathes in the 'mini' category and each has its foibles.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
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- 2,138
Shimming is the solution for smaller tooling, especially on larger machines. I keep a number of 18 Ga shims in my toolbox. And pieces of feeler gauge so it can be fine tuned. Most times I use an AXA QC holder but occasionally need to use a more rigid base on a 12" machine. That's when the shims and feeler gauge come into play.
thanks will give this a try and see what happens I seem to have two different sizes of cutting tools one size looks like 5/16 what is the best tools for these small lathes I am not impressed with the cheap carbide tipped things from China that I have, have to grind each one before using them any help would be welcome haven't run a lathe for over fifty years and wanted to have something small to fool with got an 8x16 and it seems to run real smooth and quiet and seems to do quite well with better tools I think it will suit me thanks again
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2014
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Welcome to the site, What type of tool holder do you have. Like they said you may need to shim them to get them on center, I have even taken as small piece of tool steel to put under a tool to get it up on center when using small items in a larger holder. Just make sure you clamp it down nice and tight so it does not slip around.
Again welcome to the forum
Again welcome to the forum
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2014
- Messages
- 932
Welcome to the best hobby machinist forum on the planet.
The standard min lathe usually uses 5/16" tools, but you may still need to shim them. Any other size will need a shim. Anything larger buy a QCTP and never worry about it again. LMS sells a 0XA QCTP with holders:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3112&category=
Roy
The standard min lathe usually uses 5/16" tools, but you may still need to shim them. Any other size will need a shim. Anything larger buy a QCTP and never worry about it again. LMS sells a 0XA QCTP with holders:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3112&category=
Roy
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
- Messages
- 2,138
Over the years, I have used from Pop's electric drill, a UniMat DB-200, through the "minis", a Grizzly 1550, and an Atlas/Craftsman 12x36. Of my own, then add in a few I've used once or twice of others'. In all those cases, I used a 1/4" Chinabide tool for general cutting. I seem to bust an inordinate number of tools (and knuckles) so find the cheapest available. I also make a lot of customized cutters for my model building projects. Then manage to lose most of them when the project is done so end up making another for some other project. Shimming cheap tooling is a way of life in my shop.....
You mention the less than ideal tooling (Chinabide) that usually comes from Harbor Freight or the like. I get a large percentage of my cutting tools from there and don't understand your having to grind them before use. To start with, when grinding carbide tools, you must use a "green wheel" grinder. A regular grinder is never used on carbide. It won't cut it. It gets cut by it. You must use a silicon carbide grinder. Or, I use a diamond grinder with my Dremel tool when making shaped cutters.
You probably have a problem with centering verticaly. With tool steel cutters, setting tools is fairly easy, albeit touchy. Carbide is a little more exacting. The cutting edge should be dead center or just a fuzz below. Never above. My mustache hair is 0.007. A fuzz is about a third or less than that. Use a slip of paper or shim stock between a round item chucked up and the tool. If the paper tilts away from you the tool is too high. If it tilts toward you, it is too low. Ideally, it should be dead vertical. A nail or a short piece of pipe would do for starts.
I do most of my work in brass or mild steel, very little with the tougher grades. There are many who could give a more usable answer. There are many books, as well, on the subject. My advice (seldom given) would be read up on it. I won't suggest the best book for you to study. There are many and your use is likely far different from mine. Face it, I am as likely to rough with a tool and finish with a file. Not very professional.....
You mention the less than ideal tooling (Chinabide) that usually comes from Harbor Freight or the like. I get a large percentage of my cutting tools from there and don't understand your having to grind them before use. To start with, when grinding carbide tools, you must use a "green wheel" grinder. A regular grinder is never used on carbide. It won't cut it. It gets cut by it. You must use a silicon carbide grinder. Or, I use a diamond grinder with my Dremel tool when making shaped cutters.
You probably have a problem with centering verticaly. With tool steel cutters, setting tools is fairly easy, albeit touchy. Carbide is a little more exacting. The cutting edge should be dead center or just a fuzz below. Never above. My mustache hair is 0.007. A fuzz is about a third or less than that. Use a slip of paper or shim stock between a round item chucked up and the tool. If the paper tilts away from you the tool is too high. If it tilts toward you, it is too low. Ideally, it should be dead vertical. A nail or a short piece of pipe would do for starts.
I do most of my work in brass or mild steel, very little with the tougher grades. There are many who could give a more usable answer. There are many books, as well, on the subject. My advice (seldom given) would be read up on it. I won't suggest the best book for you to study. There are many and your use is likely far different from mine. Face it, I am as likely to rough with a tool and finish with a file. Not very professional.....
Bill Hudson