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- May 14, 2019
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- 660
Have you thought about taking a car hood and flipping it over, weld a couple attaching points put the broken ATV on and strap down? It looks like you could mount it to your top???
Love the Argo, looks like fun
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What job did you do today in your shop?
- Thread starter HMF
- Start date
Love the Argo, looks like fun
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- Apr 23, 2018
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- 6,893
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- Oct 7, 2020
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They should have tied the rope to the side of the hood when using the excavator.
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- Joined
- Jan 25, 2015
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- 2,558
Yessir. 306 is a nice model. I also have a set of dual needles for my 319W. They sit in a box, never to be used. can't get them anymore. But, my 319 has been modified to use the standard length 15x1 needles so I don't need to use my ultra rare dual needles......
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- Jan 25, 2015
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Nah, that's just more garbage to haul around. Not my problem if a quad gets more broken if I have to haul it out of the woods for them. They understand the alternative is usually to leave it where it is, in which case it would be pretty stripped after a couple days left in the woods. That's not to say we won't stop and try to readjust if we're doing damage to the disabled quad, just that any damage is all on them....
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- Joined
- May 14, 2019
- Messages
- 660
Growing up we would get to spend time with our grandparents over the holidays. Invariable we would get towed behind vehicles on hoods, sleighs, inner tubes whatever we could find. As a teenager with a drivers license the speeds and concerns for those behind dropped dramatically. I've towed my kids on tubes with horses through the fields. We never had anything fancy with seats but still had fun.
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- Jan 28, 2011
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- 3,586
Mine has been done as well. Such a simple thing to do, and it opens up the available needles!
Pierre
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- Jan 25, 2015
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They now sell a bobbin case thats already modified for 15x1’s, although it may not fit a 306 if its an older version.
Singer changed the pin retainer location as the model evolved and newer case won’t work in order machines.
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- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,893
I was thinking about crocheting a doily for my granite surface. Do you boys have any tips for crocheting?
Just kidding, biddies. I respect the sewing machine. My dad bought a Juki years ago, and has become quite the expert in upholstery, awnings, and marine canvas. When I was in Kosovo, he sent me an original gearwrench set with my name CNC engraved in them in a heavy vinyl wrench roll that he made for me. 20 years later, it's been my primary wrench set both as a pro and a hobbyist, and the roll is holding up. He started with an electric converted treadle Singer (tough machine by today's standards) and moved up. My wife has a $300 newish chinese Singer that is constructed of gumball machine prizes and brittle plastic, so I'm afraid to touch the thing. You need to program binary sequences on a two-button interface panel to set the stitch, and it runs off of a motor spec'd for a Sony Walkman. They don't make them like they used to.
The sewing machine is a machine tool indeed. Want the feed rate for an 8 gauge needle in 600 denier canvas in a double stitch? I bet that was given in a table somewhere in a past edition of the machinery's handbook.
Just kidding, biddies. I respect the sewing machine. My dad bought a Juki years ago, and has become quite the expert in upholstery, awnings, and marine canvas. When I was in Kosovo, he sent me an original gearwrench set with my name CNC engraved in them in a heavy vinyl wrench roll that he made for me. 20 years later, it's been my primary wrench set both as a pro and a hobbyist, and the roll is holding up. He started with an electric converted treadle Singer (tough machine by today's standards) and moved up. My wife has a $300 newish chinese Singer that is constructed of gumball machine prizes and brittle plastic, so I'm afraid to touch the thing. You need to program binary sequences on a two-button interface panel to set the stitch, and it runs off of a motor spec'd for a Sony Walkman. They don't make them like they used to.
The sewing machine is a machine tool indeed. Want the feed rate for an 8 gauge needle in 600 denier canvas in a double stitch? I bet that was given in a table somewhere in a past edition of the machinery's handbook.
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,558
Had to change out the headlights on the argo (one failed) and it left a big hole on each side:
Rather than buy the same light again (they fail because water can get in the housing and corrode the circuit boards), I went for a different one that is white in the center and amber on the sides. They do side marker functions as well as having a flashing function (like snow plow warning lights). They’re too small to cover the holes, so I 3d printed a new housing to hide the hole, hold the new light and space it forward of the body recess enough so the ambers are clearly visible from the sides:
Not too shabby for a quick kludge up in tinkercad. Still have some post print clean up to do, but they’re pretty close to finished right off the printer. I had to offset the lights to the top of the new housing to clear the brush bar side stay so I added two rows of holes in the lower cover to allow cooling air to circulate around the new light. I probably didn’t need to add the hokes as the light fins make for openings top and bottom, but I didn’t want to leave a big flat panel on the bottom. Adds just a touch of “panache”…
They’re just sitting there right now, will mount and wire them tomorrow. The Argo doesn’t make a lot of charging power (have to add a “one wire” alternator), so I replaced all the incandescent bulbs with led.
Also nearly finished making the weather cover:
another hour or two of stitching and it will be ready for the Canadian winter…
Rather than buy the same light again (they fail because water can get in the housing and corrode the circuit boards), I went for a different one that is white in the center and amber on the sides. They do side marker functions as well as having a flashing function (like snow plow warning lights). They’re too small to cover the holes, so I 3d printed a new housing to hide the hole, hold the new light and space it forward of the body recess enough so the ambers are clearly visible from the sides:
Not too shabby for a quick kludge up in tinkercad. Still have some post print clean up to do, but they’re pretty close to finished right off the printer. I had to offset the lights to the top of the new housing to clear the brush bar side stay so I added two rows of holes in the lower cover to allow cooling air to circulate around the new light. I probably didn’t need to add the hokes as the light fins make for openings top and bottom, but I didn’t want to leave a big flat panel on the bottom. Adds just a touch of “panache”…
They’re just sitting there right now, will mount and wire them tomorrow. The Argo doesn’t make a lot of charging power (have to add a “one wire” alternator), so I replaced all the incandescent bulbs with led.
Also nearly finished making the weather cover:
another hour or two of stitching and it will be ready for the Canadian winter…
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