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Banjo5

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Happy Thanksgiving Day!

I bought a partly disassembled ATLAS TH54 10F & JVM 026 recently, and am still sorting through boxes of stuff I got with them. So far, I have the following - 3&4 jaw chucks, steady & following rests, a Kennedy toolbox full of all sizes & shapes of bits & indexable carbide inserts(no holders though), 5 atlas & williams toolholders, a thread-on-the spindle Jacobs chuck, about 25 calipers, 2 #2MT dead centers(junk), 1 V grooved pad for tailstock centering of rounds, taper attachment. I got some things I can't I.D. & would appreciate help. See attached photo. One of the items, I've been told, could be a quick mount for armatures//generators, the other item(no photo yet) could be a homemade tailstock replacement for long, long stock, where the lathe tailstock would be removed from the lathe, and this piece mounted on a bench or table some distance away. (can't find the photo of this one- will send with later post)

I have replaced the split nuts and done a lot of cleanup work and assembly of the drive components. The ways mic just over .375(.378) which is a surprise because I thought I saw somewhere that .375 was the as-new dimension. Can anyone explain this? There is no noticeable wear to the ways that can be felt with a fingernail. A thought - I didn't check my mic, but it has been reliable in the past.

Locating the jackshaft drive base took some real studying, but I am pretty close now. I will have to move it over about 3/4" to line up with the headstock pulley again since I discovered that the jackshaft pulley was not in the right place initially and will have to be repositioned over the key. One problem I've come to with the jack shaft pulley is that the bore is in poor shape, but may yet be useable. The woodruff key was not sticking out of the slot more than about 3/32" & it appears the pulley worked off it with the previous owner, & chewed up the edge of the keyslot. The very shallow key may have been loctited in because I really mangled it getting it to move. Heating it finally helped, but still don't have it out.

The leadscrew is worn a little in the area near the headstock, but after cleaning looks pretty good. The 1/2 HP ATLAS motor runs fine & is smooth & quiet.

I am looking forward to getting this lathe running so I can start working on the mill.

Oh, One other thing, I have a Craftsman 6x18 lathe that I bought at a yardsale 20-30 years ago. I've tinkered with it over the years and cut my teeth on it, so am looking forward to being able to do more and bigger things with the ATLAS, but I am going to keep the Craftsman for small jobs here in the basement.P1040462.JPG P1040496.JPG P1040497.JPG P1040464.JPG P1040475.JPG .
Arature holder? chewed up bore shallow key Jet mill & Atlas Kennedy chest
Regards,
Roy- (BANJO5)
 
Photo 1, no clue.

Photo 2 & 3, you could bore and sleeve the pulley, just make sure you get good keyway engagement in both bore and shaft. A taller key would help, and you could broach or carefully file the keyway in the pulley deeper as well. You will need to be careful to not widen the keyways. No slop allowed. If the pulley keyway is already loose you may need to go to a wider as well as taller key and recut the shaft as well. Or cut a second keyway in the pulley and start fresh again. You may need to make a custom key.

Photo 5, I have never seen a Kennedy box with that style drawer pulls. It looks like it has been modified and cleaned up. If they are original then that is a very old and special box, and it looks to be in great condition as well.
 
Photo 1: Looks as though it is missing a few parts. If it were in my stash I'd classify it as junk.

Mic'n the ways.... wipe the top and bottom front and back end-to-end with clean soft cloth. Be certain mic reads zero first, then check again. Take measurements at some regular intervals, says 3, 4, or 6 inches front and back, write down each to make a map. What's it look like?

Pry that key out of the countershaft and deep six it then get a new one, they are cheap. If you really don't like the condition of the slot get yourself a key cutter and cut a new slot. No excuses here, you have a mill! If the shaft isn't up to par you can replace the shaft with 3/4" TG&P drill rod. That's what I did. No special alloys required, speedymetals.com is my favorite source for small hunks of raw material.

Have a nice Thanksgiving holiday!

Spiral_Chips
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Some really good suggestions here. I'm trying to acquire that quality of thinking out of the box for solutions, and I am astounded by the varied and sometimes simple solutions machinists come up with for solving problems.

I already thought of cutting a new keyway in the shaft to use with the old keyslot in the pulley, but hadn't thought of cutting a new keyway in the pulley. I might be able to do that. Sleeving it also ocurred, but was quickly dismissed because that seems like a BIG DO to my meager abilities - I probably could work it out if I had to. For now, I made a custom key that protrudes further out the shaft keyslot, so it engages 99% of the pulley slot now, where the old key didn't protrude very far into the pulley slot at all.

I will clean the ways and take more careful measurements to produce a map of the wear. Will post a report when I have it.

I thought of a motor question- Should I go to the trouble to provide reversing to the motor? I have a drum switch that can do it, and I know how to hook up the motor, but I'm just wondering how often you need to run in reverse? I've heard of parting off from the backside? backing out of threads you're cutting? But, what else? I'd be afraid of backing the chuck off the threads using reverse.

Banjo5
 
Parting off from the back side would only be practical if you had a turret cross slide with front and rear tool posts. In that case, you can invert the turning tool. The only downside to doing that is that the cutting reaction force is in the direction to lift the carriage so light cuts only.

Backing out of a thread should be safe to do as the force on the cutter is negligible. However, the need for backing out of a thread is a rare occasion for most people.

Running a toolpost grinder on OD work is better done in reverse as the surface motion of the work and the stone isn't in the same direction.

There may be some other reason for running the lathe in reverse but none occur to me at the moment. So do it if you wish as you have the parts. But it will likely be rarely used. That being said, I have reverse on my machine (a 3996) and a special locking chuck (which I have yet to actually need to use). Flustered

One other thing - if you use collets, there is no danger in running in reverse unless your collet chuck screws onto the spindle instead of working through it.
 
The piece with the knurled rim looks like it may be the piece to hold an armature end for turning It should provide support for the
end of the shaft in place of a tail stock center. The shaft would run in it. I may be wrong.
 
Well, it might be. But it is missing the 3-jaw portion. The diameter of motor armature bearing shafts varies widely.

And it is sticking a long way out of the tailstock ram. It looks like that end of it is a straight shaft, not 2MT. In which case whatever it is, it wasn't made for use in a lathe tailstock.
 
The first picture reminds me of a slide over a spring & peg clamp used to do a lot of repetitive work if it were set in the head stock of a lathe
When I was under going disablement resettlement in 1981 i was given a task with something like that , set on a variable speed grinder type machine set on a pedestal . I had to insert 1/4 " thick brass blank disks into the left side ( I'm disabled in my left shoulder joint as well as my spine ) and with my left hand try and polish the faces .
It was a total failure as I have lost the ability to press inwards against the disks with my left arm
 
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Another thing that the top picture has just reminded me of is that of a manual slide to engage /disengage a dog clutch for a cylinder grass cutter with a vertical pot engine ...( the female part )

The pins ought to engage in the splined driven shaft that comes off the engine when the knurled part is slid to the left of the picture . the sliding action usually done by a mechanical yoke & lever arrangement ..not with the bare hands .

Ha more brain waves ..slightly low powered unfortunately :p :D ..
That first picture could it be a quick mounting for grinding the cylinder blades of such a lawnmower , the sort found used for cutting the greens on golf courses ?.. I seem to recall that they are splined for a sprocket & chain drive .
 
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