What Do I Have Here? (vintage Covel Sg)

intjonmiller

intjonmiller

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I just inherited a Covel surface grinder. I had expected to get a mill and my own lathe before getting a surface grinder but I'm certainly not going to pass this up. This was my grandfather's.Grinder.jpg.jpg IMG_1070.jpg IMG_1071.jpg My father gave it to my brother because my father had neither room nor need for it and my brother had both. My father kept the lathes and other goodies. He's not a fool. :)

Now my brother has decided he doesn't need it and wants the space back. He's giving it to me.

I asked him for a picture and the make and model, as well as gross measurements, so I can make room for it. He lives an hour away so it's not practical to just go look. The pictures he sent aren't very clear. Can you tell what model this is?

Also is that a permanent magnetic chuck? I assume?

I have some setup blocks including magnetic chuck-friendly 1-2-4 blocks and v-blocks and regular right angle plates. I have a box of grinding wheels including a "tool room sample pack". I'm not sure if they fit but since they came from my grandfather's basement I assume they do.

What else do I need? Other than rags and solvent (what kind is best?) and elbow grease to clean it up? I have lots of scrap A36 flat bar stock to practice on.

I need to stop writing about this and go make room for it. Oh, any idea how much it weighs? Need to borrow a trailer to get it so I want to make sure I get one that is up to the task.

Thanks!
 
I forgot to mention I also have a diamond dressing tool. Good, solid base for use with the grinder. And I used it handheld to true up my bench grinder wheel so it seems to be in working order even though it looks rather short/worn.
 
Just to look at it I would say that is a 6x12, a nice little machine.

Yes, that is a wide pole permanent magnet chuck. The holding capacity is not as good as a fine pole chuck, so be sure to block your work with additional steel plates to keep the parts from flying off of the table.

Rags and solvent (any standard solvent is good, paint thinner?) is about all you need. Pull the table off (normally they just lift off) and clean and oil the ways. Make sure the oiling system is working.

If the base is cast iron, I'm going to guess it weighs in the 1500 - 2000 lb range. Use caution, these are very top heavy. If possible, pull the grinder off of the base for transport and handling. Finding a place to lift a surface grinder from is a bit difficult. The table is loose and the cross slide just sits on it's ways. You have to attach to something solid like under the main frame.

Make sure the grinding wheels are OK. This is done by holding it near your ear, and snapping it with your finger. It should ring, if you hear a dull ''thud'' then the wheel is cracked and needs to be discarded.
 
I've seen Don Bailey demonstrate the resonance check for cracks. Great tip. That's also how I check tablesaw blades before I buy them, but you're looking for the opposite: one that rings will vibrate and leave a rough cut far more than one that sounds dead.

My main work is in woodworking, so I have lots of paint thinner, acetone, alcohol, mineral spirits, etc. I have a gallon of "earth-friendly" mineral spirits that I picked up because the price was great and I didn't notice the little green symbol in the corner telling me that it wasn't the normal stuff. I wonder if that will work because it's junk for my wood finishing processes.

Thanks for the tips!
 
Congratulations! Interesting tool, I know little about them, but have started looking around.
I'll post back if I find anything useful.....

Yes it is a permanent magnet "chuck" (though I prefer the word vise).

Is your shop area wired properly for the voltage and current required?
You could ask for a clear photo of the motor plate.

You'll also need to find out what type of lubricating oil should be used in that drip-feed oiler. During cleanup you also need to find all the other (hidden) oil locations.

One other thing you'll need when it's ready to run is coolant. Is there a pump on it?

-brino
 
I don't know about the coolant situation. I figured I'll look into that when I get it. He is very busy as a shop manager in an auto repair shop and building his own shop as well. I don't want to bother him more than necessary.

My grandfather apparently modified it to run on 110/120v. But I have 240v as well. Very fortunate there. My garage is very small (1950s idea of a 1-car) but I have decent current so I can run my welder and so forth.
 
It looks like it will be a sweet machine when you get it cleaned up, but has been sitting for a while.

Apparently, starting up a Surface Grinder, after sitting for a long time, is not a "Plug and Play" situation. You just need to make sure you lubricate those GRADE 7 bearings really well, and SPIN THE SPINDLE BY HAND FOR A WHILE BEFORE EVEN PULSING THE MOTOR ON.

These super precise bearings can be easily, permanently damaged when not started correctly after sitting, especially as long as that one has. They are also EXPENSIVE to replace, so just be patient. Especially since this is a machine that could hold "tenth's" for you if you treat it right!

Double check the spindle is lubed properly (I think overlubed at first is ok), and then start by turning the spindle slowly by hand and feel how it is. It doesn't have to be perfect from the first second, but you want to get that lube in there, and soften anything that has gotten hard or glunky before hitting any real RPM's.
When it feels smooth while turning with your hand, keep turning it for a while. I did this for a few days, every time I walked by it, and once in a while I just sat turning it.

Then, start the same way, by hand, and try either BARELY pulsing the motor, or try spinning it with a cordless drill on low speed or something.
Eventually, pulse the motor to partial speed, and keep listening and lubing.

Eventually again, try full speed. Whenever you get to that, run it for a while without cutting at all. Plenty of lube. Did I say that? hah ha. Maybe someone here could give more advice if the spindle has been grease-lubed. Some are converted to that.


Bernie
 
Great advice! What would you recommend using to first lube it up? I'm thinking something like PB Blaster to loosen up what was already there, then to help clean up the gunk. Most of it would be removed in the cleaning stage and then replaced with something proper (which in my reading is somewhere between economy ATF and Vactra or Vacuoline...). Does that sound reasonable?

Thanks!
 
I also need to figure out a way to cover this up when not in use. I do woodworking (table, miter, radial arm, and handheld saws, jointer, planer, belt and random orbit sanders, etc.), as well as welding, cutoff saw, angle and die grinding, etc. in the same space. Anything to be considered when selecting the material to use or can I just get a cheap Harbor Freight tarp and modify it to more-or-less fit? I assume that is sufficient but I don't like to make assumptions when it matters.
 
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