What Are The Top Brands In Electrodes For Dc Arc Welding?

[ome]

Hi Everyone,
I finally decided to get a miller thunderbolt
Xl 225/150 ac/dc welder.
This is my first welder, so which brand would be the best to start with for basic practice on flat horizontal surface, just laying the beads inbetween the two surfaces.
1/8" e 6010 and e 7018.
Which would be the easier to strike an arc for a total newb?

 

[gr8legs]

I'm no expert but when I took a welding class they started us with 6011 for DC and 7014 for AC. With 1/8" rod we used about 120 amps +/-

7014 on AC is almost too easy - just drag the rod and you're welding. A great way to get the feel of the process and then switch to 6011 or similar to get technique.

YMMV

Stu

 

[Ulma Doctor]

Hi Ome,

IMO 6010 is an easier rod to start and keep lit. it is used for root passes and on dirty/poor fit up metal.
we used the drag & whip and we like it that way!!! lol
with an inverter welder you'll be dragging small "Z's" with it , a short arc
i have seen demonstration of small overlapping ovals as a technique too.
6010 is an all position rod that burns deep and can be used as "cutting rod" if you turn up the dial and use a sawing motion when the arc starts melting metal away. it's very crude, but very quick!

7018 is often used for everyday welding in all positions.
it has an iron power flux that lends very nicely to weld unknown grades of steels and their alloys.
in other words it's the go to rod for arc welding.
in a lot of welding operations like pipefitting and structural welding a rod like 6010 is used for root passes to simply join the sections,
then a rod like 7018 is used for the binding, higher strength, welds.

i have burned my share (and probably someone elses too) of Lincoln E7010- a higher tensile strength(70,000 psi vs 60,000 psi in e 6010)
when i welded for a spell as an ironworker.
Nothing is as nice IMO as running 7024 in the flat or horizontal position- it's called Jet Rod for a reason!

 

[ome]

Hi Ome,

IMO 6010 is an easier rod to start and keep lit. it is used for root passes and on dirty/poor fit up metal.
we used the drag & whip and we like it that way!!! lol
with an inverter welder you'll be dragging small "Z's" with it , a short arc
i have seen demonstration of small overlapping ovals as a technique too.
6010 is an all position rod that burns deep and can be used as "cutting rod" if you turn up the dial and use a sawing motion when the arc starts melting metal away. it's very crude, but very quick!

7018 is often used for everyday welding in all positions.
it has an iron power flux that lends very nicely to weld unknown grades of steels and their alloys.
in other words it's the go to rod for arc welding.
in a lot of welding operations like pipefitting and structural welding a rod like 6010 is used for root passes to simply join the sections,
then a rod like 7018 is used for the binding, higher strength, welds.

i have burned my share (and probably someone elses too) of Lincoln E7010- a higher tensile strength(70,000 psi vs 60,000 psi in e 6010)
when i welded for a spell as an ironworker.
Nothing is as nice IMO as running 7024 in the flat or horizontal position- it's called Jet Rod for a reason!

Thanks for your advice , I learned alot just reading the few paragraphs you wrote.
ome

 

[aliva]

As said above 7018 is an all position rod with high strength, 6010 and 6011 are a high penetration fast freeze rod they are usually used for root passes on pipe. Cover and cap on pipe use 7018. 7024 Jet rod is primarily used for flat joints , it can be used for horizontal but a little harder to do.7024 is very easy to use ,hold it on the work piece and just drag no need to try and maintain an arc gap as the flux burns off it creates a concave to the electrode thus creating the arc gap. You can literally drag it and close you eyes all you have to do is keep feeding it.1/8" 7018 usually preforms good at 117-120 amps depending on how accurate you machine is, the same 1/8" 7024 requires more amperage 118-125, (more flux on the 7024) Since 7018 and 7024 are low hydrogen rods they must be kept in a warming oven at around 140 -150 F. Thats if the welds are going to be x rayed. for the average hobbyist don't bother. just keep the humidity off of them. A cabinet with a 60 watt light bulb will do the trick in most cases. There are hundreds of welding electrodes on the market, one for every situation and material. Some are electrode positive and some are electrode negative do some research. some materials require post heat while others per-heat, the list goes on and on. for a beginner get some 7018, 7024 ( for flat ), and 6010 or 6011, and you'll be able to stick most things together.Remember 7018, 6010,6011,7024 are electrode positive, work negative. Loads of things to learn about welding, good luck.

 

[RJSakowski]

I like 7014 because it is easy to strike and maintain an arc and on flat passes at least, the flux almost peels itself off. If welding an inside fillet, the flux almost gets in the way because of the large amount. You will get better penetration with other rods. 7018 can be tricky to start and there is definitely a difference with different manufacturers. It has better penetration, particularly if you use a back and forth or oval motion when laying the bead. It also handles rust or scale better. Around here, the farmers seem to prefer 6011 or 6013. They do well with rusty iron and that may be why. I have found them to be more tricky striking the arc. Once moving, they work ok. I have a Thunderbolt myself and mostly use 1/8" rod. I often use a 7018 rod for a root pass to get good penetration and finish with the 7014 for the nice quality bead.

 

[ome]

As said above 7018 is an all position rod with high strength, 6010 and 6011 are a high penetration fast freeze rod they are usually used for root passes on pipe. Cover and cap on pipe use 7018. 7024 Jet rod is primarily used for flat joints , it can be used for horizontal but a little harder to do.7024 is very easy to use ,hold it on the work piece and just drag no need to try and maintain an arc gap as the flux burns off it creates a concave to the electrode thus creating the arc gap. You can literally drag it and close you eyes all you have to do is keep feeding it.1/8" 7018 usually preforms good at 117-120 amps depending on how accurate you machine is, the same 1/8" 7024 requires more amperage 118-125, (more flux on the 7024) Since 7018 and 7024 are low hydrogen rods they must be kept in a warming oven at around 140 -150 F. Thats if the welds are going to be x rayed. for the average hobbyist don't bother. just keep the humidity off of them. A cabinet with a 60 watt light bulb will do the trick in most cases. There are hundreds of welding electrodes on the market, one for every situation and material. Some are electrode positive and some are electrode negative do some research. some materials require post heat while others per-heat, the list goes on and on. for a beginner get some 7018, 7024 ( for flat ), and 6010 or 6011, and you'll be able to stick most things together.Remember 7018, 6010,6011,7024 are electrode positive, work negative. Loads of things to learn about welding, good luck.

Thank You Aliva, you gave me alot of information, which is greatly appreciated.
I am reading " welding essentials" and "metals, and how to weld them" from the Lincoln foundation.
Watching good video of the molten puddle and stick movements.
I can' t wait till I can get to it and practice.
Thanks again,
Raf