I got to be honest here, in the past when ever I needed to cut any metal I would use abrasives. Well I got a used 4X6 chinese bandsaw a couple years ago and I am not sure if I am using it proper. First of all, how tight should the blade be on it? I don't know if I had been tightening it too tight before but I seemed to break blades on it on a regular. I don't know if they were too tight maybe? Also on the down feed there is a spring on a rod you tighten to adjust the down feed. Do you just adjust it so the blade won't catch during the cut and stop the saw? Can I remove the spring and rod and install a hydraulic down feed assembly? Or do you need the spring and the hydraulic down feed? I see bigger saws with both, but I guess they are probably twice as heavy. Thanks for the guidance everyone!
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What am I doing wrong? Newbie and a 4X6 saw
- Thread starter Armourer
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Let's see- several things: First, it's hard to overtighten a blade on a 4x6, unless you are a gorilla. The blade should just start making a musical note as you get to the correct tension, like a big guitar string. At the midpoint you would be able to deflect it a small amount say 1/4". The sound it makes would be described as somewhere between the 4th and 5th notes of the "Close Encounters" 5 note riff- maybe closer to the 4th one.
Breaking blades could be either bad blades, incorrect alignment of drive wheels, incorrect adjustment of blade guides, or using a blade that's too coarse (too few tpi) for the material. This last is especially true for non-hydraulic downfeed saws. Also, the guides should be as close together as possible depending on the workpiece you are cutting.
The spring should be adjusted so that the downforce of the saw is only a few pounds. Somewhere between 5 and 8 I think. A hydraulic downfeed works somewhat differently from the spring arrangement; the spring would be removed, usually.
-Mark
ps remember when cutting steel you need to use oil. Aluminum you can usually cut dry
Breaking blades could be either bad blades, incorrect alignment of drive wheels, incorrect adjustment of blade guides, or using a blade that's too coarse (too few tpi) for the material. This last is especially true for non-hydraulic downfeed saws. Also, the guides should be as close together as possible depending on the workpiece you are cutting.
The spring should be adjusted so that the downforce of the saw is only a few pounds. Somewhere between 5 and 8 I think. A hydraulic downfeed works somewhat differently from the spring arrangement; the spring would be removed, usually.
-Mark
ps remember when cutting steel you need to use oil. Aluminum you can usually cut dry
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I'm having really good luck with these blades
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I've had good luck with Starrett and Morse blades and they are not too expensive, I bought them through Zoro. If I was doing a lot of cutting I would get a Lennox blade
HF has some premium blades that reportedly are good- I think they are made by Supercut
-M
HF has some premium blades that reportedly are good- I think they are made by Supercut
-M
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Try a different brand of blade. I also use Starrett and Morse blades. The spring loaded rod for adjusting the down feed is set on mine and I do not change it. My saw is a HF and came with their blade. I broke the blade after 5 minutes of sawing. Hard soldered the blade and it lasted about 20 minutes , the break was not at the hard solder joint. Threw the blade out and bought two Morse blades that each lasted several years. Not sure how many hours but I usually use the saw an average of 15 minutes per day.
I keep the tension fairly tight , about 1/8' pushing in from the middle.
I think the blade is your problem. I lubricate aluminum with either kerosene or WD-40. Steel with plumbers cutting oil , either dark or light.
Brass usually needs no lubrication. Not sure about bronze as I have sawed this infrequently.
mike
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I have a Jet 5X6, which is similar to the 4X6. I suggest you do a tune up on your saw to begin with. I am attaching John Pitkin's tune up guide that will be helpful.
I'll go against the tension thing here but only because my experience has been different. My blade is only tight enough to stay on the wheels and it has been this way for well over 15 years. There has been a controversy about this for many, many years and I decided to test it myself to see what was what. I backed off on the tension and my saw has been accurate, my blades last well beyond 5 years per blade and I have never had the blade move off the wheels so that's my take on it.
I do agree that the blade makes a big difference. I use a Lenox Bi-metal Diemaster II, 10-14 variable tooth blade to cut everything. I don't switch it, even for thin stuff. I just sandwich thin materials between thin plywood and go. So far, this has worked fine for me.
In so far as tension on that spring thingy, I cranked it up to near max when I got the saw and left it there. When I cut thin material or really soft stuff, I support the descending part of the saw with my hand. Otherwise, it just cuts.
You might want to look into a wax stick lubricant for your saw. You just run the stick against your blade for a few seconds and cut. Works for most materials, although I cut brass/bronze and Delrin dry. One stick will likely last you the rest of your life. Works good for drills, taps and nailing in hard wood.
I'll go against the tension thing here but only because my experience has been different. My blade is only tight enough to stay on the wheels and it has been this way for well over 15 years. There has been a controversy about this for many, many years and I decided to test it myself to see what was what. I backed off on the tension and my saw has been accurate, my blades last well beyond 5 years per blade and I have never had the blade move off the wheels so that's my take on it.
I do agree that the blade makes a big difference. I use a Lenox Bi-metal Diemaster II, 10-14 variable tooth blade to cut everything. I don't switch it, even for thin stuff. I just sandwich thin materials between thin plywood and go. So far, this has worked fine for me.
In so far as tension on that spring thingy, I cranked it up to near max when I got the saw and left it there. When I cut thin material or really soft stuff, I support the descending part of the saw with my hand. Otherwise, it just cuts.
You might want to look into a wax stick lubricant for your saw. You just run the stick against your blade for a few seconds and cut. Works for most materials, although I cut brass/bronze and Delrin dry. One stick will likely last you the rest of your life. Works good for drills, taps and nailing in hard wood.
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I wanted to add that, in order to make a musical note, the blade does not need to be bone-crushingly tight. I have made a few experiments with my saw and was able to get good results with a fairly tight blade and also with one that was on the looser side and barely "singing". Nowadays, I stop tightening when I just begin to hear a musical sound. You kind of get a feel for it after awhile. Having the drive wheels in good alignment and dry is important, as well as the guides being carefully adjusted and not pinching the blade too tightly.
-Mark
ps some folks loosen the blade when they are done using the saw. It's probably a good idea, but I don't- I'm too lazy
-Mark
ps some folks loosen the blade when they are done using the saw. It's probably a good idea, but I don't- I'm too lazy
Wow, thanks everyone for the help! I have been using blades from a few different places and the last blade I had in my saw lasted the longest but of course seeing as I bought them from different places I can't remember were I bought the one I had in the saw! 
I broke that one yesterday but I know why now thanks to the forum. The guide bearings for it was too tight and kinda rolled the top edge of the blade over and jammed in a cut then snapped off when I shut the saw off and tried to lift it out of the cut. This time when I put the new blade on, I at least remembered where I bought the new blade so we will see how long this one lasts for...
I broke that one yesterday but I know why now thanks to the forum. The guide bearings for it was too tight and kinda rolled the top edge of the blade over and jammed in a cut then snapped off when I shut the saw off and tried to lift it out of the cut. This time when I put the new blade on, I at least remembered where I bought the new blade so we will see how long this one lasts for...