Welding on an Axle Shaft?

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RonRock

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I'm in progress of repairing the old EzGo Golf Cart that I bought to be used as a yard mule around the acreage. It's an oldie, but a cheapie. Perfect for my needs. So that is an indication of my expectations of the cart. Not a road use vehicle by any means.

I have found that one side of the rear axle axle shaft has had a bearing that must have been bad for years. Chewed up the axle in the bearing surface and seal surface, which I think are likely the same OD. Or should be. So the question is can I weld up the worn area and then turn down the weld surface to get a useful axle shaft? I can weld MIG, TIG, Braze, Arc, pretty much whatever process I would need. Or would I be best off to take it out and have it Flame Welded? Not sure if that is correct name of the process. I once had a shaft done that way, it seems that they put the shaft in a lathe and added powder as it was heated. Seems like that would probably cost too much these days for this unit.

Of course finding a new or better a used axle would be best, but not sure that will happen. After all it's an 81 Golf Cart.

Thoughts on this issue?

I can get pictures tomorrow. But it's just like a car axle shaft only very small. Probably 20 inches long 1 1/4 Dia.
 
Mig or Tig would be fine I think, you don't need to get into fancy flame welding for something like this
Even a smooth stick weld would work probably- 6013 is pretty easy to lay down
It might warp a little- might have to straighten it
 
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Will work fine, would not do an auto axle that way. I had one snap at the weld when I hit a wet spot in a parking lot. Glad it did not snap on I 24 earlier at 75 MPH.
 
Either should be fine, I have done it with both stick and mig, stick seems a little easier to machine, MIG easier to weld. I usually spend a couple minutes fixturing something so I can spin the shaft easily when it is hot. I try to add metal to opposite sides and take my time to let it cool some. Often there is a little iteration, add a bunch of weld, rough machine it, add more weld to the low spots etc.

For some jobs it is easier to clean up the shaft than make a sleeve to get back to original diameter, attach with the permanent threadlocker, cure overnight for max strength and machine to finish diameter. The last sleeve I made was about 0.035" thick, not sure I would try going much thinner than that.
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice. Looks like it is do able. We'll see if it is by me. I do like the sleeve idea. I'll take some measurements before I start welding.

Good help, thanks

If I had the time, this would be a fun project to tackle as building a replacement. Threads to a shoulder and keyway on one end, splines on the other.

I haven't done a splined shaft yet. But pretty sure I could. Eventually. Likely after several tries.
 
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This is done on crankshaft work so easy.

You can use a file for high spots if your weld gets ugly or if it fits in the lathe just use that.

It is low speed and low torque so perfection not needed.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
Where possible, a sleeve was always my preference. Less chance of warping the shaft and more predictable finish machining. The weld can get pretty hard sometimes, depending on what the shaft is made from. Torch annealing is sometimes required.
 
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