Vertical Bandsaws for beginners....

[snowplow]

Hey guys I just picked up my first small vertical bandsaw. I was wondering if I could get a quick run through of the basics. This is a small 14" wood/metal jet unit. I will generally be using if for +/-1/8" steel plate.

What goes into bandsaw blade thickness? Common sense says smaller turns tighter and larger will dissipate a bit more heat just because there is more metal in the blade. Is that all there is to it? So far I am thinking I should use a 3/4" thick (or deep) blade since I will be using it for metal and generally going pretty straight.

Also this is set up with metal blocks instead of roller bearings to support the blade in turns. I know I can make or get a conversion to the roller bearings if need be but I have read that each has it's place. For metal and less heat can I assume roller bearings are the way to go? I have also heard of coolblocks but imagine that is more geared towards wood.

I am much more familiar with liquid cooled horizontal units where blade heat isn't really a factor and roller bearings are standard.

Thanks for the help! :biggrin:

DC

 

[Hawkeye]

If you're running a wood/metal combo saw, I'd assume it has a wide range of available speeds. Be very careful to slow it down to the proper Surface Feet per Minute (SFM) speed for cutting metal. If it is running too fast, your blade will dull in seconds.

I know this because I converted a vertical wood-cutting bandsaw to metal use, but forgot about speed. It got less than 1/16" into a piece of rebar before the teeth were all dull. An appropriate countershaft and a new blade, and I've been using it for my precision or long, straight cuts for some time.

My blade guides are solid brass, but I did put a roller bearing on the back edge of the blade when I first got the saw for wood use.

 

[JohnAspinall]

Hey guys I just picked up my first small vertical bandsaw. I was wondering if I could get a quick run through of the basics. This is a small 14" wood/metal jet unit. I will generally be using if for +/-1/8" steel plate.

What goes into bandsaw blade thickness? Common sense says smaller turns tighter and larger will dissipate a bit more heat just because there is more metal in the blade. Is that all there is to it? So far I am thinking I should use a 3/4" thick (or deep) blade since I will be using it for metal and generally going pretty straight.
...

DC

In addition, a larger blade will let you put more tension on it, without breaking, to stop it deflecting. But for a typical 14" bandsaw, that's a non-issue; the bandsaw jack screw will slip before you can break even a 1/4" blade.

While this guy is primarily a woodworker, let me recommend http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/tension.html as a good read on bandsaw blade tension.

 

[snowplow]

Right on, thanks Mike and John.

I have seen two versions of the rollers

Full meal deal:

Or the more economy version:


Anybody used these?

Are the roller guides standard on larger vertical metal only saws?

 

[Kennyd]

It will probably NOT go slow enough to cut steel, and I assume it has rubber tires on it? This was marketing hype IMHO about being able to cut both wood and metal.
You may do OK with aluminum, but steel will be a challenge, sorry.

 

[jfcayron]

I converted a vertical wood-cutting bandsaw to metal use, but forgot about speed. It got less than 1/16" into a piece of rebar before the teeth were all dull. An appropriate countershaft and a new blade, and I've been using it for my precision or long, straight cuts for some time.

I am about to do the same to my Ryobi wood saw. Any tricks, recommendations, pictures ... ?:scared: :bitingnails:

JF

 

[snowplow]

I dont have the manual for my saw. Does anyone know the slowest speed for the 14" jet wood/metal saws?

Mine is a JBS-14mw just like this

 

[Kennyd]

Here are the specs for the Grizzly version: http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-1-HP-Bandsaw-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0555P

Features:

Deluxe heavy-duty stand
1 HP motor
Upper and lower ball bearing blade guides are standard
All ball bearing construction
4" dust port
Includes one 3/8" blade, fence and miter gauge
2 speeds
Fence scale with magnifying window
Optional Riser block kit (H3051P) available.Specifications:

Cutting capacity/throat: 13-1/2"
Maximum cutting height: 6"
Overall size: 66-1/2"H x 26-3/8"W x 30-1/4"D
Table height above floor: 43-5/16"
Table tilt: 45° right, 10° left
Frame construction: Cast iron
Table construction: Precision ground cast iron
Fence construction: Deluxe extruded aluminum
Wheels: Fully balanced cast aluminum with rubber tires
Motor: 1 HP, TEFC, 110V / 220V single phase, 1725 RPM
Amps: 11@110V / 5.5@220V
Blade speeds: 1500 & 3200 FPM
Blade size: 92-1/2 to 93-1/2" (1/8" to 3/4" wide)
Table size: 14" x 14"
Approximate shipping weight. 198 lbs.

Yours is most likely simular. This style bandsaw is copied by so many different company's its crazy.

I think you'll want to be well below 500 for steel cutting. True metal cutting saws also dont have rubber tires and they can get the blade a lot tighter that a typical woodworking style bandsaw.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Looking at the specs. I see that the speeds are 735, 1470, and 2350 http://www.cpojettools.com/jet-7081...t,pd.html?start=3&cgid=jet-vertical-band-saws

Haven't been able to track down a manual though.

Hope that helps,

-Ron

 

[Hawkeye]

You'll need to be down around 70 - 100 SFM to cut mild steel without destroying your blade. If your specs give you RPM, multiply the wheel diameter (in inches) by the RPM and then by 3.14159, and divide by 12 to get SFM. Or, just divide RPM x diameter by 4 - close enough to the above procedure.