-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
Turning qusestion from newbe
- Thread starter Vince_O
- Start date
Your set-up looks good but you need to support the tail of the work. You need to center drill the stock and use a live center to support the outer end of your work. If you've watched the videos, you're familiar with tool height, angle and speed & feed.
I also suggest searching Youtube for instructional videos by "Tubal Cane (Cain?)". He gives very good instruction and video angles.
I also suggest searching Youtube for instructional videos by "Tubal Cane (Cain?)". He gives very good instruction and video angles.
Vince,
I agree that there is probably too much tool bit extending from the holder. Also as mentioned you need to support the end of the bar with a center in the tail stock.
It looks like the tool bit you have is a threading bit. Have you looked into the various tool bit forms? There is lots of info on the web about tool grinding.
Steve
I agree that there is probably too much tool bit extending from the holder. Also as mentioned you need to support the end of the bar with a center in the tail stock.
It looks like the tool bit you have is a threading bit. Have you looked into the various tool bit forms? There is lots of info on the web about tool grinding.
Steve
Steve
Yes Ive looked into tools and holders. I dont have a clue what im doing or what this "bit" should be used for. No one has really said what it was for and looks much differant than what Im seeing , RH, LH, cut off.
Shawn
Thanks thats what I was wondering, if it looked ok, too far too close.
Rick
I dont have a complete tail stock set up so I know I cant turn something this long. It is the shortest piece I could find for taking pics. More looking at the angle of the bit how the tool holed was / is posinted.
Yes Ive looked into tools and holders. I dont have a clue what im doing or what this "bit" should be used for. No one has really said what it was for and looks much differant than what Im seeing , RH, LH, cut off.
Shawn
Thanks thats what I was wondering, if it looked ok, too far too close.
Rick
I dont have a complete tail stock set up so I know I cant turn something this long. It is the shortest piece I could find for taking pics. More looking at the angle of the bit how the tool holed was / is posinted.
I do not know if this is in the downloads area but it should be of help. Also find one of the How to run a metal lathe books either by Southbend or Atlas.
http://opensourcemachine.org/wp-con...chinist-course-lathe-operations-od1645-ww.pdf
http://opensourcemachine.org/wp-con...chinist-course-lathe-operations-od1645-ww.pdf
gotta add my 2cents, same as others have said about the extended tool holder and tool itself, it will work the way you have it but the results will scare the he&& out of you when the maerial starts whipping around the tool and maybe you. doesn't that round stock slip into the head shaft of the lathe ?
there is a general rule of thumb about "stick-out" of material from the chuck if its not supported. . . . its really not very much. something like three times the diameter of the material stock.
what size is that material ? if its 1 inch, then 3" of stick out would be about the recommended stick out. im sure everyone has made lots of exceptions to that rule but not without more experience.
with the tool you have, (it looks like a 60 degree threading tool) you can angle it the way you have it shown, and actually make a shallow cut. try it. take about .015 as shown on your cross slide and feed slowly from right to left. (after you shorten the stick out of the material)
tubal cain videos are awsome for folks beginning to machine. he does a super job showing how to sharpen tools, for use on/in tool holders just like you have. . . . .called lantern holders. DO check those out. then play around, don't expect to make anything pretty right away. . . . just make chips and little curls. . .change speeds, change how fast you feed the carriage right to left, how deep you can cut with your different tools.
keep your sleeves rolled up and take off your rings. . . then enjoy the new addiction you have just aquired. . . . . .
take pictures like you have, and ask questions. .
there is a general rule of thumb about "stick-out" of material from the chuck if its not supported. . . . its really not very much. something like three times the diameter of the material stock.
what size is that material ? if its 1 inch, then 3" of stick out would be about the recommended stick out. im sure everyone has made lots of exceptions to that rule but not without more experience.
with the tool you have, (it looks like a 60 degree threading tool) you can angle it the way you have it shown, and actually make a shallow cut. try it. take about .015 as shown on your cross slide and feed slowly from right to left. (after you shorten the stick out of the material)
tubal cain videos are awsome for folks beginning to machine. he does a super job showing how to sharpen tools, for use on/in tool holders just like you have. . . . .called lantern holders. DO check those out. then play around, don't expect to make anything pretty right away. . . . just make chips and little curls. . .change speeds, change how fast you feed the carriage right to left, how deep you can cut with your different tools.
keep your sleeves rolled up and take off your rings. . . then enjoy the new addiction you have just aquired. . . . . .
take pictures like you have, and ask questions. .
BTW: that's a nice looking lathe to learn on. I still have my first: Atlas 12", and I still use it regularly after 28 years. It's good that you're asking questions now. It will probably save you a few headaches and broken bits.
I do have that manual downloaded. I thought I had the universal cutter tubalcain talks about.
David
The piece that is in there is 5/8 its a drive shaft I took out of one of my tractors. The biggest thing I need to do right off is make the pins for my loader project for a tractor. Also Im a firm beliver that theres no dumb question. I wish I had a dollar for every time I posted a pic of a carb float adjusted on the tractor forum. I will keep my sleves up and belive me Ill ask!
Rick
Thanks I paid 50 bucks for it! Oh and how clear is the red mud in Ga, its real read here in Sc! :rofl:
David
The piece that is in there is 5/8 its a drive shaft I took out of one of my tractors. The biggest thing I need to do right off is make the pins for my loader project for a tractor. Also Im a firm beliver that theres no dumb question. I wish I had a dollar for every time I posted a pic of a carb float adjusted on the tractor forum. I will keep my sleves up and belive me Ill ask!
Rick
Thanks I paid 50 bucks for it! Oh and how clear is the red mud in Ga, its real read here in Sc! :rofl:
You could have trouble with that drive shaft, since it is probably still hardened. A 5/8" piece of machine steel with HSS tooling would normally be turned around 1000 RPM, while annealed tool steel would be closer to 380 RPM.
Your shaft is probably harder than annealed tool steel. Try turning it around 250 RPM and see if it will cut. It may dull the cutter quickly. If it does, sharpen it and turn the speed down to 100 and try again. If the shaft can't be turned at its present hardness, you will have to anneal it.
Cut about a 4" piece and place it in a hot fire until the whole thing is cherry red. All shadows on the surface must be gone. Then fish the piece out into the ashes and leave it there until cold. Overnight may be necessary. Slow cooling is the key. After that, you can machine it at 380 RPM.
Your shaft is probably harder than annealed tool steel. Try turning it around 250 RPM and see if it will cut. It may dull the cutter quickly. If it does, sharpen it and turn the speed down to 100 and try again. If the shaft can't be turned at its present hardness, you will have to anneal it.
Cut about a 4" piece and place it in a hot fire until the whole thing is cherry red. All shadows on the surface must be gone. Then fish the piece out into the ashes and leave it there until cold. Overnight may be necessary. Slow cooling is the key. After that, you can machine it at 380 RPM.
Hi Vince,
The thread on annealing is great. I have never tried it but may have to soon. I run a file across the work piece to determine if the HSS bit will cut it. If the file cuts the material so will a HSS bit, if not annealing will be required or possibly using carbide bits. I cut half the heads off grade 8 bolts using my carbide tools, worked real well. I went many years using only HSS tool bits and have just begun to try carbide tools. Take your time getting used to your lathe, keep it lubricated.
You are going to hear various ideas as time goes on. I have been taught to use 2 to 2.5 times the diameter of the work for extending work out of the chuck, otherwise support it as has been mentioned. I think this may be a local thing, I am not trying to argue about it at all.
Not knowing the extent of your support tools I would suggest a dial micrometer or a regular micrometer, you will find a wide price range in tools, my budget won't support the higher dollar stuff but do know it is generally quality stuff. If you watch the catalogs such as Travers and Enco you will get an idea about the prices. If handeled with care most will last a long time .
Another tool I would recommend is a tool bit grinding gage, it looks something like a spear poimt. It has the angle to use as a template for grinding a thread cutting point. They usually have thread gages along the edges and a notch or two to assist in getting the tool square to the project. They don't cost too much.
Have fun and good luck
Ray
The thread on annealing is great. I have never tried it but may have to soon. I run a file across the work piece to determine if the HSS bit will cut it. If the file cuts the material so will a HSS bit, if not annealing will be required or possibly using carbide bits. I cut half the heads off grade 8 bolts using my carbide tools, worked real well. I went many years using only HSS tool bits and have just begun to try carbide tools. Take your time getting used to your lathe, keep it lubricated.
You are going to hear various ideas as time goes on. I have been taught to use 2 to 2.5 times the diameter of the work for extending work out of the chuck, otherwise support it as has been mentioned. I think this may be a local thing, I am not trying to argue about it at all.
Not knowing the extent of your support tools I would suggest a dial micrometer or a regular micrometer, you will find a wide price range in tools, my budget won't support the higher dollar stuff but do know it is generally quality stuff. If you watch the catalogs such as Travers and Enco you will get an idea about the prices. If handeled with care most will last a long time .
Another tool I would recommend is a tool bit grinding gage, it looks something like a spear poimt. It has the angle to use as a template for grinding a thread cutting point. They usually have thread gages along the edges and a notch or two to assist in getting the tool square to the project. They don't cost too much.
Have fun and good luck
Ray