Traming My Lms 3990

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Brentb1

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I bought this mill new a few weeks ago, prior to this mill I have never done any maching before. I was having a problem with my finish having swirl marks but figured it was my lack of skill. I watched the video, Traming my mill and followed the same procedure. I found my mill to be 20 thou off. So my question is 1. is there a different way to know for sure if it is off and not an error on my part? 2. I know that if it is off I need to shim one side, what do I use to shim it; are there specific shims or can I use a 10 thou feeler gauge as a shim or washer?
 
The finish will always have tooling marks with a mill, removing them is a second operation. Actually having a bit of tilt in the X axis when fly cutting/face milling improves the finish.
 
What method did you use to measure the "off"? Try another one, and see if the numbers agree!

I like the cylindrical square, myself.

Here's a video, by Keith Rucker, showing his methods of tramming. The cylinder square is at about 9:30.

 
That does look like a good method the problem is, I don't have a cylindrical square. I have square, dial calipers, and magnetic base
 
I ended up shimming one side with a 10 thou feeler gauge, now I am within 2 thou. Are there a specific type of shim to use, if so would I buy them from a place like LMS?
 
Brent -- I've not shimmed a mill specifically, but for other machine tools I've found lots of useful shim stock from various common items: aluminum cans, flashing pieces from leftover building repairs, brass weatherstripping scraps, pallet strapping, etc., the list goes on. If you've got a mic or even just a half-decent caliper check out some of those things before you spring for some dedicated shims. Sure, the household items aren't ground or rolled to a super-consistent thickness, but they're easily doable for the home shop. Mix and match to stack up to what thicknesses you want and go from there. Just my thinkin'...

-frank
 
I totally know what you mean, I have used things like that in projects before; I wasn't sure how feasible it would be to use something that is not exact. I was worried that it may cause issues on a precision machine but that why I was asking as I have 0 experience with mills. I am probably way over thinking it
 
Try the can and stuff like that . If tou get your problem solved then order real shim stock.
 
I am wondering can leaving a milling vise on the mill cause problems? For example, will it cause warpage or anything like that?
 
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