Tooling identification & verification needed

[spartan2381]

Can anyone verify that I have label the below tooling correctly along with its function? Can any of the other tooling be used for threading besides the RH threading (second from the left) tool?




Can anyone tell me they type of tooling below (left to right? This is the Grizzly H5687 set but they don't tell what each one is.

 

[mmcmdl]

The last 5 tools will cut and face either or . 1 is for grooving or cut off , 2 is for threading .

 

[spartan2381]

The last 5 tools will cut and face either or . 1 is for grooving or cut off , 2 is for threading .

Thank you. For the top 7 (black) I'm I correct on those and besides the threading tool can I use the profiling, RH facing/turning to cut threads?

 

[SLK001]

Thank you. For the top 7 (black) I'm I correct on those and besides the threading tool can I use the profiling, RH facing/turning to cut threads?

A threading tool has a specific profile - mostly 60º included angle. If any of the other tools have the required profile, then they can also be used for threading. Stick your threading gauge on the tools and check to see if they are 60º.

 

[spartan2381]

A threading tool has a specific profile - mostly 60º included angle. If any of the other tools have the required profile, then they can also be used for threading. Stick your threading gauge on the tools and check to see if they are 60º.

That was what I thought. I'll use my 60 degree fishtail to check the angle of the bit. Thanks guys!

 

[macardoso]

The 7 piece indexable kit (first pic) goes as follows:

Grooving/Cut-off, threading, LH turning/facing (DCMT), Neutral (DCMT), RH turning/facing (DCMT), RH turning/facing (CCMT), RH turning facing (WCMT).

DCMT, CCMT, and WCMT can all take turning and facing cuts (except the neutral DCMT tool).

The DCMT is a more narrow tool which exerts less cutting pressure and more accurate cuts, the downside is it is a weaker insert. The WCMT is a stronger insert, but exerts more cutting pressure leading to more tool and part deflection. The CCMT is somewhere in between.

I would take a finish cut with a VCMT (not in the kit) or a DCMT. Medium or all purpose cutting with the CCMT, and roughing with the WCMT.

 

[spartan2381]

The 7 piece indexable kit (first pic) goes as follows:

Grooving/Cut-off, threading, LH turning/facing (DCMT), Neutral (DCMT), RH turning/facing (DCMT), RH turning/facing (CCMT), RH turning facing (WCMT).

DCMT, CCMT, and WCMT can all take turning and facing cuts (except the neutral DCMT tool).

The DCMT is a more narrow tool which exerts less cutting pressure and more accurate cuts, the downside is it is a weaker insert. The WCMT is a stronger insert, but exerts more cutting pressure leading to more tool and part deflection. The CCMT is somewhere in between.

I would take a finish cut with a VCMT (not in the kit) or a DCMT. Medium or all purpose cutting with the CCMT, and roughing with the WCMT.

Thank you, this is super helpful. I'm new to this and the tooling / insert options are confusing and trying to decipher what is what.

 

[macardoso]

Basic rules (in my opinion, and lots of exceptions):

• Positive rake tools for lathes 12" or less, negative rake tools can be used on 13" and up.
• Narrow inserts (Vxxx, Dxxx, Cxxx) for finishing or light turning. Cuts easily, low cutting pressure
• Wider inserts (Cxxx, Wxxx, Rxxx, Sxxx) for roughing and medium turning. Stronger, but higher cutting pressure
• Smaller nose radius gives lower cutting pressure. Fine finishing requires very small nose radius. Also important for precision diameters and bores.
• Larger nose radius is stronger, better for roughing.
• When using inserts, you can turn light and slow, but you won't properly break chips without going at least the depth of the nose radius.
• Bigger inserts (in terms of included circle size) aren't usually helpful to hobbyists. A 12" lathe can barely push even some of the smallest inserts to their limit. You're just paying for extra unused carbide.
• IMO, the CCMT32.50 insert is the most versatile in the home shop. You'll likely not need too many other inserts to get started with.
• Parting tools are the only tool I still use HSS for. It is a high force process and can easily break inflexible carbide tools.
• The xxGT or xxGX insert (available in any insert shape) is a ground insert with a razor sharp edge for non-ferrous materials. I also use it often in steels and stainless for precision finishing. It cuts with the least cutting pressure of any insert tool and feels similar to HSS. Lasts forever in aluminum, but only OK tool life in steels. Perfect for getting bearing fits and shaving a tenth or two off a diameter. (Example)
• Inserts carry both imperial and metric designations. CCMT32.52 is the same thing as CCMT09T0304 <- metric
• Most people decide they don't like carbide after trying the basic inserts that come with the cheap kits. Experiment with different grades, chipbreakers, nose radii, etc. Aliexpress has lots of options for <$1 per insert. If you do fine/small work, try a VCGT insert (Example). Inserts can be rather application specific and when you find one that works well, it will be worth it.
• Unless you do production or a lot of cast iron, you'll never wear out an insert. It will almost always die to chipping it or jerking the hand wheel a bit too hard. Don't spend a ton of money on an insert unless you need to. The cheap stuff works fine for the hobby guys.
• High end inserts (Sandvik, Iscar, Kennametal) are worlds better than the cheap imports. Makes a ton of sense for production work. They also give you the cutting data for how the inserts work best. The stated range of SFM and chipload is typically based on cutting hard enough to get the chipbreaker to work properly. Data is always generated on massively rigid CNC machines and often doesn't scale down to smaller lathes correctly.

 

[spartan2381]

Basic rules (in my opinion, and lots of exceptions):

• Positive rake tools for lathes 12" or less, negative rake tools can be used on 13" and up.
• Narrow inserts (Vxxx, Dxxx, Cxxx) for finishing or light turning. Cuts easily, low cutting pressure
• Wider inserts (Cxxx, Wxxx, Rxxx, Sxxx) for roughing and medium turning. Stronger, but higher cutting pressure
• Smaller nose radius gives lower cutting pressure. Fine finishing requires very small nose radius. Also important for precision diameters and bores.
• Larger nose radius is stronger, better for roughing.
• When using inserts, you can turn light and slow, but you won't properly break chips without going at least the depth of the nose radius.
• Bigger inserts (in terms of included circle size) aren't usually helpful to hobbyists. A 12" lathe can barely push even some of the smallest inserts to their limit. You're just paying for extra unused carbide.
• IMO, the CCMT32.50 insert is the most versatile in the home shop. You'll likely not need too many other inserts to get started with.
• Parting tools are the only tool I still use HSS for. It is a high force process and can easily break inflexible carbide tools.
• The xxGT or xxGX insert (available in any insert shape) is a ground insert with a razor sharp edge for non-ferrous materials. I also use it often in steels and stainless for precision finishing. It cuts with the least cutting pressure of any insert tool and feels similar to HSS. Lasts forever in aluminum, but only OK tool life in steels. Perfect for getting bearing fits and shaving a tenth or two off a diameter. (Example)
• Inserts carry both imperial and metric designations. CCMT32.52 is the same thing as CCMT09T0304 <- metric
• Most people decide they don't like carbide after trying the basic inserts that come with the cheap kits. Experiment with different grades, chipbreakers, nose radii, etc. Aliexpress has lots of options for <$1 per insert. If you do fine/small work, try a VCGT insert (Example). Inserts can be rather application specific and when you find one that works well, it will be worth it.
• Unless you do production or a lot of cast iron, you'll never wear out an insert. It will almost always die to chipping it or jerking the hand wheel a bit too hard. Don't spend a ton of money on an insert unless you need to. The cheap stuff works fine for the hobby guys.
• High end inserts (Sandvik, Iscar, Kennametal) are worlds better than the cheap imports. Makes a ton of sense for production work. They also give you the cutting data for how the inserts work best. The stated range of SFM and chipload is typically based on cutting hard enough to get the chipbreaker to work properly. Data is always generated on massively rigid CNC machines and often doesn't scale down to smaller lathes correctly.

I just printed this out and put up on wall by my lathe. Really good pointers and guidelines. Thanks!

 

[spartan2381]

I have been buying tooling from https://www.shars.com, where are ya'll buying quality tooling from?