Would a novice such as myself be able to machine tool steel easily or is there a learning curve? I have machined cold rolled,aluminum,brass,12L14,etc. I know that tool steel would require different speeds,cutters,etc.Shoul I avoid it altogether or maybe try it?
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tool steel or not?
- Thread starter knifer-one
- Start date
The real answer is dependent on what the end product you want is. Does it need to be tool steel? Then go right ahead. it's not much different from what you already have cut. You said it.......cutters (not so much) and feeds and speeds. The other side of the question is working it after heat treatment, when it is hard(er). At some point, the normal cutting methods turn somewhat more expensive and complicated. Think grinding and EDM. But if you can machine the part complete, then heat treat....you can make stuff that is hardened.
Be careful how fast you machine hardenable tool steel. I have even suddenly had W1 go hard under the file just from filing it too rapidly. Just a surface hardening,but enough to mess up your file teeth. Similarly,milling cutters,or lathe tools can suddenly have their edges broken or rounded over by machining tool steels at too high an RPM,or feed.
If you do it right,certainly any tool steel can be machined. Otherwise,how would you make anything out of it? There are many types of tool steels. You need to look up recommended cutting speeds.
If you do it right,certainly any tool steel can be machined. Otherwise,how would you make anything out of it? There are many types of tool steels. You need to look up recommended cutting speeds.
I found some tool steel when I found my Kurt vise at the scrap yard, I gathered up some until I spotted the vise. Most had been ground/milled into die tooling, one piece was raw stock and marked A2. I got most of it for lathe tooling a couple pieces will lend itself nicely to parting tools.
Everything has a learning curve. I say go for it... if your successful just think of the things you might go on to build!!!
if you destroy more than you fix. then you can walk away. my problem is I keep coming back! :lmao::lmao:
Sam
There are lots of tool steels, some are tougher than others. In general the cheaper the tool steel (by grade) the harder it is to machine (mostly because the tougher stuff is air hardening and work hardens because it has a high chrome content). So
W1 < O1 < A2 < D2
I have done a lot of stuff with W1. It machines pretty well on my little lathe (7x14 import) if you don't try to take too large a cut. It's also easy to harden, but can distort more than the more expensive types because the water quench is so intense. O1 is a little more expensive, still common, and still easy to machine. I have been playing with some D2 lately, and you really have to take a running start at it.
I would say, pick up some W1 or O1 if you have the need for a hardenable steel, it's really not that bad to machine. Watch the chips though, they are wicked sharp (and hot as ... you know).
W1 < O1 < A2 < D2
I have done a lot of stuff with W1. It machines pretty well on my little lathe (7x14 import) if you don't try to take too large a cut. It's also easy to harden, but can distort more than the more expensive types because the water quench is so intense. O1 is a little more expensive, still common, and still easy to machine. I have been playing with some D2 lately, and you really have to take a running start at it.
I would say, pick up some W1 or O1 if you have the need for a hardenable steel, it's really not that bad to machine. Watch the chips though, they are wicked sharp (and hot as ... you know).
Thanks for the info. Looks like I might give some w1 a try.Maybe a straight shank center just to get the hang of it. Who knows,maybe a morse-tapered center. Or pin punches?
Lots of possibilities now.
Lots of possibilities now.
