- Joined
- Dec 18, 2013
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- 2,349
Well I just finished my first stainless TIG welding project and thought I would document what I learned.
Project #1 Description - I'm making a mobile stand similar to the roll around stands they use for hanging IV's in a hospital. Instead I'll be attaching the Accu-Lube system on this stand plus an air manifold with 3 air drops for the Accu-Lube, Maxi Torque-Right PDB, and hose to blow stuff off.
Can you spot my welding design mistake in this photo?
Here the base has been drilled for the casters, again can you spot the welding design mistake?
Here I reconfigured my BuildPro welding table for this job extending the center plate out, you will see why shortly.
On this project I'm paying a LOT more attention to tack welds, more tacks beefier tacks. I did these inside corner tacks in order, did all the middle tack welds, then the bottom, then the top, avoiding for heat soak. The strategy was to keep things flat and square.
Now you can see why I reconfigured the welding table, so I could rotate the stand during welding, this worked out nicely.
With everything well tacked I began running beads. This stand will see no stress or weight really its ridiculously overkill in terms of material thickness and size. I felt there was no need to weld into the corners and go looking for trouble.
The great thing about TIG is you can weld right over top of your tacks and you can't really tell they were ever there.
This doesn't look too bad and on this bead my glove stuck and I buried the tungsten into the puddle after only about 3/4 inch from the right edge. I just hit it with the wire brush, popped in a new tungsten and finished the weld.
Here it is completed! So the welding design flaw...if you weld something in the middle, a tube, flat stock, whatever its going to warp towards the heat pretty much no matter what you do. To save time I cut 2 short legs for the base then used a 24 inch long solid piece for the other two legs.
I ended up having to run welds in the middle of that 24 inch piece, first it bowed one direction towards the heat during tack welds and then back the other direction when I was running full beads. I think a better design would have been to cut 4 short feet and weld those to the end of the vertical post that way all welds would have been on the ends of the tubing. My 2 short feet came out nice and flat without much effort.
Project #1 Description - I'm making a mobile stand similar to the roll around stands they use for hanging IV's in a hospital. Instead I'll be attaching the Accu-Lube system on this stand plus an air manifold with 3 air drops for the Accu-Lube, Maxi Torque-Right PDB, and hose to blow stuff off.
Can you spot my welding design mistake in this photo?
Here the base has been drilled for the casters, again can you spot the welding design mistake?
Here I reconfigured my BuildPro welding table for this job extending the center plate out, you will see why shortly.
On this project I'm paying a LOT more attention to tack welds, more tacks beefier tacks. I did these inside corner tacks in order, did all the middle tack welds, then the bottom, then the top, avoiding for heat soak. The strategy was to keep things flat and square.
Now you can see why I reconfigured the welding table, so I could rotate the stand during welding, this worked out nicely.
With everything well tacked I began running beads. This stand will see no stress or weight really its ridiculously overkill in terms of material thickness and size. I felt there was no need to weld into the corners and go looking for trouble.
The great thing about TIG is you can weld right over top of your tacks and you can't really tell they were ever there.
This doesn't look too bad and on this bead my glove stuck and I buried the tungsten into the puddle after only about 3/4 inch from the right edge. I just hit it with the wire brush, popped in a new tungsten and finished the weld.
Here it is completed! So the welding design flaw...if you weld something in the middle, a tube, flat stock, whatever its going to warp towards the heat pretty much no matter what you do. To save time I cut 2 short legs for the base then used a 24 inch long solid piece for the other two legs.
I ended up having to run welds in the middle of that 24 inch piece, first it bowed one direction towards the heat during tack welds and then back the other direction when I was running full beads. I think a better design would have been to cut 4 short feet and weld those to the end of the vertical post that way all welds would have been on the ends of the tubing. My 2 short feet came out nice and flat without much effort.
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