Ok guys I have a lincoln idealarc tig 300/300 machine. I would like to get a trigger or slider for the torch versus the foot control.....which do you folks recommend?
I don't own one (yet) but the reviews of the TIG Button are almost universally positive. It's a button you put on the torch which lets you initiate/stop the arc and vary the amperage by pressure...pretty much just like a pedal. I'll put a link below...you'd have to see if they make one for your machine.
Barring that, I've tried the sliders, the kind with two wheels and a continuous track you rotate using your whole hand, and the kind with a side-to-side wheel sometimes called an east/west control. I liked the side-to-side wheel the best as it let me keep my hand in the same position from start to finish. You just roll it with your thumb to stop/start and increase/decrease amperage.
Yep, but so does the price. I'd have to save quite awhile to get one of those and my social security will be awfully small for this year.....I haven't had a nice steak in years
If you happen to have a CK 9/20 size torch (or any series 2 size IIRC): I have a linear remote amp control torch body (link) if you want to give this style a try. You'd just have to obtain & swap the plug for your Lincoln.
I personally wasn't a fan of this style though so I couldn't recommend. But yours to try if you can use it.
Another satisfied Tig Button user here, I love it. I recently screwed up and damaged the little button, and it took a few weeks to get a replacement ( fortunately, spare buttons are pretty cheap; the majority of the expense is in the control box that's mounted safely on the welding machine ). Couldn't wait to put the foot pedal away and go back to the button!
Ok guys I have a lincoln idealarc tig 300/300 machine. I would like to get a trigger or slider for the torch versus the foot control.....which do you folks recommend?
I do know the early models used wire wound 1K OHM resistors for the foot pedals starting around 1958.
By early 1970's they switched from a Boost Buck inductor based control of the reactor core to a SCR control which takes a circuit board and IIANM changed the variable resistor value to 10K ohms (but not positive).
These are the round corner TIG 300's.
Once they went to the Square corners and reduced the welders size, NOT sure if they changed the remote resistance again or not. You may want to send an email to Lincoln and provide them with your actual model number and ask for compatible remote controls.
you could also measure the resistance of the foot pedal that you already have.
My Everlast came with a finger control button, but it is just an on or off switch. You have to set the amperage at the machine. It works pretty good on steel but on aluminum once piece started heating up my amperage was set to high. For small quick jobs it works great.
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